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Of all my planned walks for my few days in Fort William, it was the anticipation of the Grey Corries that excited me the most.
My first sight from the parking spot was the Aonachs in the dawn light. (PS my little car was fine with the infamous road, just a matter of going slowly)
IMG_3992 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Obligatory shot of the Wee Minister. When I took this photo I thought he was looking in quite a party mood, now I'm not so sure.
IMG_3998 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
When I walk alone, I tend to start walking early (5am on this occasion), and walk very slowly, so as to soak in the ambience of the hills. There is a lot of talk these days about "mindfulness" and "being in the moment" but that simply happens, when you're in the hills.
So I spent an unknown amount of time on the top of Stob Coire Gaibhre, doing nothing except watching the clouds billowing above Coire na Ceannain. The summits were hidden, revealed and then hidden again. Best telly in the world.
IMG_4021 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
To the west, I could see the rest of the Grey Corries peaks and ridges also disappearing and emerging - this is Caisteal.
IMG_4058 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
There was a Turner-ish view down into the Lairig Leacach.
IMG_4031 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
From a little way along the ridge, the lochan in the corrie was like a round blue mirror reflecting the sky. However, the boulders right at the bottom of the lochan were also visible (can be seen by clicking on the little plus button on the Flickr image)
IMG_4065 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Then, I entered the clouds. Above a snowfield, a saw-backed arête ran straight towards the summit. It was very easy scrambling, but the mist made it very atmospheric.
IMG_4076 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Looking back down the arête.
IMG_4080 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
I reached the cairn of Stob Coire Claurigh. My sandwiches did not look Masterchef standard but they tasted bloody delicious.
IMG_4087 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
As I sat at the cairn, the mists began to break up. The first hill that came into my view was Stob Coire Cath na Sine, with sunlight filtering onto its snow patches.
IMG_4104 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
The mist then closed in again, so I set off down the ridge, and as i did the clouds rolled away. From Stob a' Choire Lèith I could see back all the way up to the summit of Claurigh.
IMG_4105 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
The clouds were clearing from the ridge ahead of me too - this is the view west from Stob a' Choire Lèith.
IMG_4109 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Caisteal, Stob Coire an Laoigh, Stob Coire Easain, and the distant Aonachs starting to emerge from the clouds.
IMG_4112 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
I stuck to the crest of Stob Coire Cath na Sine to enjoy more simple scrambling. A gully gave a view back to Claurigh.
IMG_4122 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Perfect easy scrambling terrain.
IMG_4124 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
The view west from Caisteal. Ben Nevis was now coming out of the clouds.
IMG_4133 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Looking back from the cairn on Stob Coire an Laoigh.
IMG_4148 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Sgurr Choinnich Mor, Sgurr a'Mhaim and Aonach Beag from the top of Stob Coire an Laoigh.
IMG_4146 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Aonach Mor and Stob Coire Easain.
IMG_4149 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Closer view of Sgurr Choinnich Mor and the Mamores.
IMG_4151 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
I then began to retrace my steps. Rather than the recommended WH route, I wanted to repeat the ridge, and see it all in the different light and shadows of the afternoon, especially as in my experience, quartzite is the most extraordinary rock for looking bright in sunshine, dark in shadow.
So I went back to the top of the Stob Coire an Laoigh crags, where I had a superb view of Caisteal.
IMG_4160 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Pinnacles on Stob Coire an Laoigh.
IMG_4162 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Caisteal, Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor.
IMG_4174 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Looking from the crags of Stob Coire Cath na Sine towards Stob Coire Claurigh.
IMG_4175 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
The Ben above the ridges.
IMG_4176 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Stob Ban from the ridge.
IMG_4183 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Remains of cornices on Stob a' Choire Lèith.
IMG_4186 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
The ridges in afternoon light from the top of Stob Coire Claurigh.
IMG_4194 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Another ridge study - all in parallel.
IMG_4200 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Stob Coire Ceannain from the summit.
IMG_4202 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
And then the whole ridge was, just on cue, lit by bright sunshine as I sat at the summit cairn of Claurigh.
IMG_4192 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
I realised it was time to head down. This is the afternoon light on Coire na Ceannain.
IMG_4205 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
Looking back to the ridge from the easy descending slopes.
IMG_4207 by
Half Man Half Titanium, on Flickr
It had been one of my very favourite walks - a place I know I will return to again and again.
I will always do the there-and-back, too. I think it doubles the pleasure of this mesmerising ridge and the shifting sunlight on the quartzite.
