At the col, the bitey insects had gone, though the flies remained, despite a slight breeze. After some dithering, we decided to carry on. The terrain now became much rockier, but the boulders here are quite stable and the going reasonable. About halfway up, we heard a large rockfall in a gully off to the right, probably triggered by the heat! Higher up the ridge becomes a bit more well defined. The final section is a bit scrambly, and we took a detour round the left side to avoid the steepest section, before threading our way through boulders to the summit, which consists of a huge perched granite block. Despite the heat and the continued attention of the flies, the views were stunning, with the sea mirror-calm below and the islands seeming to float above it.
We decided to make a circuit by descending the other ridge. To begin with we had to pick a way through jumbles of giant boulders, but we soon got onto easier terrain towards the col. The descent from here had looked OK from below, but on closer inspection it turned out to be a mix of unstable boulders and low birch scrub. This took us some time to negotiate, before rejoining the path near the small lake. Some of the birch woods here have sadly been decimated by moth caterpillar infestations in recent years, leaving many trees dead and dying. We hurried on down, keen to escape the insects: a small bonus was spotting some twinflowers in the woods.
Online map
Coming out of the trees - Senja in the distance

Bremnestinden, Ryptinden and Breidtinden

Styrmannen and Stappen

Ersfjord

The upper ridge

Looking north

Håja

Sessøya

Rekvik village and Skamtinden (right)

Ersfjord - Hollendaren is the most prominent peak

Tussøya, Sommerøy and Senja

Bremnestinden

Sessøya again

Sørtinden
