by Sjiep » Wed Feb 21, 2018 12:51 pm
> best way to organise the 7 day stretch between Kinlochewe and Kinlochbervie
If this is the 'best way' I don't know, but based on what I did, these are my thoughts about it. Doing this in only 7 days would be wicked fast imo.
I suppose you either stayed at the Kinlochewe Bunkhouse, camped at the Taagan campsite or wild camped somewhere between Incheril and Gleann Bianasdail.
1. Kinlochewe to Shenavall, stay at the bothy or wild camp near it.
2. Shenavall to Inverlael, hitchhike or jump on a bus to Ullapool. I believe there used to be a hostel at Inverlael but no more. Ullapool has a lot of very welcome services after a prolonged period of staying outdoors. The YH is good, the Tesco is great for restocking and there are some nice pubs that serve quality food and ales as well. Perhaps you're one who prefers to avoid this, but for me, it was quite welcome to put something in my belly that wasn't cooked on my little stove which I had been eating for about a week.
3. Ullapool to the Schoolhouse bothy. This is a fairly easy stretch and not too long, but after the Schoolhouse there aren't many other options to pitch up a tent, and the Oykel Bridge hotel is fairly upper end in terms of costs. I passed this all by and kept on walking well past Caplich Estate until I finally found a place to pitch up my tent where Allt Rugaidh Bheag flows into the Oykel River. I had covered near 40km from Ullapool by then and while this was a stretch with very little ascent I was completely knackered. If there were better options to wild camp around Oykel Bridge and Caplich Wood/Estate it would be easier but nope. Therefore I suggest to make a halt at Schoolhouse Bothy. It's in a nice location. If you decide to push on, Oykel Bridge Hotel has friendly staff and you can charge up on food and drinks there if needed.
I should mention that the trail from Ullapool might be underwhelming for some as it's a 4x4 track pretty much the whole way. Especially the first few kms from Ullapool aren't pretty with the quarry, but I found it became a lot better once you reach Loch Achall.
4. Schoolhouse to wild camp where Allt Sail an Ruathair joing Oykel river. Again, a not very difficult stretch and if you're feeling energetic feel feel to push on to Inchnadamph but the ascent to Bealach Trallgil is not an easy one. This wild camp spot is relatively popular as it's pretty big and comes after a long stretch of non-possibilities. Chances are you won't be camping alone here.
5. Camp spot to Inchnadamph. As others have warned for: the hostel at Inchnadamph gets block-booked often and early. In January I checked for availability for a bed in June and it was already a no go; completely full. An alternative is the hotel next door but yeah, more dineros to pay. I had a good dinner there though. I opted to wild camp at Ardvreck Castle, which is about 2 km further up the A837. There are some nice secluded spots away from tourists there. You have to backtrack the next morning the same way. You can make the next day less strenuous by adding a part of the ascent to Bealach na h-Uidhe, wild camping near Loch Fleodach Coire. This is probably a midget-heavy area in Summer.
Sidenote: on my way up to Bealach Trallgil I stepped in a hole and my leg disappeared up to my knee while my body was still moving forward and with the added weight of my backpack my knee bended a bit into the wrong direction. Kinda hurt the rest of the day so tread carefully around here.
6. Inchnadamph to Glendhu bothy. I found this a pretty damn tough stage. I did it on a very hot day and it sapped my energy. On the other hand it was very dry underfoot which made the stretch along Abhainn an Loch Bhig all the way to Glencoul bothy more doable. If this is part is very boggy it would take houurrrrrsssss. Glencoul bothy is one of the nicest (located) bothies I've been to and ascending the slop towards Glendhu you have some real ace views.
7. Glendhu to Rhiconich/Inshegra/Kinlochbervie. Long stage if you do this in one go. Maybe you want to break this up in 2 days and wild camp somewhere halfway near Stack Lodge. I chose to go via Achfary but in retrospect this was not a good choice. The stretch from Achfary to Stack Lodge is all tarmac and it hurt my feet a whole lot.
After these two tough days I chose to take it easy and I stayed for a night at The Old School in Inshegra. After restocking at the London Stores headed the next day to Kearvaig bothy which was the other best bothy I've been to (but busy).
Hope you have a blast. This is an amazing part of Scotland to hike through.
