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Another update from my recent cycle tour starting with the ferry to Rum from my wild camping spot near Mallaig.
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It was raining when I woke up, but I couldn’t be late for the ferry to Rum, so I braved packing away my tent in the rain, and made my way to the ferry terminal. The ferry was extremely busy because there was a private party to be held at the castle and all the guests (about 150 of them) were on board. This was an unusual time to be heading for Rum, normally a quiet island with just a few visitors. Indeed, the boat was far larger and far busier than I had expected.
The ferry crossing was long, lasting around 2.5 hours. As I arrived on Rum, the cloud was burning off rapidly, and the skies soon cleared. This left dramatic views of the mists lifting and swirling around Rum’s Cuillin mountains.
Cloud clinging to the Cuillins of Rum
View of Rum and Eigg from the ferry
When I arrived on the island I made my way to the castle (as did all the Ceilidh guests). I was pleased that the weather had by then brightened substantially, and there were fine views over Loch Scresort. At the castle, I paid to use the laundry facilities and waited until I had some clean clothes in which to go walking for the afternoon and escape the bustle of the private party. Although some of the guests hinted that I might be able to surreptitiously join the evening’s Ceilidh (Scottish dance), I did not want to intrude. I therefore decided that an ascent of Askival, Rum’s highest point, would be a better idea, especially when I couldn’t guarantee another afternoon of fine weather.
Loch Scresort, Kinloch
Kinloch Castle, Rum
By about 3:30pm I was setting off on my walk, aiming first for the 723m Hallival and then the 812m summit of Askival. The walk began with a steady burnside climb up to Corrie Dubh, providing good views back to Kinloch.
View back to Loch Scresort and Kinloch
Stony path on the ascent
Later from the slopes of Hallival I enjoyed marvellous views of the Rum Cuillin ridge, and south to Eigg. The clouds, swirling above and below me, sweeping up the valleys and flirting with the hillsides, were awe-inspiring and made the landscape seem ethereal.
Hallival, towering in the mist
Dramatic view down Atlantic Corrie into Glen Harris
View NW from slopes of Hallival
Askival and Trollabhal shrouded in mist
Askival from Hallival
View to Eigg
I did not quite reach the summit of Hallival, because although I was close, it required scrambling and after the scary incident on Arran’s A’Chir ridge a few days previously I decided against the risk. Askival looked terrifying enough – jagged, pointy and steep – and I decided to push on towards it. In reality the ascent was manageable and I bypassed an awkward bit of scrambling, although there were some exposed and airy moments.
The narrow ridge leading to Askival
Me at the top of Askival (self-timer)
The views from the top were well worth the climb: a large amount of Scotland’s dramatic west coast was visible – the Isle of Skye, its pointy Cuillins, and closer by, the Isle of Eigg. The views were very clear, although a front was quickly moving in from the west, so I headed on down the mountainside, scrambling across rocky scree. In one hair-raising moment, I dislodged a boulder, sending a cascade of rocks tumbling and ricocheting violently down the mountainside. I realised that the scree was unstable and that if a rock slipped above me the results could easily be fatal. The mist was flowing quickly down the mountainside, so I cut directly down the hillside to the coast path. It soon began to rain heavily, and I walked along towards Kinloch as fast as I could. The coast path had lost its usually spectacular views and I still had four miles to walk in the rain. To make matters worse, the path crossed several burns which were quite deep in places – I completely gave up any hope of keeping my feet dry. By the time I returned, I was drenched and then had to pitch my tent in the dark, by which time the rain had eased off just enough to allow the midges to strike with a vengeance!
Hallival in front of the Isle of Skye, from Askival
View from the summit
Eigg and Muck, from Askival
Eigg sandwiched between the rocks
Mist sweeping down the hillside
