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I awoke to the sound of waves breaking gently on the shore and the gentle flapping of tent fabric. It seemed after the
previous day’s exertions I had finally got myself a good night’s sleep
When I opened to tent door it was to one of my favourite sights
I was in no particular rush and was still in the beginnings of a plan for the day. I got the maps out as I boiled water for hot chocolate and porridge from the warmth of my sleeping bag and enjoyed the sense of relaxation that you get from not actually needing to be anywhere, or to do anything, at that moment.
Some time later I parked up at Fassfern and headed up the track signposted to Glen Loy, heading for Meall a’ Phuibuill. Also signposted was Meall Onfhaidh – a quick check of the map suggested that the addition of this hill would make a nice circular route, and I’m a big fan of them
I decided to see how the legs and the weather fared as the day progressed.
Today was to be more overcast but it was gloriously sunny as I made good progress up the track
Looking back to Stob Coire a’ Chearcaill across Loch Eil
The track made for easy walking and as I crossed the burn on the slightly wobbly but very welcome bridge I could see Glensulaig Bothy ahead. Figuring it was worth a wee diversion to take a look I risked wet feet as I bog-hopped my way across a field.
Rather than backtrack I cut straight uphill from here to rejoin the path. My legs didn’t thank me for this
But at least it was largely dry or avoidable bog
Back on the track it gained height easily before joining the Allt Fionn Doire. I liked the rock steps that the river was flowing over. The An t-Suileag had been the same as I’d walked up the glen so it must be some geological process prevalent in the area.
Safely across the river thanks to another footbridge I was onto the open slopes of Meall a’ Phuibuill. This steep slog to the summit looked to be the worst bit of the day – the price I was to pay for the Gleann Suileag approach and my nice circular route
At least I could see an impressive snowy Gulvain beginning to appear
It was steep and pathless and I slowly and steadily made progress uphill. Stops were made often and many unnecessary photos were taken as I dragged myself up the ascent from hell.
Meall Onfhaidh
Looking back down Gleann Suileag
As the gradient began to relent I found myself crossing snow fields which made for much easier walking
However I was also hit with the full force of the wind which negated the easier underfoot conditions as I struggled to stay on course
Finally at the summit – the plateau-like summit meant that the best views of Gulvain are still to come
The Lochaber Massif – Ben Nevis and pals
Jaxter on Meall a’ Phuibuill
Stob Coire a’ Chearcaill and Loch Eil
Towards Moidart
Glenfinnan hills
It was cold on top so definitely wasn’t hanging about weather. The map suggested that dropping off towards the bealach would be steep but possible….This turned out to be correct but much more mental than I’d expected
Firm enough footing for a wee pano
I this might be the Glenfinnan munros
I stopped to scope out my route up Meall Onfhaidh
I carefully picked my way down towards the bealach, very grateful that the ground was dry and at least I could get plenty of purchase with my boots. Looking back up it looked like slightly further north would have given me a slightly easier descent but thankfully I was safely down and had even found a burn to top up my water supplies too!
I crossed the bealach – Feith an Easain – which was fairly squishy before heading up again. My planned route would traverse diagonally across, heading for a rock with a tree which would give me the easiest ground whilst also avoiding most of the snow.
A better angle of Gulvain
Looking back to my descent from Meall a’ Phuibuill
As I finally arrived at the snow it was steep and hard. Crampons on a Graham – well I never
Crampons fitted, it was an easy walk up the final section to the ridge. The snow had formed into some pretty cool shapes
Once on the ridge I was out of snow so my 5 minutes of crampons was over
Still, just goes to show that even on lower hills it’s still winter!
Having gained the ridge I’d also got the wind back and I fought my way up the final few metres towards the summit of Meall Onfhaidh.
Gulvain
That’s some skyline – the hills of Ardnamurchan
Glenfinnan Hills
Loch Eil with Ben Nevis
The sun hitting Gulvain
Meall a’ Phuibuill
Nevis & pals
Again it was cold and blowy so I headed off – it looked like an easy descent down to the track. “Easy” wasn’t quite how I’d have described what I came down although it wasn’t quite as bad as the earlier descent
I had considered going over Aodann Chleireig – it was an attractive looking hill, but my legs were tired and more importantly the weather was set to come in with the promise of another dump of snow and I wanted to be home (or at least past Tyndrum!) before it hit….more on that later
On the descent – looking down Gleann Suileag
Aodann Chleireig – a hill for another day
As I descended I found myself walking through Donald Trump’s hair factory and felt great delight in kicking it around a bit
Yet another conveniently placed footbridge saw me easily across the Leth Allt near the dam and onto the track. From here it was an easy walk back to the car, and as the weather was still nice I stopped to enjoy my sandwiches as I looked back to Meall Onfhaidh and Meall a’ Phuibuill behind
Ben Nevis, miraculously still clear – that’s three days in a row (3 weeks worth of clear days
)
Eventually I crossed the bridge across the An t-Suileag and was back on my outward path with an easy walk back to Fassfern.
What followed was an unpleasant drive home as it started snowing at Glencoe and got gradually worse. Fortunately I passed the high points before it properly hit and I was able to hole up in my flat during the blizzard
Absolutely worth it, what a weekend
