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I first climbed Blencathra earlier in 2019, when snow was lying, visibility was poor, and my crampons got their first taste of a Lakeland Fell. I say climbed, but really it was a trudge up one of the 'easy' routes, via Blease Fell. I looked forward to summer, when I'd return to enjoy the apparently breathtaking views from this (according to AW) 'mountaineer's mountain'. That day was yesterday, but the weather forecasts were not looking too good. With an unfounded optimism, we set off for Mungrisdale. I say we - this was a day of real luxury, as my friend Laura had agreed to join me. It would be her first Wainwright walk, and she also drives. Normally it takes two train journeys and a bus for me to get anywhere even near the fells, so parking up at Mungrisdale and finding myself on the path within just minutes gave me a taste of the pleasures of being a hillwalker with a set of wheels.
Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
I'd chosen a fairly easy route for today, partly because I was 'testing out' a knee which has given me some trouble lately, and partly because it was Laura's first time in the fells. Leaving Mungrisdale village hall (where they make a very reasonable request for an even more reasonable parking fee of £2 a day, payable at the honesty box in the wall at the top end of the hall) we followed the easy, gently-sloping path skirting the southern slopes of The Tongue. AW described this path as 'the easiest route to any summit over 2000' in Lakeland' and so it proved. There were nice views of Bannerdale Crags as we ascended, but these soon gave way to the low-lying mist and by the time we were at the top of the path and heading up to the summit of Bowscale Fell, there was nothing to be seen. Still, another hill climbed.
Laura: 1, me: 61. On the way up we bumped into two other walkers, the only other people we'd see all day. "It's nice to meet other fellow idiots" one of them said, and we had a laugh about the fact we were going to see nothing but white all day
Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
Leaving Bowscale Fell we dropped back down to the path above the crags, and walked around to eventually reach the second summit of the day, Bannerdale Crags. Even when you can't see anything, there is always something magical about being up in the hills. The wind and rain had subsided, and good conversation flowed as we wandered through the mist, like we were miles from anywhere. Hard to believe the busy A66 was just over the next summit.
Laura: 2, me: 62.Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
We descended to the col and had a break. We talked about options. Do we descend the easy path back to Mungrisdale already? Do we take the higher path back to the saddle between Souther Fell and Scales Fell? Do we head on up to Blencathra? Or do we take THAT option that I really don't want to mention? The path to Mungrisdale Common?
I've not read a single positive thing about MC, and despite my being a seasoned bog-trotter now (it seems to be my lot on almost every walk these days
), could I really expect Laura to wander over this featureless, misty, wet, boggy ground just so I could locate and 'tick-off' a 'summit' that even AW had no time for? I'm a lucky man, because this friend said yes to the idea, and endured a walk I wouldn't wish on an enemy. Tick.
Laura: 3, me: 63.Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
From Mungrisdale Common we followed the way across the moor and approached Blencathra 'the back way', emerging at the screes above Foule Crag. As we followed the ridge we both got that sense of the dramatic drop to our left, even though we couldn't see anything. I'd hoped to show Laura Sharp Edge (if I ever decided to stop ascending Blencathra the easy way, it'll be on the cards...) and Scales Tarn. Instead, we just about made out the cross and the tarn on the summit plateau, and found ourselves at the trig base at 868m a few minutes later. Second time up this mountain, and still not a view of anything!
Laura: 4, me: still 63.Untitled by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
"Did I ever tell you about the horrendous snowy storm last time I was up here, I was almost on my knees, clutching my axe as I came up that path, there...."
"Yes, you might have mentioned it once or twice"
From Blencathra it was simply a case of following the good path down the ridge, until Scales Fell, and down to the saddle, where we dropped down to the footbridge under White Horse bent and followed the path alongside the River Glenderamackin, all the way back to Mungrisdale. The path looked easy, but following the recent rains, there had been landslips and flooding, and that last 'easy' walk back to the car turned into quite an expedition. We both fell a little quiet as we negotiated our way, and part of me wished I'd suggested a different walk, and some different fells.
Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
At Mungrisdale, we headed straight into the pub and reflected on the day. I'm still not quite sure if Laura has been inspired to walk more fells, or whether she has been put off for life. What I do know is that for even the most solitary of hillwalkers like me, there is something special about a shared experience. Sharing these beautiful fells with a good friend makes for a welcome change now and then. But if there's to be a next time, perhaps I should let Laura choose the hills.
Walking in The Lake District by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr