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EDIT: New slightly improved photo scans addedHere's a report from a few years ago. I've been meaning to add some winter Cuillin reports for a while now. An amazing day out on Sgurr Sgumain and Sgurr Alastair was probably the best experience, but this one has the best photos (although they are not as good as the original prints).
Travelled up to Glen Brittle on the Friday night in a rather cramped minibus with the university climbing club. Snow on Skye was right down to the road, and the final descent down to the glen was a bit hairy. After a reasonable night's sleep in the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut, we woke to a fair looking day. Cloud was down low on the ridge, but there was sun in the sky. There was fresh snow was right down to the beach.
Will, Dave Dmitri and I decided to head up towards the Inn Pinn, although we didn't expect to climb it in these conditions. We set off up the path which skirts the Eas Mor gorge, and worked our way towards Sgurr Dearg. As we began ascending the steep end of the ridge, the cloud began to clear, revealing tantalising glimpses of Rhum and the coast. At just over 3000 feet, there is a small summit, which marks the end of the walking and the beginning of the scrambling. A quick break here, and the cloud cleared from the surrounding hills completely. This was turning out to be some of the best winter weather ever.
Loch Brittle:
Rhum:
Sgurr Alastair:
Me on way up Sgurr Dearg:
Sgurr Dearg and Inn Pinn:
Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Sgurr Alastair:
Yuppie Dave on summit of Sgurr Dearg:
Conditions underfoot were not so good though. This year might have been an exception, but the temperatures on Skye rarely stay low enough for long enough for snow to consolidate properly. Today was no exception, with all of the features of the ridge covered in piles of fresh powder, useless for baring any weight. It covered up all of the ledges and handholds and made the going awkward. Normally the easiest route to the summit of Sgurr Dearg is to bypass the crest of the arete on the right, but it was impossible to make out the ground here. Instead, we donned crampons (of little use, but better than nothing) and went straight up the crest. This was good fun, with a couple of steeper narrow sections making for some hairy moments.
Sgurr Dearg was reached easily enough, and the Inn Pinn filled the view to the E. Coire Lagan and the surrounding horseshoe was spectacular, and Rhum and South Uist seemed close enough to touch. We had no inclination to even attempt the Inn Pinn, but decided that continuing to Sgurr Mhic Choinnich would be a good move due to the stunning weather (there was no breeze, and it wasn't even that cold).
Bla Bheinn:
Inn Pinn:
The fun began with the descent of the side of An Stac. This is a truly unpleasant route in the summer, made of ball bearing scree and loose rock, so we hoped a good snow covering would maybe improve it. How wrong we were! With no purchase in the powdery snow, and no idea if we were following the easiest route or about to drop off a mini crag, which was nerve wracking. Lower down, it is important to get off the main slope and traverse leftward to avoid a big drop. Most of this was accomplished on arses. Finally things got a bit easier traversing the top of the An Stac Screes and back round onto the main ridge. From here we headed along the fairly flat crest, descending and ascending around the points where a couple of gullies from the E side eat into the ridge line. At the steepening onto Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, we were beaten back by the snow. Will, who was the best climber of the group, had a look at a few options here, but couldn't find a satisfactory way through. Not much hope for the rest of us then! Funnily, this section is barely noticed in the summer, when it is little more than a walk.
Looking back to An Stac:
Sgurr Thearlaich and Sgurr Alastair:
Sgurr Alastair:
Group shot:
Will has a go at Sgurr Mhic Choinnich:
Another lunch stop and a bit of messing around with Dmitri's tripod produced some nice group shots, and it was generally really nice to be in this location, in these conditions, without having to wrap up too much. With Sgurr Mhic Choinnich abandoned, we headed back to the An Stac Screes. This is where I had one of the experiences which has been responsible for my regression in climbing and scrambling abilities. Descending around the tops of the gullies which cut into the ridge, I have never felt so insecure. My feet couldn't find anything to rest on, and my axe was pretty much useless. Under my feet was a 300m drop straight to the floor of Coire Lagan, and somehow, I had to inch my way a few meters down this drop without ending up at the bottom of the corrie. I rather filled my pants as I eased my way down, possibly making a few 'aaaaaaaah' noises, then thankfully all was fine. The worst part is that these gullies are passed without a second glance in summer conditions. Ever since this, I have become gradually more and more cautious when scrambling, which is probably a good thing in some ways, but means I am never going to do some of the things I would have liked (Kings Chimney, Bastier Tooth, TD gap on Skye, NE Buttress on Ben Nevis to name a few).
Traversing under An Stac:
Looking down An Stac Screes:
That fun over, the descent down the An Stac Screes was a doddle, and we ran down the snow slopes. In the corrie, it was warm enough to strip down to a T-shirt, and with the lenghening shadows in the afternoon, the walk out of the corrie was simpy amazing. A good few beers were drunk in the hut that night to celebrate the day's events. I think all of the other groups had had an amazing day out too, but I can't remember where any of them went now!
Out to Rum:
Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Sgurr Alastair:
Sgurr Sgumain:
Walking out of Coire Lagan:
Looking back to Sgurr Dearg and Sgurr Alastair: