walkhighlands

Share your personal walking route experiences in Scotland, and comment on other peoples' reports.
Warning Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. Summer routes may not be viable or appropriate in winter. See winter information on our skills and safety pages for more information.

A night on Jura

A night on Jura


Postby Stefan1 » Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:15 pm

Route description: Beinn an Oir, via Loch an t-Siob

Corbetts included on this walk: Beinn an Òir

Date walked: 06/07/2018

Time taken: 24 hours

Distance: 56 km

16 people think this report is great.
Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).

Last weekend the weather was excellent. Pictures of mountain tops with no clouds in the sky were rife. Unfortunately, I was away, so didn't get to play in the good weather. Fortunately, the good weather remained. So on a Thursday at work (which mostly involved sitting outside on the grass) I decided it was hill time.

Jura is one of the Scottish islands on my dwindling list of islands I want to visit but haven't yet. It was time to check it off the list. Part of the reason that Jura has remained untouched by me is the difficulty of getting there - especially without a car. While Oban and Mallaig, gateways to so many beautiful islands, are well served by truly beautiful and enjoyable train journeys, Kennecraig is not. To get there requires a bus. This is, of course, a terrifying prospect. Buses are well known sources of misery and disease. However, needs must. The now familiar train to Glasgow passed quickly, and I soon found myself at the bus station. I admit that looking round at the destinations on the front of some of the buses has rather tempted me for future trips to parts unaccessible by train... but that's for another time. For now, I found my bus. Bus, is, of course, not the correct word. Long distance buses like these are coaches, clean, spacious and mercifully air-conditioned. Couple that with a brilliantly entertaining driver and I will admit I enjoyed the bus ride more than many a train ride! The pretty route didn't hurt either.

Image
Jura appears in the distance.

Image
Closer under a grey sky.

We arrived to Kennecraig late, so there was only time to buy a ticket and board to boat. A spot of lunch was followed by an enjoyable journey out on deck, watching the world go by. Far too soon, it was over and we arrived at Port Askaig on Islay. I was on Islay for all of 5 minutes, before the little ferry to Jura pulled away on its short crossing. Although the crossing is only 5 minutes, that 5 minutes was enough time for the clouds to disperse and give the clear indication that the rest of the day was to be sunny. I stepped off the ferry onto Jura. The first step of many on this wonderful, wild island. I headed up the west coast, watching the Islay shoreline slip by on my left, enjoying the views of Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain which I had visited almost 2 years earlier! The good dirt track was baked dry and made for easy progress. Until it started to rise. I am not the world's fittest man by any stretch. I have, however, done enough walking to be able to convince myself that the hard going was not just the effect of too many pies, but also partly due to the extra weight I was carrying - extra water, food a tent and sleeping bag. The plan was to sleep somewhere out in the wilds of Jura. At least the weather was perfect for it.

Image
The cloud starts to break.

Image
It got me to Islay, but now time to leave the big boat behind and head for Jura!

Image
Sadly not the boat we took!

I have seen people refer to Jura as a wilderness. Untamed. Wild. Remote. These are the words I have often heard banded about regarding the island. "One road, one distillery and 6000 deer". I have to say that these were not my initial impressions. The deer were undeniably everywhere. But wild? As the miles slipped by on the well-made dirt track I couldn't help but feel it was all rather tame. And as for remoteness? Well, I could see houses on Islay, and the lump of land a bit further north was Colonsay - which I'd also been too. Nope, can't say it felt that remote. Of course, that's not to say it wasn't beautiful. As the path rose, the sun warmed and the view grew evermore expansive. Also, as much as it didn't feel too remote, I didn't see a single other person all day - not even in the distance. Maybe it was remote after all.

Image
No shortage of these on Jura.

Image
Rather sunny now.

As the track skirted he side of Beinn a'Chaolais, I briefly flirted with the idea of going over the top of it to get to my goal. Fortunately, reason returned to me quickly and I realised what a stupid idea that was. It was hot. I was tired. So tired I couldn't even be bothered to brush away the clegs which were annoyingly plentiful whenever the slight breeze dropped. The point where I realised quite how tired I was came as I neared the far side of the hill. The track dropped some 30 meters ahead of me, before forking right up the valley between Beinn a'Chaolais and Bainn an Oir. "Ah hah!" said my brain, "Why bother dropping, only to have to climb that again, when we could just contour the hill?" Now, this is something that I always think when walking. Of course, in general leaving the track for a "short-cut" is a terrible idea. The tougher terrain invariably takes more effort, and more often than not you end up in a bog cursing the idiot that came up with the idea (which is, of course, yourself). But... maybe this time it might just work... Ahhh... foolish optimism. It did work actually. Sort of. A bit. Maybe. There certainly were no bogs. Weeks of baking heat and barely any rain had seen to that. The terrain, however, was of course much tougher than the track had been. I ended up requiring hands as I clambered round exposed rocky ledges. This sort of walking is much more fun than the relentless grinding trudge on the trail, however, so I felt vindicated in my decision - which is unfortunate, as I may end up taking this sort of decision again in the future!

Image
Deer on all sides, though usually far away.

Image
That looks an intimidating climb.

More deer greeted me at the bealach, and quickly dispersed as my heavy footsteps drew me closer. It was time to find a way up the hill. Beinn an Oir looked rather steep from here. Indeed as I started to climb I was surprised how rocky it is, and indeed was reduced to genuine scrambling in a couple of places, although this was probably due to my poor navigation, rather than the actual difficulty of the real path, which I managed to lose at several times. Fortunately, the 4G reception was brilliant this high up, and I was able to listen to the England India cricket match as I climbed! I can thoroughly recommend this as a way to take your mind of the hard, tiring work of walking! A final push up a relentless quartz scree slope damn near killed me. I sank 3/4 of a step back for every step I took, and progress was painfully slow. Finally, a few more rocky meters and I'd made it. The summit. Not a bad view.


Image
Baking weather.

Image
Starting to get higher.

Image
Getting there...!

There was a big problem though. I don't know much about tenting, other than it's uncomfortable and I don't like it. However, I don't think you're supposed to pitch your tent on broken rock and scree. This was a big problem as the summit was made exclusively of the stuff. Bother. I rested for a while on the summit considering my options. Eventually I decided to explore further down the summit ridge, surely there'd be a grassy patch somewhere. As it turns out there wasn't. In fact, there was something better. Thick moss grew in between the rocks and boulders, and in a couple of places this moss had even spread to cover the tops of the rocks. There it was, some 10 meters below the summit, a patch just big enough to pitch a tent on. Much softer than grass, this looked perfect. Some large rocks placed on top of the tent pegs (which were really not doing a great job of anchoring the tent into the soft moss) and I had a home for the night. I added a few more rocks to secure it in case the wind picked up and eventually, satisfied that it was secure I crawled inside to listen to the rest of the cricket, and wait for the sun to drop a bit. Eventually, I went back to the summit armed with my camera for the sunset. The breeze was cold and I regretted not bringing a jumper - or at least I did until I reminded myself how heavy my pack had felt anyway! No jumper was fine. Less weight was definitely the correct shout! The sun sank over Colonsay and I clicked away merrily on the camera, shuddering in the breeze. A slightly disappointing sunset, but then again, maybe I've just been spoiled in the past. Sun gone, it was time for bed.

Image
Evening light. looking towards the mainland.

Image
Whisky peeking up at me from Islay.

Image
Extensive views!

Image
Colonsay looks so small!

Image
In the evening light, Beinn a'Chaolais looked even better.

Image
Found a spot for my tent!

Image
Light and shadows.

Image
Off goes the sun.

Image
Mull looking rather peaceful.

Image
Ah, finally a snap of the actual summit.

Image
And again.

Image
Ok, the pictures are getting rather repetitive, but it's a good view, so why not!

Image
The tip of Islay in the last of the light.

[img][https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36734416_10160626568300597_1056438547520684032_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=c00e1682fbff89741786d8c8be7228c3&oe=5BE90BD2[/img]
Oronsay

Image
Looking south-east-ish

Image
Home.

Image
The unmistakable shapes of the Dutchman's Cap, Lunga and even Staffa peering out of the distance.

Image
Time for bed.

My alarm went off at 4:45. I had not slept well. But then again, I don't think anyone ever does in a tent. No matter. Sunrise time. And what a sunrise! Far to the Northeast the sun was peaking above the mountains, a streak of cloud directly above it and more clouds overhead. The colours were breathtaking. Warm yellows and intense pinks and purples, turning evermore yellow as the run rose to meet the cloud. I had a wonderful time watching it and enjoying the warmth it brought - I'd got a little cold in the night! All too soon the sun was up, and tucked itself away behind a cloud. I returned to my tend and packed up.

Image
Good morning! And what a morning!

Image
Colours towards Mull

Image
Brilliant sun over the mainland.

Image
Not a bad spot!

Image
Bit more of a panorama.

Image
Back at the summit.

Image
A darker one.

Image
So many layers of hills!

Image
A slight mist only helps things!

Image
Views to the east coast are perhaps the best.

Image
Beinn Shiantadh stands guard.

Image
Sea and mountains.

Image
Arran my "go to" island looking inviting!

Image
Maybe my favourite snap of the morning!

Image
Sun getting higher as the day gets going!

Image
But the cloud starts to thicken up.

Image
Ok, one last look at that view!

Time for another long walk - but all down hill this time. I quickly went down the east side of the mountain, and was pleased to find this route much less steep and much easier than the way I'd come up. The moorland below was dry, although gave every impression of being a bogfest 99% of the year. I was lucky. It took me nearly 2 hours to reach the road, and I set off trudging down it. I was keen for a swim to wash away some of the grime of all the miles I'd walked, but knew I'd just get hot and sweaty again soon after. Although the morning was cloudy, it was still warm and muggy. I got to within 30 minutes of Craighouse before stopping for a swim. Seals gambled around, some lazily sitting on rocks, others joining me in the water. One very curious little fellow came to within 5 meters of me. It was lovely. The water was beautifully clear and refreshing. I enjoyed floating there - finally the weight off my feet.


Image
Looking back to the hills from below.

Image
A very calm sea greats me.

Image
Abstract art... or a seal in the sea...


Getting dressed took a long time. The feet had not fared well from their rest and every step I took back on dry land felt painful! Eventually I was ready to go, feet encased within their boot-prison again, and readjusting to walking. I arrived in Craighouse at about 9:30, had time to sit and watch the swans a little before my important appointment at 10. 10 am was distillery time. As it turned out, I was the only person mad enough to want to tour a distillery in the middle of nowhere at 10 am on a Saturday, so a solo tour it was. And what a great little tour (the bonus whiskies offered me from behind the counter didn't hurt either!).I took the opportunity to refill my water bottles (with water, not whisky!) and was soon back on the road again. The clouds had decided that covering up the sun was too much effort and had disappeared somewhere, leaving the sun beating down again. The long walk back to the ferry passed uneventfully, and I was soon back on Islay. I briefly considered staying another night and poking my nose into some more whisky, but tiredness got the better of me. So then the mainland ferry appeared at 3 pm, and I was only too keen to get back on it. 24 hours I'd spent here. I'd walked well over 50 km and felt like I'd crammed a week's worth of activity into a day. I'm not ashamed to say I slept the entire ferry ride, bus ride and train ride back to Edinburgh - half waking up to move between the different vehicles. Eventually (after another few km walk) I found myself back in my own bed. More comfy than a tent for sure. But when your tent is on top of a mountain on an island in the middle of nowhere... sometimes, somehow you do miss being in that tent.

Image
Hissing swans!

Image
Ah hah, looks like a lovely spot for breakfast. And in this heat, the palm trees don't look too odd!

Image
Distillation!

Image
And some whisky (I only tried one of these... I mostly got to try the below the counter stuff! yum!
Attachments

our_route.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

Last edited by Stefan1 on Mon Jul 23, 2018 12:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Stefan1
 
Posts: 35
Joined: Oct 12, 2017

Re: A night on Jura

Postby Mal Grey » Sun Jul 08, 2018 10:10 pm

Outstanding images, what a place to spend the night. Quite a trip, good effort for cramming in such a lot in a short trip, and for a fair distance.

The really remote bits of Jura are those of the northwest coast, beyond Loch Tarbert. As you say, though, you don't exactly see loads of people in the "popular" end!

I will never forget climbing to the summit from the east, aged 16, and suddenly this view of endless sparkling sea, studded with islands, appeared as the hill fell away in front of me.

I sleep very, very well in a tent. :lol:
User avatar
Mal Grey
Wanderer
 
Posts: 4617
Munros:113   Corbetts:23
Fionas:12   
Sub 2000:9   Hewitts:116
Wainwrights:71   Islands:6
Joined: Dec 1, 2011
Location: Surrey, probably in a canoe! www.wildernessisastateofmind.co.uk

Re: A night on Jura

Postby John Doh » Sun Jul 08, 2018 10:35 pm

Brilliant stuff :clap:
User avatar
John Doh
 
Posts: 259
Sub 2000:2   
Islands:39
Joined: Aug 14, 2013
Location: Switzerland

Re: A night on Jura

Postby iangpark » Mon Jul 09, 2018 1:51 am

Good grief Stefan those pictures are breathtaking - straight out of a fantasy film/game. The views to the Treshnish Isles in particular. Jura is immeasurably high on my go-to-one-day list - this is not helping me keep it bottled up. Hardly a better way to spend your time out in the 'wilderness' - well done!
User avatar
iangpark
Mountain Walker
 
Posts: 318
Munros:81   Corbetts:17
Fionas:24   Donalds:89+52
Sub 2000:80   Hewitts:13
Wainwrights:16   Islands:11
Joined: Dec 29, 2015
Location: Kelty

Re: A night on Jura

Postby Phil the Hill » Wed Jul 11, 2018 1:03 pm

Awesome photos and a well-written report. I love your campsite on the patch of moss.

If I did that trip I'd be terribly weighed down by bottles of whisky by the end!
User avatar
Phil the Hill
Walker
 
Posts: 411
Munros:274   Corbetts:30
Fionas:12   Donalds:13
Sub 2000:38   Hewitts:136
Wainwrights:63   Islands:25
Joined: Sep 22, 2010
Location: Wallington, Surrey

Re: A night on Jura

Postby litljortindan » Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:04 pm

Great stuff. Not a disappointing sunset at all I'd say and certainly an awesome sunrise with some excellent and striking photos.
Did you turn off at Cnocbreac on your way up or did you carry on north from there?
User avatar
litljortindan
Ambler
 
Posts: 2378
Munros:153   Corbetts:67
Fionas:29   Donalds:1
Sub 2000:47   Hewitts:12
Wainwrights:10   
Joined: Dec 11, 2011

Re: A night on Jura

Postby Sunset tripper » Fri Jul 20, 2018 2:54 pm

Great pictures and a great place. :D
User avatar
Sunset tripper
 
Posts: 2965
Joined: Nov 3, 2013
Location: Inverness

Re: A night on Jura

Postby malky_c » Fri Jul 20, 2018 3:03 pm

Missed this one - some spectacular photos in there (and not just the sunset/sunrise ones either). What impresses me most is that you managed to find somewhere on the summit of Beinn an Oir to put a tent up, which is no mean feat 8)
User avatar
malky_c
 
Posts: 6342
Munros:282   Corbetts:222
Fionas:219   Donalds:80+37
Sub 2000:315   Hewitts:281
Wainwrights:140   Islands:39
Joined: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Glasgow/Inverness

Re: A night on Jura

Postby Sgurr » Fri Jul 20, 2018 3:54 pm

I loved the photo of your little yellow tent, followed immediately by what I took at first to be tent zoomed, and then realised was the light on the summit. Great photos. Husband completed the Grahams on Chaolais so the paps always seem special.
User avatar
Sgurr
Munro compleatist
 
Posts: 5679
Munros:282   Corbetts:222
Fionas:219   Donalds:89+52
Sub 2000:569   Hewitts:172
Wainwrights:214   Islands:58
Joined: Nov 15, 2010
Location: Fife

Re: A night on Jura

Postby arjh » Fri Jul 20, 2018 11:44 pm

Absolutely spectacular :clap:
User avatar
arjh
Wanderer
 
Posts: 157
Munros:116   Corbetts:27
Fionas:14   Donalds:13+8
Sub 2000:11   Hewitts:316
Wainwrights:187   Islands:6
Joined: Sep 5, 2015
Location: Sussex

Re: A night on Jura

Postby RichardMurchie » Fri Aug 31, 2018 10:09 pm

Unbelievable pictures. What camera did you use?
RichardMurchie
 
Posts: 7
Munros:10   Corbetts:9
Fionas:3   Donalds:3
Sub 2000:7   
Islands:13
Joined: Jul 10, 2018

16 people think this report is great.
Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).




Can you help support Walkhighlands?


Our forum is free from adverts - your generosity keeps it running.
Can you help support Walkhighlands and this community by donating by direct debit?



Return to Walk reports - Scotland

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: JimmyJo941, mavismargherita, tony-c, tweedledog and 86 guests