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Since climbing Beinn Sguilard in 2000 it's been at the back of my mind to return some day and walk the long ridge of Beinn Fhionnlaidh. A week's holiday with family at Banavie gave an opportunity and Moira agreed to meet me in Fort William to continue the journey down to Glen Creran. We parked at the end of the public road and headed through the gate posts following the signs for Glen Etive and Glenure Lodge.
Crossed the River Creran
Heading for Glenure Lodge at foot of Beinn Sgulaird
Before reaching Glenure Lodge we took a left fork in front of a new house towards a white cottage and barn, following a rough track to the left towards a plantation of conifers, then took a right turn onto a smaller track through the plantation. This track curves round and emerges on to a muddy turning area just beyond the trees. At this point at least two paths continue down and over a stream before beginning the ascent of the long ridge of Beinn Fhionnlaidh. The track we initially followed appeared to be running parallel to the burn so we changed course and found another path higher up which we followed for most of the way to the two lochans.
End of track
Glen Creran
Guessing this is Fraochaidh - against a stunning blue sky
I had imagined slogging up pathless grassy slopes so found it easier than expected with an actual path to follow and although it disappeared at times it always turned up again. It was a warm day and with the higher temperature there was the inevitable haze so the hoped for views out to sea weren't clear and the peak of Ben More on Mull could only be imagined!
Zoomed to a hazy Loch Creran
SE to Etive peaks
Glen Ure and track to Glen Etive at base of Beinn Sgulaird
Ridge stretching east
Moira was feeling the effects of the sun and when we reached the first of the two lochans she decided to call it a day. As we sat by the lochan for a snack we discussed our options. There was still a third of the distance to cover so an obvious option was for both of us to turn back at this point. But Moira knew that returning to the area after 19 years I was keen to do this one so she suggested I go on while she wait by the lochan, reading her book (on her phone) while I continued. I didn't know what to do. On the one hand I didn't like leaving her for what could be quite a long wait. On the other hand it was warm and sunny so she'd be fine staying there and if I didn't complete the climb she would probably feel bad about it.
First of two lochans
I looked at the ridge rising beyond the lochans and wanted to get up there. But if I was going to go I knew I shouldn't hang about any longer. So I said I'd give it an hour and see where I'd got to and if it turned out to be too far I'd turn back. I skirted the north side of both lochans (the opposite side to where there was a path which I found on the descent) and started up the steeper part of the ridge.
The going was fine with some rocky sections higher up, but no difficulties. I met a group of 8 coming down who were quite spread out, stood and chatted with some of them but apart from that didn't stop until I met a couple with a collie and had a wee blether with them, asking how much further it was to the summit. They said 20 minutes should do it which would take me slightly over the hour I'd allowed myself but was so close it would have been daft to have turned back before reaching it.
I told them my pal was waiting at the second lochan on the way down and asked if they could tell her what time I should reach the top so she'd have an idea when to expect me back. They said they would. To be honest I didn't like leaving her and still wasn't sure I'd done the right thing.
Nose of Beinn Fhionnlaidh's ridge
Heading for summit
Beinn Fhionnlaidh summit (959m)
I reached the trig point exactly when the couple had said I would, took a few quick photos, didn't even stop to take a drink and turned right round to retrace my steps. As I was leaving I passed two other couples in quick succession who were heading for the summit. One commented that this ***** ridge seemed to go on for ever! I probably should have stopped for a quick refuel but just wanted to get back to Moira so didn't feel relaxed about doing that. Anyway here are the photos I took from the summit into the haze, so not the best. But at least I wasn't in cloud and seeing nothing.
Bidean nam Bian left, Buachaille Etive Mor right
West out to sea
Zoomed to Ben Starav and a hazy Loch Etive
A patch of snow and Beinn a' Bheithir
Beinn a' Bheithir again
Heading back down the ridge to the lochans
The descent was straighforward and took 10 minutes less than the ascent but at one point I lost the path and ended up on steep ground where a slip wouldn't have been a good thing so edged down very carefully. Once back on track I picked up speed and was soon passing the two lochans on the south side where there was a pretty good path.
Can't see my pal yet
Once I spotted Moira sitting on the far side of the lochan where I'd left her I waved and indicated I'd go on to find a sheltered spot as the wind was now quite strong. It turned out the couple with the collie had been true to their word and had made a detour to where Moira was to tell her I'd be about 20 minutes behind them, which I was. Grateful to them for that.
We found a place behind a boulder with a bit of shelter from the wind, but I was sorry to see how cold Moira was despite having all available layers on. The last half hour after the wind had picked up she hadn't been able to find any effective shelter and it had been an uncomfortable wait. I felt bad about that but hoped once we got moving again she would warm up, which she did.
We retraced our steps down the ridge, at one point losing the path before finding it again lower down. The main focus of interest on this part of the descent was Beinn Sgulaird which I'd climbed on an even warmer day in July 2000 and ran out of liquids in the process - a salutary experience not yet to be repeated (so far!).
Steep flanks of Beinn Sgulaird
Once on the track through the plantation it was easy walking back to the car, passing the group of deer grazing just beyond the deer fence round Glenure Lodge, exactly where they'd been when we passed them in the morning. On the drive home we were glad we were only going as far as Banavie, where a meal was waiting for us and we could start thinking about the first stage of the Great Glen Way that we were doing the next morning.
Sun setting over Ardgour from Ballachulish on our way home
But the question is had I done the right thing going on and leaving Moira? I don't know.... I'm glad I got to the summit and it was unlikely I'd be back on this hill so it was my only chance. But I didn't like leaving her for that length of time. Maybe she'd have been better starting the descent and heading slowly back to the car. Any thoughts anyone?