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The Inn Pinn on Sunday had been a fixture for a while. However, with hours at work changing over it was more recently that I was able to sneak a free Friday off. It had been a long week and as usual there was more stuff to organise than I had time for. Late Thursday night I finally had things ready, set an alarm for 5 and somehow it still took me over an hour to leave
Possibly due to my later than planned start I managed to get stuck behind every conceivable obstacle from lorries and caravans to a traffic jam caused by ducks in the road and even a temperamental set of traffic lights at Kyle of Lochalsh
I did see an old looking plane fly very low down Loch Duich and along Glen Shiel which certainly took me by surprise
But after a couple of stops to determine the best shot...
I was over the sea to Skye, and the sun was shining!
Friday was looking to be the best day of the weekend, so I had thought to have a wee solo exploration of an "easier" summit on the Cuillin ridge as a warm up for the main event. I stopped in Broadford for supplies before heading towards Sligachan where I planned to walk from.
However...I stopped for this photo, and looking at the map to work out what it was I was totally seduced by it.
Boots were donned, and I was off, walking past all the tourists in flip flops stopping for photos of the waterfall.
Friday 19th MayGarbh Bheinn & Belig
5 hours 20 mins
10.7km
1177m ascent
Initially there was something of a path which I was able to follow. It was quite boggy and had several different variants of it. I worked my way to the crest of the ridge to discover a much better path which I was able to follow up to the top of Druim Eadar Da Choire.
Looking back down Loch Ainort
Ahead to Garbh Bheinn
The sun was shining and it was hot work. In places the wind made itself known but it was a fairly welcome breeze so long as I held onto my hat.
A glimpse of the biggies
Camasunary
The Deargs & Glamaig
The final pull up to Garbh Bheinn looked fairly tough; rocky, scrambly and steep. It looked awesome.
Garbh Bheinn
There was nothing difficult and obstacles were easily avoidable but I found myself scrambling over things just for fun. With a wee introductory rock climbing and the Cobbler recently I feel like my scrambling confidence has grown. Which was probably a good thing before Sunday
Once up the steep section it was a narrow walk (or scramble if desired) to the summit. Just as I approached I met a guy on his way down who didn't seem very impressed with his ascent route (which was about to become my descent
)
At the summit I was able to stop and properly take in the views. And what a view it was - the Cuillin ridge was clear and I could see for miles in every direction.
Rum
Bla Bheinn
Mighty Cuillin Ridge
My mind was completely blown. I sat down and had a sandwich and enjoyed soaking up the views and the sun. It was pretty warm as Bla Bheinn seemed to be a pretty decent wind shelter
Marsco & the Red Cuillin
Loch Ainort & Raasay
Belig & Beinn na Caillich horseshoe
Kyle of Lochalsh & the bridge
Towards Applecross
Marsco & Red Cuillin
The Inn Pinn
Rum
I must have sat there for a good half hour when suddenly a dog appeared, taking me by surprise, followed by its two people. I had to readjust my lounging so they could actually get to the summit
but they headed off quickly and I figured I ought to get moving shortly after that.
The initial descent is steep and scrambly and there are a few big drops. I enjoyed myself climbing over the worst bits (or should that be the best bits?) but although there were a few slightly exposed moments there was nothing difficult. Just as I slipped and slid my way down a bit of scree coming to a stop against a big rock I looked up and saw what I'm convinced was a golden eagle. I wasn't quick enough with the camera to catch it flying underneath me but managed to snap it as it flew higher, circling off towards Bla Bheinn.
I overtook the couple with a dog and made my way down the ridge. After the initial scramble it became easier and soon turned into scree. At least there was something of a path, zig zagging it's way down. Towards the bottom of the scree I saw a couple of a people making their way up a bit further over; I gave them a wave and as they seemed friendly I shouted that I was on a path. They were pleased at this news and made their way over so we had a chat for a while before going our separate ways.
Ahead, Belig looked quite big and steep (although not as bad as what I'd just come down
) Off I went; there was plenty of slippery scree but some nice big rocks to hold onto and even a bit of optional scrambling. Towards the top I met with the dry stone dyke and managed to dislodge a large rock which collided with my ankle. Fortunately it was a slow collision resulting in nothing worse than a few choice words and bruise. But a timely reminder to be careful
At the top the views were of course wonderful and I sat down to enjoy them. Again the summit was relatively sheltered and I was able to sit for a while before starting to get chilly.
Glamaig
Red Cuillin
The massif
Loch Ainort
As I looked back to the imposing Garbh Bheinn I realised it was my 3rd Garbh Bheinn in a month
Just as I was leaving the dog arrived; I gave the couple a wee wave as I could see them approaching and left them to enjoy the summit.
From here I continued down the ridge on a feint path before cutting off left down steep scree. This wasn't my favourite part of the walk but at least lost height quickly
Once on more stable ground I got a case of Straight Line Syndrome and headed towards the car, managing to cross a river without incident and made it almost all the way to the road when I went nearly knee deep in a bog
Thankful for gaiters I washed myself off in a stream before the short walk along the road back to the car.
Looking back – chuffed!
Glamaig
3 hours 17 mins
6.68km
754m ascent
It had been a wonderful afternoon and I was keen to find a good spot to camp and enjoy the evening. I may have a slightly different idea of "enjoy" to other people as I suddenly had a thought...initially I was looking at a wee hill Meall a’ Mhaoil to have a wander up and pitch on, but then I got delusions of grandeur. So after a quick call to the weatherman, trying to attach all my camping gear to a much too small rucksack and a conversation with my two pals from earlier who saw me and stopped to say hi I was heading for Glamaig. Now Glamaig and I had some unfinished business from January so it seemed like as good a time as any to make amends
I followed the burn on what was sometimes a vague path and sometimes just my nose up to the bealach. It was tough, I was tired and I was carrying a lot of extra weight. But eventually I made it. What followed was worse; steep scree. I was slipping and sliding all over the place and it felt never ending.
Had to stop for a photo…
But eventually it was over and I was there. The views were awesome. I got the tent up quickly and set about taking some photos.
Down the ridge of Glamaig
Towards Bracadale
Sun and cloud
Towards the Storr
Mist and tent
It was then time to get dinner on and before long I was sitting on Glamaig’s cairn eating beans and burgers out of a packet with my fingers and stirring hot chocolate with a tent peg. Not because I'm crazy but because I'd forgotten my spoon
There was enough of a breeze to make it pretty chilly. The hot food and drink helped but there was plenty of jumping about before I retreated to my tent to enjoy the views from there.
Rassay
Storr
Fading light on the ridge
Outer Hebrides
As I snuggled into my warm cosy cocoon the wind picked up and there were smatterings of rain, but I'd had a wonderful evening and even if the weather apocalypse arrived before I got down it was still totally worth it!
I awoke to the patter of raindrops although when poked my head out I was surprised to find that the visibility was still relatively intact and despite the rain I was sitting above some low level cloud.
I was in no hurry to get up and move so it was time for some tea and read a book. I'd forgotten my breakfast but fortunately had enough in the way of snacks (yes I know carrying up breakfast was probably more important than the book
) The idea of a pub lunch in Portree was also fairly tempting....
Eventually I felt the rain ease and managed to get everything packed up and attached to my rucksack without getting soaked. The cloud had come in further now and visibility was starting to disappear. I slipped and slid my way down scree and only ended up on my backside once and only one where I went properly flying
After a lot of care I made it back to the bealach and was glad to be back on solid ground!
From here I picked my way back downwards following the burn eventually reaching flatter ground and meeting some coos. Fortunately they seemed content to ignore me but I waited until I was a safe distance away before stopping!
Nearly back
Looking back up…
Relieved to be back at the car in one piece I was besieged first by rain and then by midges...happy days
