
It was a chilly night, but the morning sun soon had all the frost melted and our tent dripping


So no need for the car, we walked through the farm and 5 minutes along the road took us into the village.

We were soon on the track beyond, right up past the campsite and into the open glen beyond. It was sunny, but there was a fine cool breeze so we could keep up a decent pace until the path dropped down tho the river which was fairly idyllic and mesmorising.


We came out of a clump of trees to find ourselves in the familiarly named Langstrath. We got our first views of the crag we were aiming for, although it turned out it was the buttress behind.

Blackmoss pot was a lovely little run of water, again I struggled to tear myself away back to the path. Lovely wee spot.


We passed through a field of sheep, where a path slanted up the hillside, getting steep and brutal to facilitate passing through a gate onto the open hillside.


There were a large party of folk just below the crags with beer and deckchairs, and we passed them by following the path. It didn't go anywhere fun though, so we went back a bit and headed straight up, first over big boulders, and then fine cleaner rock above



When we got to the top, the way ahead looked mighty inviting - the compacted volcanic ash rock really grippy and dry.

The way up is on the right, a complicated array of cracks leads up to a very tricky slightly outward sloping corner. I made the first move, but didn't like it, so followed a ledge left a bit to an easier groove while Dougie showed me how it was done


There was then an easier section at a nice angle. We noticed that there were lots of weird circles in the rock up this buttress.


Another grassy terrace took us up to a big slanting groove that was easier than it looked.

The next craggy bit looked awful steep, but as you got closer you could see how many holds there were - looked amazing! and it was - so exhilarating climbing something so big and steep



And when we got to the top of that bit, we could see that we still weren't finished


When we got closer though, we realised the route was a bit lacklustre here, so we went round to the right where a variety of ribs led back to the crest. They looked a bit steep but on closer inspection had enough holds for a really fun pitch.







A few short walls with many opportunities led up to the finale which was sustained but easy peasy in comparison to what had come before


After reaching the top, we realised that the ridge was rather lumpy and undulating. We saw a rocky tor not far away that looked like fun, so we went over for a look.

Think it was Rothswaite fell, a lovely little scramble can be had up to the top.


We consulted the book, and decided on descending the other side of the ridge to visit Attic Cave and Dove Nest crag. It was a very interesting descent down a series of ledges - bum slides and down scrambles a plenty, but eventually we found a burn which we followed down steeply. We could see that our crag had climbers with ropes on it - surely it wasn't that bad?


We descended to the ledge start point, having a squeeze under a boulder which I found on my return to be much easier just to climb over


There is a chokstone bit that is very slippery and I couldn't do it, but Dougie got up to the balcony and said there wasn't really anything worth seeing so I didn't try as hard as I might.
We retraced our steps back to the start of the ledge, and this time headed straight up.

A couple of steep and slightly vegetated pitches saw us up to a big crack with a massive flake of rock jammed into it. The climber guy was still there belaying for his kids, and we had to wait until they finished before we could pass under his ropes. This was the crux by the looks of it, a very exosed step from the flake onto a very slanty ledge, with no visible handholds




After that there were a few good walls, the moss on the rocks tinder dry so turned to powder under your soles. At the top, we hunkered down behind some rocks for lunch.

Dougie had thought we would just be going down now, but I wanted to go up the hill, so we set off toward it. It looked further than the map would suggest. I climbed the slabby buttress that we had descended earlier. I tried to traverse it but couldn't find a way off the other side so ended up being forced up the way


Spot the Seana on the slabby buttress
We met up in the col, and the mood was rather sombre for the trudge. plenty of crags about, but Dougie had lost his mojo - wasn't happy about being dragged up an 'extra' hill, and I felt bad for dragging him. We really should talk about routes before we go so we know what we are doing.

I reached the top, then saw Dougie at a cairn further on. By the time I got to that cairn, Dougie was away over at another cairn, then another appeared - Just how many summits does it have?

There then followed an uneventual wander down the ridge, over the burn and back round to the campsite. Saw when we got back we were 4 hours moving 4 hours stopped on the GPS - typical sunny day for us!

Dove nest is the insignificant looking crag on the left with Glaramara

A rather warmer night was very pleasant in the campsite, apart from the resident woodpecker giving me frights constantly.. Sunday morning came and was a relaxed affair, we consulted the book and set our sights on a wee crag just down the road with a curious name Nitting Haws.
Managed to get in the last space at Grange which was fortuitous, and headed through the village following signs for the camp site which was only a wee way along. We took a right down a path into the main camping field, where a recce round the back of the yurts found the gate onto the open hillside. The path straight up to the first rocks was as brutal as usual, but it really wasn't far.

The scrambling is just easy to start with, no need for hands really, but the second band got more interesting.

There are then easy slabs that lead up to the first major obstacle.

The little scramble up the first rib was easy enough, then a path led up to a face which looked formidable. The book said to squeeze round a holly on a ledge, but there were quite a few hollies in the area, all of which seemed to be growing on ledges..



There was then a few little easy bits and some undulations leading to the slightly dodgy looking crags above, referred to as the 'Juniper jungle'.



After a wee stop to enjoy views and sunshine we set off. You start on the far left on the only clean rib available, and it was the start of something truly brilliant - way better than expected. The scrambling was normal, but the foliage gave a completely different atmosphere, the canopy either side of the arete meaning some holds had to be looked for. When the arete petered out we headed right, across a wee boulderfield and under some bushes to the next buttress, which culminated on a very steep round slab, with only one crack that made up the very exposed route into the juniper jungle. The way ahead was obvious though, a path developing which led to a variety of hidden craggy bits, and eventually up a good run to a grassy terrace with an overhanging wall in front. Our route was to the right behind a huge holly tree. There was a good groove which looked vegetated from below, but was actually rocker and more challenging than it looked. A path then led to the last difficulty, then easier scrambling led all the way to the top.



We went down into a hollow for lunch, feeling exhilarated - what a fun route. I'll definately remember this one to come back to. Something completely different.


It was then just a matter of getting down. There is a descent path, but it is as steep and loose as the worst that Skye or the Dolomites have to offer


Its always good to descend right next to your ascent route so you can gaze back up and relive all the fun as you go.

Back at the car, there was time for a tea and ice cream in the local cafe before home.

Another cracking weekend in the run of good fortune. Will it last till long weekend easter? Probably not
