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We are currently half way through our Graham journey and though it's unlikely we're ever going to finish the list, the "lesser Corbetts" have given us so much fun that we don't regret a single day spent on them rather than chasing the Munro tally. Some Grahams are just handy additions to bigger mountains, some are great for shorter winter days, but certain Grahams are in a league of their own and should be put on the list of hills Compulsory-For-Everyone. These are the mountains any walker wants to return to again and again, little marvels of nature, free playgrounds for adults. Ben More Coigach is one of such hills. The full traverse of this Assynt gem, in combination with its pointy neighbour Sgurr an Fhidhleir, is one of the best ridge walks in northern Scotland. Sometimes referred to as "mini-Quinag", the Coigach-Fhidhleir duo offers mind-boggling views to the surrounding higher hills as well as a lot of optional scrambling and boulder-hopping.
We had visited Ben Mor Coigach and Sgurr an Fhidhleir in 2012 so the duo was due a re-visit. The mountain is cared for by Scottish Wildlife Trust which means no stalking issues. The previous time, we added Beinn nan Caorach to the circuit, today we visited two more tops, including Speicein Coinnich. The day started on a cloudy note, but later it developed into a great, sunny afternoon, so we spent a lot of time lurking around, taking photos, admiring views and practicing scrambling. Some might say, we made it more difficult for ourselves, but where would be the fun in hillwalking otherwise?...
The WH route goes anticlockwise, up the western ridge of Ben More Coigach first, but we prefer to tackle the circuit clockwise, starting from the small parking area just above Achiltibuie and heading straight up Beinn nan Caorach. It is possible to add one more top, Conmheall (visible behind me in the picture below), but we didn't bother:
We were the first visitors to arrive but within an hour the small car park was full and more cars were still coming, parking in laybys and on the grassy verges everywhere. Well, obviously it pays to be an early bird sometimes
When we started walking, weather was still capricious and we expected a shower or two to pass before it turned for the better. The tops of higher hills were still covered in cloud, but it was lifting slowly.
Conmheall shaking off the clag:
The initial climb followed boggy ground, overgrown with heather and bog myrtle. There was no path and midges were ferocious. Higher up, the surface is drier and mostly grassy, easier walking. Good views west to the Summer Isles:
Higher up, we found a deer path which crossed Allt Tarsuinn (reduced to a tiny burn now) and aimed for the western end of the ridge of Beinn nan Caorach. The climb was uneventful apart from stops for pictures, to capture the cloud moving over the hills across Loch Broom:
About 50m below the summit of our first objective, we entered the weird world of pancake-shaped rocks:
Beinn nan Caorach is a good warm up for all the scrambling and rock-hopping which comes later:
As the cloud thinned, we spotted the familiar shape of Stac Pollaidh:
On the col between Beinn nan Caorach and Conmheall, a group of trolls turned to stone sits on the shore of a small lochan:
On the rocks of Beinn nan Caorach with Conmheall and the Summer Isles behind:
Kevin is a fan of pancakes
More pancakes
We took over 800 photos that day and I spent hours trying to reduce the number to the 40 allowed... No chance. It's simply not possible to tell the full story of these two Grahams (and extra tops) in just 40 snaps, try as I might...
The best snaps were of course the panoramas, like the one below, showing the whole length of Garbh Coireachan ridge and the easy route up Sgurr an Fhidhleir in the foreground:
View east from the summit of Beinn nan Caorach to Sgurr an Fhidhleir (right), the unnamed 648m top (left), Beinn an Eoin and Stac Pollaidh in the background:
With Lucy on the summit of Beinn nan Caorach:
After a short snack break on the top of Beinn nan Caorach, we continued east towards Sgurr an Fhidhleir, but before heading for the Graham, we wanted to take a quick detour to the unnamed 648m top, hoping for some nice views from the edge of the cliffs. En route, we walked past many interesting rocks, like this one - a rhino?
Kevin posing with Assynt weirdos:
The rock to the right of me looks like an ancient stone tank
We noticed people on the summit of Sgurr an Fhidhleir, they must have started later than us but probably went up the easiest route. We didn't really care about time today, it was all about enjoying the experience rather than breaking any records.
Heading for the 648m top:
Beinn nan Caorach seen from the col between the two summits:
It's only 50m of ascent from the col to the unnamed top, sadly when we got there, we didn't get any views at all. Guess why.
Kevin disappointed...
The mist was patchy and through the gaps we caught a glimpse of the cliffs below...
After waiting for a few minutes for the clag to lift, we grew impatient and decided to move on. Our next objective was Sgurr an Fhidhleir, the first of the two Grahams. The traverse follows the edge of the cliffs most of the time, and as soon as the cloud began to lift, we could appreciate the breathtaking beauty of this rugged landscape. Simply amazing.
Our next target:
Kevin took every opportunity to stop and take a few snaps; seen here with Beinn an Eoin in the background:
Panoramic snap of the two Grahams - Sgurr an Fhidhleir and Beinn an Eoin. The latter is best climbed from the north-east, including Sgorr Tuath (our route described
HERE).
Back to here and now, Beinn an Eoin served as fantastic background for posing on the edge of the cliffs:
A different angle with Stac Pollaidh also in the frame, at this point the clag came back for a short time, spoiling the views:
The cliffs now reminded me of a giant cooking pot with the mist lingering around:
As we gained height on the steep ascent to Sgurr an Fhidhleir, we witnessed the game of cat and mouse played by mountains and clag:
Breathtaking spectacle of misty patches crawling up the steep slopes of Assynt hills - not a view we will quickly forget!
These cliffs are monumental. At their highest point, they reach 400m. I don't know if they are the highest in Assynt but they definitely are impressive!
I tried to find small pockets of scrambling on this side of Sgurr an Fhidhleir but there wasn't much (unless I considered rock climbing
):
Considering the amount of time we spent taking photos, it was a miracle we reached the summit at all
It was a new Graham for Lucy (her no. 91):
So far, it was a grey day with lingering mist, but as we rested on the summit of Sgurr an Fhidhleir, weather started to improve and quite rapidly, the cloud was gone. In less than half an hour a misty morning turned into a beautiful, sunny afternoon.
Ben Mor Coigach from Sgurr an Fhidhleir:
We took time descending to the 545m col between the two hills. With improving weather, more and more delightful views were revealed. We had plenty of time to admire them...
Beinn an Eoin and Loch Tuath:
400m high cliffs of Sgurr an Fhidhleir - maybe not the highest in Assynt but certainly jaw-dropping:
Panoramic view of Beinn an Eoin, Loch Tuath and Sgurr an Fhidhleir:
Under the spell of the Assynt landscape:
WH route ascends the N side of Bern Mor Coigach by following a line of a dried stream, but we thought it would be more fun to stick to the edge of the cliffs and practice some scrambling! Plus views are better this way.
It was my idea but Kevin had nothing against it. His knee has recovered and he's more than happy to clamber over rocks, especially with such views around!
