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After climbing the Loch Lochy munros, we drove round to Glenfinnan, where we found that the car park at the end of the track was closed with a locked gate and boulders across the parking area. We went to the NTS car park and popped into the visitor centre and they were happy for us to leave the car overnight.
When my mum was a little girl during WW2, she used to travel by train from Glasgow to Glenfinnan and then get a steamer down Loch Shiel to stay with her grandparents at Acharacle. Last summer my mum and I went to have a look for the old pier, arriving at Glenfinnan shortly before 11am and being treated to the amazing spectacle of the field in front of the viaduct being full of literally hundreds of people staring through their phones at the viaduct waiting for the "Harry Potter train" to come through. We also visited the monument and discovered that the guide there was probably a distant relative on my father's side.
This time it was not quite so busy but there were still lots of people around humming Hedwig's theme and coming and going.
After some faffing about and sorting fresh gas and food supplies, we got on our bikes for the ride up the tarmac road to Corryhully. It's a smooth road and a fine cycle for someone who does not really like cycling. We decided to go a bit beyond Corryhully where the track becomes very rough and steep. We made it as far as the ford at 917850 before deciding we needed to stop, find a flat place for the tent and eat some grub. It took a bit of hunting about but we found a spot some distance above the track which included a handy plank for sitting on and balancing the stove on. By the time we got the tent pitched and ate our grub it was getting dark and time for bed.
It was a windy night but we had our 4 season tent so no worries there (having been hit in the head by bending tent poles in the past it was comforting). In the morning there was the sound of light rain on the tent which was not what we were promised, but it stopped pretty much as we emerged and the day got better and better, with the cloud base gradually lifting and the sun coming out.
- camp in the morning
We took the WH route anticlockwise as recommended. We left our bikes and camping equipment in the grass and set off about 9am. The route up to Sgurr Thuilm is marked with a neat little sign.
I took a lot of photos and it is difficult to pick just 25 but I will have to try.
- Here comes the sun over the top of Streap
- today's ridge
- Top of Sgurr Thuilm appearing
At about 11am we heard a hooting sound and turned round just in time to see the steam train crossing the viaduct away in the distance.
We were caught up by two chaps from Manchester who were faster than us, and passed us when we stopped just short of the summit of Sgurr Thuilm for our first lunch at about 12. We didn't see another soul all day, but we heard a lot of roaring stags!
- Happy mugs at first lunch, view to Stob Coire nan Cearc along the ridge from Streap
- Gulvain behind, that's tomorrow's plan
- Rudolph on Sgurr Thuilm, behind him the route onwards and Rum Cuillin in the distance
- me too
It is definitely a rough ridge with a lot of up and down, and we were so pleased that it was clear and sunny, as the views are tremendous!
- View over to Knoydart and the Rough Bounds, Ladhar Bheinn is in the centre
- Loch Arkaig
- the dramatic ridge coming off Sgurr Thuilm
- Knoydart, place of wonder mystery and delight! (and exhaustion as I recall!)
- another view of Sgurr nan Coireachan as we round another corner
- Loch Arkaig again
- I like this one, Sgurr na Ciche becoming easier to make out in the middle, far distance is Beinn Sgritheall, Knoydart hills to the left of that.
- Looking back along the ridge to Sgurr Thuilm, loch Arkaig in the distance again
- Rudolph on Sgurr nan Coireachan
- And me, trying not to look too knackered. I think I managed
We stopped for pudding (freeze dried papaya and pineapple, surprisingly tasty and restorative) and another cuppa on the summit of Sgurr nan Coireachan. While we were stopped we could see some bits of weather closing in from the west with Skye disappearing into cloud.
- Distant Ben Nevis with her hat off
The route down from here is very steep and at times we wondered how we were going to get down the next bit, but at each stage the way became apparent.
- The way down is steeper than the picture suggests. Goes to the top on the left, then down the back of it, not down the obvious ridge to the right.
- a small shower and a rainbow on the ridge
- looking back down Glenfinnan
- moody view to the West now
We were glad to arrive at the top of the stalkers path and a straightforward easy gradient back to the track.
- back on the track
And for some reason, as we reached the track, the old Celtic blessing came to mind. "May the road rise to meet you, may the wind be always at your back, may the sun shine warm upon your face, may the rain fall soft upon your field, and until we meet again, may God hold you in the palm of his hand."
And with that thought in mind, we looked back at the hills we had climbed
retrieved our bicycles, and whizzed back down to the car arriving back at just on 6pm.