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The initial plan was for a week on Skye, but as the appointed date of departure neared it was becoming increasingly apparent from the BBC and MWIS forecasts that we'd picked the wrong week
. Of course forecasts can be wrong; but that rather abstract thought, true as it undeniably is, hardly justifies a journey of more than 300 miles
. So we (Karl and myself) decided to stay local, where the outlook was better.
Even so the weekend was a write-off and it wasn't until the Wednesday that the weather improved sufficiently to consider the route we'd set our sights on. We had in mind to try the grade 3 scramble up the south-east face of Ill Crag (as described in
Scrambles in the Lake District by R. B. Evans), which we would approach from Brotherilkeld in Eskdale. The fact that this scramble leads directly to the summit of Ill Crag fitted in nicely with my desire to complete the Lakeland Hewitts - Ill Crag and nearby Broad Crag being the only two whose actual summits I couldn't be sure I'd ever visited. From Broad Crag we'd continue over the Pike to Mickledore then, if there wasn't too much seepage coming down it, up Broad Stand for Scafell and the return to Brotherilkeld over Slight Side. Whether or not conditions would allow us to execute this plan in full we would find out in due course.
As we walked up Eskdale on the Wednesday morning we were pleased to see the clouds dispersing to reveal Slight Side and Bowfell. But the ground was quite wet from the previous day's rain and persistent clag. This was slightly worrying as we didn't relish the thought of slithering about on wet and greasy rock up one of the longest grade 3 scrambles in the lakes, especially without a rope
. But we marched on in the naïve hope that the rock would dry quickly as the sun warmed it.
- Looking up Eskdale to Bowfell
We reached the picturesque Lingcove Bridge with its nearby sheepfold of close-cropped grass, stopping to take in the magnificent beauty of the surroundings and the roar of the two meeting becks. By now the heat from the Sun was building up as it reflected off the drying ground. We were getting quite optimistic
.
- Waterfall in the Eskdale gorge just below Lingcove Bridge
As we plodded up the rise towards the uppermost part of the valley we got our first clear view of Ill Crag. Its huge south-east face looked an irresistible challenge.
- Scafell Pike and Ill Crag emerging above the gorge
Approaching and crossing Great Moss gave increasingly intimate views of the East Buttress of Scafell, Esk Buttress (named on OS maps as Dow Crag) and the more broken face of Ill Crag.
- Scafell and the East Buttress above Cam Spout
- Esk Buttress topped by Pen
The sketch of the route in R.B. Evans's guide is a bit, well, sketchy. But fortunately we were armed with a photographic topo printed from t' internet, which made identification of the start and the route above very definite.
- SW face of Ill Crag
- Line of the scramble
- The profile of Esk Buttress from the foot of Little Narrowcove
- Looking up the broken face of Ill Crag from the foot of Little Narrowcove
A short plod up the north bank of Little Narrowcove soon led to the start of the scramble. The bottom of the slab and the mossy corner were soaking wet. But at least most of the slab looked reasonably dry. It was clear, though, that we were likely to encounter some problematic wet or greasy sections higher up. As we had no rope we would need to be very careful.
Before setting off we sat down for a bite and a drink. Thus fortified we took our first steps up the scramble. The slab was pleasant and easy enough and led up to the grassy slope above, which we followed rightwards to the next section.
- Karl at top of lower slabs
An easy rib led to a vertical crack with an easy-angled but exposed slab on its left. The route takes the slab. The problem was that this slab was soaking wet. If dry it would be no problem at all, but as it was it offered as much friction as an oily girder covered in soap and was potentially lethal
. The vertical crack to its right was equally exposed and was damp at the bottom, but at least had some big, positive holds to pull up on without relying purely on friction. So although harder it was the safer option under the circumstances and led us to the easier ground above the slab.
From there it was a short walk leftwards to the foot of the central slabs. R.B. Evans writes 'If these slabs were more easily accessible they would certainly sport some pleasant rock climbs in their own right...' He goes on to say that they are about 160 feet high and look far too difficult for a scrambling route, but are easier than they look at least by the route described. Mercifully they weren't soaking wet. They looked wonderful. We set off up the middle of them using nice positive holds and at about 20 feet traversed left along a ledge to the crest of a rib. The groove on the right was damp but fortunately supplied with good holds and led without difficulty to a higher point on the crest of the rib. This was very exposed but led delightfully to the top of the slabs. Superb!
- At top of the central slabs
An easier section on grass and boulders now led up then leftwards to a deep, mossy,cave-like groove, to the right of which stands a pedestal. This is the start of the upper tower. Easily up onto the pedestal then an exposed traverse right using good holds onto the nose. A very exposed step up this leads to easier ground.
- Looking down the first section of the upper tower
Up to the left, across a grassy trench, a nice looking buttress of rough rock rises to a steepening at its top. We weren't sure exactly where the right line was but just followed the cleanest looking sweep of rock, which was on the right edge. I suspect that we should have been further left, for although the going was easy enough for the most part, where the tower steepened near the top there were some pretty technical moves which seemed much harder than anything below. The rock was damp and greasy at this point too. There was a lot of soaking moss just to the left but fortunately the crest above looked clean and a couple of committing moves led to dryer rock with small but positive holds. A few easier moves in a very exposed position led to the top. Maybe it was just the dampness that made this bit feel difficult, or maybe we'd taken the wrong line. Not sure, but a rope is definitely to be recommended.
- Looking down the top buttress of the upper tower
All that remained now was the final rib. This was less steep and looked a lot easier.
- Looking up the final rib
The scrambling on the final rib was indeed easy but seemed to go on forever as it merged into a massive, sloping field of boulders. But we did eventually, and quite suddenly, reach the summit of Ill Crag. The scramble had taken us about an hour and a half. It's certainly an interesting and challenging way up Ill Crag, with some fine sections of clean and sound rock; but it's more a case of stringing together these craggy bits than of following a natural line. In this respect Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag is a superior scramble.
- Summit of Ill Crag looking to a misty Scafell Pike
- Bowfell from Ill Crag
From Ill crag it was a short walk across the boulder-strewn plateau to Broad Crag, my final Lakeland Hewitt. A tiny cairn balanced on a big boulder marks the summit.
- Summit of Broad Crag
- Scafell Pike from Broad Crag
So then down to the Broad Crag col and the final grind to the summit of the Pike. Needless to say there were lots of folk about; quite a contrast from the scramble on which we saw no one.
- On Scafell Pike summit
We joined the crowds around the big, round structure that passes for the summit cairn and had some more food and drink. Then we made our way down to Mickledore.
- Mickledore and Scafell Crag
The narrow chimney at the bottom of Broad Stand was clearly visible as we approached the col. It looked wet, as did much of the East Buttress and Central Buttress. This enormous crag faces north so it doesn't see much sun. That means it's slow to dry. And Broad Stand, being at the bottom of a slabby depression, takes a lot of drainage. We squeezed into its little chimney - known as the 'fat man's agony' - and found its walls were streaming with cold water. Everywhere oozed with slime and drops fell from above. The ledge beyond was soaking and sloped out to a 40 ft. drop. We'd both been down here before, using it as a descent after doing one of the climbs on the face. But then it had been dry. Now it was sopping wet, slimy and treacherous. We decided that without a rope in these conditions it was too risky, so we squeezed back through the chimney onto safer ground. Sometimes you just have to accept defeat. We couldn't be bothered with Lord's Rake or Foxes Tarn so just went straight down the Cam Spout path into Upper Eskdale.
On the floor of the valley there were boulderers with their crash-mats playing on Samson's Stones. We watched them for a while then cut across the moss to a point in the beck that was crossable with our boots on. The long walk down Lakeland's wildest valley, full of beauty and interest, with more crags, waterfalls and rock-pools than you could shake a stick at, made a magical end to a fulfilling day. We may have been thwarted by a wet Broad Stand, but at least we were alive to remember what we had done and to look forward to the pub meal we'd promised ourselves.
- The sheepfold at Lingcove Bridge