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Yesterday (or yesterday from when we were there, not when I am writing this) we walked from Lochan Fada to Gleann na Muice via A'Mhaighdhean and Ruadh-Stac Mor and camped on the glen floor at a height of 220metres. Today we were planning this route:
It was COLD. we had our summer tent, but kept most of our clothes on inside our sleeping bags. This is a spot that does not get either evening or morning sun. There was ice on the inside of the flysheet in the morning. Rudolph made me a nice cup of peppermint tea which was almost passable. Anyone who knows me, knows that I drink tea as if it was going out of fashion so not having any milk because it had all curdled was a terrible blow, as I cannot manage it black. Even so, I was grateful to Rudolph for being the one who gets up and puts the kettle on.
We were a bit earlier up and going than the previous day, because we were woken by the sound of a helicopter. We watched it circling around An Teallach as we walked, and wondered what it was doing. We learnt later that it was recovering the body of Johnny Paton, who had tragically failed to return from climbing An Teallach the previous day.
But of course we did not know this as we were walking on this beautiful Tuesday.
- An Teallach from camp in the morning
We set off up the steep slope towards Loch a’Bhrisidh on a rising traverse. It wasn’t too bad really – a lot better than going straight up! There were one or two fairly deep water cut gullies on the lower slopes but with no real difficulty to negotiate.
- Beinn Dearg Mor from the lower slopes of Gleann na Muice
We had plenty of stops to rest and nibble, and after about an hour of walking and climbing, the sunrise reached us at last. We reached the loch, which is at about 550metres, at about 10.50amfeeling like we had had a long climb, but actually we had only done 330m and still had another 440 to go.
- Loch a'Brisidh from its northeastern corner
- it looks different every time you look at it
We decided to skirt the loch on the left (northern) side which looked like it would give us an easier climb up to the ridge than the southern side. It was good going with traces of path and a beautiful spot. We’d had a vague plan to camp here the night before but actually the camp spot we had was much better and we didn’t have the energy to climb up here as it had turned out.
We’d intended to go up to the ridge and then follow it to the summit, but as we climbed it became apparent that this would involve large boulder fields whereas climbing up via the shallow corrie would be more grassy and smoother underfoot. It was reassuring to find traces of boot prints as we proceeded.
We stopped for a rest looking over Loch a’Bhrisidh and watched a couple and a dog climbing the other side of the loch, initially below us, but it was not long before they were well ahead of us. We wondered if they were doing the full circuit and certainly they were making good time. We were grateful to them later for their footprints in the snow.
- Looking to Beinn a' Chlaidheimh which we decided to miss out
- \lovely loch again looking west
- This rock formation looked like a sofa - or perhaps those stone seats you get on the walls of mediaeval churches.
- Beinn a'Chlaidheimh and Beinn Dearg Mor with its interesting hanging corrie
- Loch na Sealga and an Teallach and the sea behind. we could see bits of island (Gruinard, summer isles?) but they don't come out on the photo
At last we reached the top of Stob Ban and by this time the couple ahead of us had already gone. It was cold and we were a bit nervous about the next hill so we didn't hang about for long. But I did take a few photies.
- Fannaichs from the top of Stob Ban
- Rudolph looking thoughtful, Fannaichs behind
- me, An Teallach behind
- Rime on the cairn, looking to the distant Deargs. We could even see as far as Ben Klibreck and Ben More Assynt, though it does not come out in photos
The snow on the south side of the hill was a bit slushy having had some sun on it but the descent was straight forward, apart from looking over to Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair and thinking " how the *&^% are we going to get up there?"
- Heading to Mullach CoireMhic Fhearchar
But this is where the people ahead of us had come in handy. We watched them ascending without any trouble at all and were able to follow their footprints over the boulders at the bottom to the path which winds through the scree.
I had a bit of a wobble on the boulders at the bottom and lost my balance, almost recovered it, but then tumbled over, landing on a rock on my left bum cheek. I didn't hurt anything but my dignity, but later on after we were home wondered why this bit ached so much, then I saw the bruise! It did give me a little bit of a fright at the time, considering we were so far from home.
Because of the snow cover the path had not been obvious until we were on it, but actually the snow was really helpful here as it was nice and crunchy and held things together; I think it was probably easier than it would have been without.
The climb is steep and brutal but only 200metres of ascent (one Roseberry Topping) and when we reached the top it was perfect, with sun, no wind whatsoever, and definitely time for lunch. As we had our lunch we watched several people making their way up Beinn Tarsuinn and disappearing down the other side.
- By Gum she's a steep so and so, need a wee breather in this snow flurry to take a picture of where we were yesterday.
- and another one to take a picture of where we are going!
- made it at last! looking West
- need a rest before we tackle these
- we've been there!
- Rudolph getting a brew on with the happy mugs. observant people will notice he now has an orange one, as his green one has gone missing and anyway it had lost its smile
From here we made our way down the other side where the snow was a bit more slushy having been in the sunshine.
- looking back to the summit of M C Mc F
the bypass path of Meall Garbh is very straightforward and was below the snow line, and we soon reached Bealach Odhar, where we dumped our rucksacks, stuffed our pockets with snacks and stuff, and set off uphill, so much easier without the big overnight sacks.
We looked at the Tennis Court from the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn, but neither of us felt any compelling need to stand on it. We were ready to go down hill and find a camp spot.
- the Tennis Court from the top of Beinn Tarsuinn
- Rudolph contemplating the wrong way down
- me on Beinn Tarsuinn looking pooped!
From Bealach Odhar you descend past several burns in gorges which converge on each other and these need to be on your right or you get into trouble. As soon as we reached the gorges we found a lovely path which took us all the way to our original campsite, meeting up with the stalkers path from the Heights of Kinlochewe. When we arrived there was already a tent pitched nearby and shortly after we pitched another arrived as well but we all kept out of each others' ways and a peaceful night was had by all. At least if it wasn't I didn't notice as I was asleep by nine and didn't wake up until 8am!!
I have run out of attachments so I will post some more pictures and text in a reply.