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Thrilling time in Torridon

Thrilling time in Torridon


Postby weaselmaster » Mon Mar 19, 2018 11:05 am

Munros included on this walk: Beinn Liath Mhòr, Maol Chean-dearg, Sgòrr Ruadh

Sub 2000' hills included on this walk: Bidein Clann Raonaild, Càrn nan Iomairean

Date walked: 18/03/2018

Time taken: 20 hours

Distance: 52.8 km

Ascent: 3519m

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As has been my wont of late I was studying the weather forecast all week. Snew, high winds, general death and destruction seemed to be visiting most of the country...apart from the North West, which was due to get high winds, admittedly, but was forecast to get sunshine. And the SAIS forecast for Torridon was perfect. Needing little additional encouragement I hastily made plans on Thursday morning for a northwest escapade. Had nowhere in mind to stay - I did phone - somewhat reluctantly - Ledgowan Estate to enquire about their campsite "open all year" the listing says. But no, it was "too wet" for anyone to camp at this time. Really :?

We set off late afternoon, Allison quite pleased with the destination. I wondered if we'd pitch up in a little spot we've used before some miles before The Clunie Inn, but we found an alternative in Glen Garry that suited our purpose fine. Friday was to have the worst winds - 50-70mph - so I had written off Munros and decided we might attempt something more daintily sized instead. I had two in mind - Carn nan Iomairean at Attadale and Bidean Clann Raonaild between Achnasheen and Kinlochewe. The day was dry, overcast and very windy, the car juddering as gusts hit us side on. We parked at Attadale and as we were preparing to set out a guy in an SUV asked if we were headed for the Munros. "Too windy for that" I replied, which I think he'd been going to suggest. We talked about the hill we had in mind - he said the hill path marked on the map was a bit difficult to find, but at least it'd be a day out. As we turned to walk out the gate a flock of sheep rapidly approached us, hoping for food and looking bitterly disappointed when we turned and walked away over the cattle grid. :(

Hungry Sheep
ImageDSC00854 by Al, on Flickr

Back onto the road for a few hundred metres south, til a sign marks the beginning of the hill track, a helpful gate through the deer fence. There was something - deer track or hill path it didn't really matter, it was heading in the right direction - up! The hillside was surprisingly dry underfoot. On our left were the threesome of Cheesecake, Lurg Mhor and Beinn Dronaig. The south Torridon hills also came into view as we climbed, the sun bursting through the puffy clouds in fitful spurts. Onwards up the hillside, reaching a land of knolls and knobs, hidden lochans and gullies. The actual summit was a considerable distance away, but in reaching it we were exposed to some fine views of Beinn Bhan over in Applecross, the Isle of Skye looking all chocolate-boxy and Kintail to the south. What a mouthwatering vista. The wind was reasonable - cold when it blasted you but often we found sheltered spots.

Cheesecake et al
ImageDSC00858 by Al, on Flickr

South Torridon
ImageDSC00859 by Al, on Flickr

Nearing the top of one of many tops...
ImageDSC00860 by Al, on Flickr

Beinn Bhan
ImageDSC00862 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00866 by Al, on Flickr

Skye
ImageDSC00867 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00871 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00872 by Al, on Flickr


After lunch at the summit, we headed back by a more northeasterly route taking us through forestry. Numerous trees had fallen across the path, necessitating some scrambling over recumbent trunks and branches or diversions through the trees. Emerging from the woods we returned down the hillside towards the farm buildings, negotiating (badly) some razor-sharp brambles and having a shallow ford to cross just before the car park.

Summit pano
ImageDSC00873 by Al, on Flickr

South to Kintail
ImageDSC00874 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00876 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00877 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00878 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00879 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00880 by Al, on Flickr


It was only around 2.30 and the day was still bright - we decided to head up towards Kinlochewe for our next Marilyn, keeping eyes out for likely places to wild-camp for the night. Unfortunately we found none of those. We stopped on the A832 by the start of the track running to the summit of Bidein Clann Raonaild, thought twice about camping inside the fence (too tussocky) and set off up the track without rucksacks. Wind was still bitterly cold but we were able to walk briskly. A deer fence gate to be climbed then the track continues. We could look over to Beinn Liath Mor and Robertson's Buttress on Sgorr Ruadh but the full beauty of the views are not realised until you reach the summit. And then wow! you look straight down Loch Maree, squat Slioch sitting guard. East are the Fisherfield hills, with an appearance also from snowbacked An Teallach. Beinn Eighe and Liathach sit haunched on the north side of Glen Torridon. If you block out the intrusions from the transmitter mast and buildings at the summit, this is a sublime place. Easily reached and a superb spot for watching a summer sunset. We turned and followed the track back to the car, having decided to drive on to Torridon village and use the community campsite there.

ImageDSC00881 by Al, on Flickr

South Torridon Hills
ImageDSC00882 by Al, on Flickr

Summit
ImageDSC00883 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00885 by Al, on Flickr

Slioch
ImageDSC00887 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00888 by Al, on Flickr

View down Loch Maree
ImageDSC00890 by Al, on Flickr

View down Glen Torridon
ImageDSC00891 by Al, on Flickr

Liathach
ImageDSC00892 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00893 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00895 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00899 by Al, on Flickr


Another few tents were spaced around in the campsite, bravely taking shelter from the ferocious wind. The ground was drier than I've ever seen this campsite (ha! Mr Ledgowan man - you just don't like campers, do you). We had a bit of a struggle with the wind getting the tent pitched, and a few extra pegs were placed to ensure we remained earthbound. After a tasty tea of tofu palak paneer there was time for a wander down to the shore and back through the village as night fell. Back in the tent we battened down what hatches we could find. It was a wild night - lying in the warmth of the sleeping bag listening to the wind barrelling along Glen Torridon, whipping the trees like crazy until it came to the tent with a bang! Oh, it was exciting, with the thrill of being tossed on a stormy sea (whilst actually not moving) - I forced myself to stay awake to listen to the sturm und drang of it all.

In the morning the grass was white with frost and the day clear and chill. Blue skies greeted our emergence from the tent, the sun even threatened to make an appearance. The wind was still there, but hopefully it would behave and not impede our plans for the day. I'd decided it would be good to do Beinn Liath Mor and Sgorr Ruadh from the north, using the footpath that runs past the Ling Hut and ends in Choire Ghrannda. We parked at the carpark east of Liathach which was full of cars by just gone 9am (climbers, I guess, making good use of the perfect snow and ice). We wandered along the footpath, being alternately baked by the sun then chilled when the wind found us. I felt privileged to be able to enjoy the views, especially of Liathach behind us.

Morning sun
ImageDSC00906 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00912 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00914 by Al, on Flickr

Liathach / Beinn Eighe
ImageDSC00918 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00919 by Al, on Flickr

As we neared the opening of Choire Ghrannda we spotted a number of footprints in the snow heading up Sail Garbh, rather than into the choire. As the wind was making its presence felt more persistently it did seem a reasonable idea to climb Beinn Liath Mor first, meaning we could decide on the risks of ascending the ridge and slender cone of Sgorr Ruadh later. It turned out to be an easier ascent than from the choire too - we reached the flat area between Sail Garbh and the tower of BLM without much difficulty then steeled ourselves for the 100m or so up to the summit. Manageable despite intermittent gusts - we traced our steps back down, noting crampon marks from today already there. We later saw the 2 walkers on Sgorr Ruadh.

Choire Ghrannda
ImageDSC00920 by Al, on Flickr

Maol-chean Dearg
ImageDSC00921 by Al, on Flickr

Zoom of Liathach
ImageDSC00923 by Al, on Flickr

Loch Torridon, Ben Alligin
ImageDSC00926 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00927 by Al, on Flickr

Beinn Liath Mor
ImageDSC00928 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00930 by Al, on Flickr

Beinn Damh
ImageDSC00932 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00934 by Al, on Flickr

Sgorr Ruadh
ImageDSC00935 by Al, on Flickr

Summit section of Beinn Liath Mor
ImageDSC00936 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00939 by Al, on Flickr

A profusion of peaks
ImageDSC00940 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00941 by Al, on Flickr


The next section, over Sail Garbh and down to the south proved a mite terrifying. I'd forgotten the steep sandstone tiers that lead down to the little lochan. We were faced with a section of 50 metres or so of near vertical (well, not really but quite close :wink: ) descent on frozen snow or ice. A number of folk had been up/down, so there were steps kicked, but I do admit to getting a bit of the jelly legs going down, not least because a fall here would be onto sandstone boulders at the bottom. With some relief we made it down, then set off up to the summit of the south top (Sim) and down towards the lochan in Coire Lair. I could see the 2 guys coming down from Sgorr Ruadh and hurried off to ask if they'd made the summit and what the wind was like. They reported it wasn't too bad, and we decided to give it a try.

Steep section off BLM - not nearly as scary looking as it felt!
ImageDSC00942 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00944 by Al, on Flickr

Beinn Liath Mor
ImageDSC00945 by Al, on Flickr

Sgorr Ruadh
ImageDSC00946 by Al, on Flickr

Maol-chean Dearg
ImageDSC00949 by Al, on Flickr

Stuc a'Choire Ghrannda
ImageDSC00951 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00952 by Al, on Flickr



Firstly, a visit to another Sim, the outlier of Stuc a'Choire Ghrannda and some more fabulous views across to Liathach and Ben Alligin. I was feeling a little anxious about the climb up to the summit of Sgorr Ruadh, particularly the final section to the top which looked narrow and exposed. We meandered along the ridge until it narrowed. Glad that there were rocks amongst the snew for handholds I followed Allison up, knowing that we had to return the same way. I was not enjoying this part very much, my quota for anxiety already having been expended today on the earlier section. My main worry was that a gust of wind, such as we'd experienced earlier on Liath Mor would hit us in an exposed position - it would be a long and rocky way down. Added to which Allison kept pausing as she had cramp in her calf muscle and I just wanted it over with. We made it to the summit, I took a couple of photos then said "I want off of here". Feeling the fear coursing through me, I beetled away back down, pausing when I had left the exposed section behind for a deep breath.

Sgorr Ruadh
ImageDSC00953 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00955 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00956 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00957 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00958 by Al, on Flickr



The rest of the day was pure enjoyment in glorious sunny weather as we dropped down from the lip of Choire Ghrannda and traversed the frozen snow slopes back to the path out. We looked straight over to Liathach, remembering the time we'd bum-slid right down Way-Up Gully :lol: Walking back towards the Ling Hut the day had the feel of spring, at last. An utterly grand day. Back at the tent the temperature had fallen, we were both quite tired and had an early night after dinner. Some campervan dudes put paid to a good night's sleep with music that went on til after 2am :-x

ImageDSC00960 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00961 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00962 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00963 by Al, on Flickr

Ling Hut / Beinn Eighe
ImageDSC00964 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00965 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00966 by Al, on Flickr


Maol-chean Dearg had been chosen for Sunday's hill - the wind supposedly having died away by then. Although I had looked at doing it too from the north, given the long drive back awaiting us it seemed prudent to start from Coulags which was both shorter and on better track. The sky was heavy - light flurries of snew were in the air and the temperature had dropped another couple of notches. Hmmm. By the time we'd driven round to Coulags the sun was shining. We left just after a couple of guys and set off along the track by the Fionn Abhain. I had thought we might have made use of the bothy last night and had an earlier start but reckoned it would most probably be crammed given the good weekend. We wandered past it, and Finn's fingerstone, turning up the zigzag track into Bealach a'Choire Ghairbh. We hit frozen snew at about 400m, stopping to put crampons on. Further into the choire we met Jennifer Cardno who'd been at the summit already - always nice to meet fellow Walkhighlanders.

ImageDSC00968 by Al, on Flickr

Sgorr Ruadh
ImageDSC00969 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00971 by Al, on Flickr


The steep ascent up the shoulder to the 757m point took our breath away - literally. The wind, which hadn't really been noticeable til then was funneled straight at us and it was all we could do to keep upright. I had gone up the hill a bit east of the path, keeping on snew - I was blown right round like a crab. At the top of that section we met the 2 guys who had left the car park before us, they were turning back. I wasn't sure what to do - there were another 200m of height to go and the summit plateau might get the full thrust of the wind - however Jennifer had said that it got easier nearer the top, so we decided to continue. Maol-chean Dearg is a bit of a whaleback, so not the corncern about being blown off a narrow ridge we had the day before. And true enough, the wind, though still a forecful presence, was not as strong as we walked towards the summit - indeed the top was relatively tranquil and Allison was able to climb up onto the cairn without fear of being airlifted back to Torridon :lol:

An Stac
ImageDSC00972 by Al, on Flickr

Beinn Damh
ImageDSC00974 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00976 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00977 by Al, on Flickr

Alligin & Liathach
ImageDSC00979 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00980 by Al, on Flickr

ImageDSC00983 by Al, on Flickr

We were not particularly looking forward to the descent down the shoulder, but I took a line around the leeward aspect of the hillside, which meant dealing with more scree but less wind. As we walked back down the path (having chosen not to add on An Stac or the Sim of Meall nan Ceapairean for obvious reasons) we did see the Coastguard copter descending into Coire Lair across the way. Cheeks ruddy with the wind and sun it had been a fabulous weekend's walking.
weaselmaster
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby Mal Grey » Mon Mar 19, 2018 11:42 am

Yep. Still my favourite part of the world!

Good weekend by the look of it. That summit ridge of Sgorr Ruadh is surprisingly narrow for a short while, and yes, that complex descent from BLM can be "interesting" in snow! I always assume there's a better way I haven't yet found, but then look back from below later and can't see anything else.
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby BlackPanther » Mon Mar 19, 2018 11:47 am

We popped in to Torridon yesterday for a quick Graham bagging trip and I wondered if it was your tent in the campsite :lol:

Hats off for pushing it all the way to every summit, I can imagine the wind gusts at 1000m... We struggled badly even on Graham height. But it was great to see some sunshine for a change, even if we could not enjoy a full-blown picnic on the top.
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby weaselmaster » Mon Mar 19, 2018 12:11 pm

BlackPanther wrote:We popped in to Torridon yesterday for a quick Graham bagging trip and I wondered if it was your tent in the campsite :lol:

Hats off for pushing it all the way to every summit, I can imagine the wind gusts at 1000m... We struggled badly even on Graham height. But it was great to see some sunshine for a change, even if we could not enjoy a full-blown picnic on the top.


Not An Ruadh Mheallan? From Bealach na Gaoithe - the bealach of the winds?? We were just talking about that one yesterday, hardly being able to get the car door open due to the wind force when we climbed it. Must've been fun yesterday!

I don't know about picnics at the top, but I'm getting sick of half my crisps being blown out the bag before I get a chance to eat them :lol:
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby BlackPanther » Mon Mar 19, 2018 12:27 pm

weaselmaster wrote:Not An Ruadh Mheallan? From Bealach na Gaoithe - the bealach of the winds?? We were just talking about that one yesterday, hardly being able to get the car door open due to the wind force when we climbed it. Must've been fun yesterday!

I don't know about picnics at the top, but I'm getting sick of half my crisps being blown out the bag before I get a chance to eat them :lol:


It was AR-M indeed! The little car park on top of the Windy Col is in very exposed spot, we struggled even when preparing for the walk, making sure different parts of our gear wouldn't fly away :lol: On the little summit plateau we had to grab rocks to be able to stand straight to take pictures. Yes, it was fun in an odd way :lol: :lol:
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby scoob999 » Mon Mar 19, 2018 5:52 pm

:clap: :clap: :clap:
Some nice pics there 8) We were rebuilding what i'd removed from our camper or we would've been up that area too..

Intrigued with your use of the word snew, and the misuse of it in one particular sentence! The use of snew is fine when talking about snow that has already fallen, but, I believe when it is snowing the use of snew is forbidden :crazy: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby malky_c » Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:10 pm

I was wondering who would annoy me by posting pristine NW highland photos this weekend - looks like you and Allison win the prize! :lol:

Fantastic weather and great photos - probably better for not being able to see the wind :wink: .
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby jenniferc6 » Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:35 pm

Good to meet you again and glad you made it to the top despite the wind! I met a couple of guys on their way out from the bothy in the morning, they had a wheelbarrow with them which they had brought coal in with - it would have been a warm evening in the bothy! :)
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby Chris Mac » Mon Mar 19, 2018 8:30 pm

Great report and absolutely stunning photos Al! :clap: :clap: :clap:

Seriously good pics, very professional looking and they definitely bring out the best in those hills, looks like you both had a cracking couple of days. I can't wait until I head up that way for the first time, there is just something about the shapes of those Torridon peaks and mountains, it's one of the most beautful places in the country.
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby weaselmaster » Mon Mar 19, 2018 10:14 pm

scoob999 wrote::clap: :clap: :clap:
Some nice pics there 8) We were rebuilding what i'd removed from our camper or we would've been up that area too..

Intrigued with your use of the word snew, and the misuse of it in one particular sentence! The use of snew is fine when talking about snow that has already fallen, but, I believe when it is snowing the use of snew is forbidden :crazy: :lol: :lol: :lol:


I think you're probably right on that count, although "snew(e)" can be used to refer to it snowing in the present tense too in old-fashioned English. The grammar police have caught up with me :shock:

I was also dismayed to get home and find that stuc a'choire ghrannda was only a subSim - damn! I didn't fancy the one on Robertson's Buttress either in the conditions. Need to do my research more thoroughly :roll:
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby scoob999 » Mon Mar 19, 2018 10:56 pm

weaselmaster wrote:
I think you're probably right on that count, although "snew(e)" can be used to refer to it snowing in the present tense too in old-fashioned English. The grammar police have caught up with me :shock:

Google is my friend :wink:

weaselmaster wrote:I was also dismayed to get home and find that stuc a'choire ghrannda was only a subSim - damn! I didn't fancy the one on Robertson's Buttress either in the conditions. Need to do my research more thoroughly :roll:


I feel your pain! Fi has us doing those thingy's too sometimes :shock: Me personally, I just enjoy the scenery :crazy:
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Re: Thrilling time in Torridon

Postby dav2930 » Tue Mar 20, 2018 8:10 pm

Great report and pics of what was clearly a fabulous trip. :clap: Sgorr Ruadh looks a superbly elegant peak from Torridon, and when covered with snow (or snew!) looks positively alpine; even more alluring than it's more famous neighbours north of the glen. Interesting approaching it from that direction too. I've only been up it in summer (the usual round from Achnashellach) but I remember the rocky scramble towards the top; I can imagine it would be quite challenging in winter conditions. Allison, at least, seems to have enjoyed it though!

weaselmaster wrote: - I forced myself to stay awake to listen to the sturm und drang of it all.

Do I detect a hint of irony there? :lol:
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