JOG - Cape Wrath - April 2010

[norfolk4]

I suppose the whole thing started, for me at least, when my dog died suddenly, from that moment on I wanted an adventure. And for once, when I came out with “shall we walk across Scotland and make our way to Cape Wrath”, the company didn’t laugh or ignore, but decided it was indeed a good idea. Bluff called so to speak.

One of the highest peaks in Norfolk - Birthplace of the World Champion Heavyweight Bare Fisted Boxer Jem Mace - Google him.

We walked through the winter, figuring that a Norfolk winter night may be something akin to a Scottish spring day, it was the closest we had anyway. And then the 4th April came and all of a sudden we were driving north. One of the compensations for such a long drive from the lowlands of Norfolk (highest point: approx 300 feet above sea level) to Scotland is the seeing the country transform into, finally, the rugged majesty of the Scottish mountains. We made it to John O’ Groats and parked up for the standard photograph, before heading to Halkirk which in our infinite wisdom became the starting point.

The very start of the Walk - JOG

We were very lucky with the weather, rain came and went, the wind was lazy (it couldn’t be bothered to go round us, so it just went through us), and the country started to become everything we had planned for…bog, we came to call it ‘The Dead Marshes‘ - Ever seen Lord of the Rings!!. This became a good test of our navigation in the poor weather and declining visibility, we had not, perhaps naively, expected such deceptive, unforgiving and continual bog. Still we were making the transition from clod hopper to bog trotter fairly well and eventually found space to put up the Vango.

Off into ‘The Dead Marshes’ - Reminiscent of Frodo

The Only dry place for miles……………………….literally!!

We awoke to frozen boot laces and a cold clear day to enjoy our breakfast and the scenic bog. After last night we were a bit concerned at the route directly across country, and adjusted to incorporate paths, tracks and damn it, roads. In torrential rain we came across one of the many deer to have faltered last winter, but he made good company in the only shelter we seen for what felt an age.

AJ & BK walking off into the forest

After following the forest tracks we emerged in the village of Reay and we elected to find a camp spot as recommended by the shopkeeper. The walk from here to Melvich was a bit of a slog, eventually we came to the village pub, with a campsite attached. Showers and excellent hot food, and a pint eased us back into the comfort zone. We were questioning ourselves at this point, but after a couple of pints and an offer of a lift part way down the road put us in good spirits.

I read on a Walkhighlands thread about the errors or ‘what an arse’ experiences of people. Well, this was my ‘what an arse’ award moment, as driving along in the car, reaching the drop off point 10 miles or so down the road, I realised that I had left my Paramo Velez Smock in the drying room on the site. We returned, me feeling particularly cowed, the lads were good about it, but man what an arse. Another night at the pub and lamb roasts all round as an apology.

Camping at Halladale Inn - After coming back for the Paramo!!

Starting to wonder if a beach holiday would have been wiser - Recognise it anyone?

The next main stage was to get to Ben Hope, which filled all our time, we would have liked to have spent more time in the little villages and bays around this part of the coast, but the draw of the Ben was always too much. We saw, but skipped Ben Loyal as we had lost some time already, when finally we turned down for the walk to Ben Hope the clouds opened and our wet weather gear got yet another test.

What a sight - The approach to Ben Hope

Arriving at the foot of Ben Hope it was about 3pm, and after a debate about time we decided to go for it. Andy turned back after a short while and I started to hope that Hope would be kind to us. It wasn’t, after all why should it? Myself and Ady got about half way before the weather and the conditions undermined our attempt, we were up to our knees in snow, the weather was taking a turn for the worse and the wind was really starting to pick up, though frustrated we made the right decision and turned back.

Time to turn back - we got to 1860ft.

Andy was kind to us and had the tents up on our return and we endured a stormy night, only to wake to another crisp morning with clear skies. We considered another attempt but supplies and time urged us to the Cape. We had planned to cross country to reach Durness, skirting the bottom of Loch Eribol, however, the bridge had been nicked and the water flowed far too swift to attempt a crossing. This meant a long hike back to the road and a long slog to Durness. During this walk I discovered the impact of devouring two packs of army supplies energy sweets, trust me you don’t want details. As a group we were despondent but we focused on reaching the Cape. The walk was long and uneventful, other than ensuring we were knackered.

We did have a stroke of luck when we stopped at Eribol church for a rest when a delivery driver stopped and offered us a lift to Durness, a sign that our fortunes were changing? No, arriving at Durness we found out that the Navy were bombing, even though Mrs Mackay and the RN controller had assured us that this was not so and that the ferry would be operating on the good Friday weekend. So we hadn’t managed Ben Hope and now we couldn’t get to Cape Wrath. Morale was low, confidence in all that we had planned was at a low point, we were also stranded there as no public transport was available. So we went to Smoo Caves to cheer ourselves up.

The water fall inside Smoo Caves - A must see if in Durness

Determined not to fail in all respects Ady proposed that we get back to the car and drive to Ben Hope and make the attempt again. This fired us all up and after a taxi back to Halkirk in a taxi driven by the spirit of Ayrton Senna, or the drivers impersonation at least, we got back to the car. After the shakes stopped we enjoyed a most comfortable evening and made the return. This time we would make it, of that we were determined.

Panoramic of the road to Ben Hope.

Fresh after a good night’s kip and ready for the second attempt.

I feel I should add a disclaimer here, as my tag is Norfolk4. It isn’t that I cannot count but the forth dropped out. That’s probably the reason I’ve never fitted in in Norfolk as I can read, I can write, but oi cnt droive a tractor boi.

Steady now - picking the route carefully purposely not looking left.

We made it.

Rarely felt this good.

Snowball fight at 10 paces - 3000ft up - the cloud lifted for a short while to give us some breathtaking views.

The view - A feeling yet to be topped.

I have since found out that a religious group, the Artherian Society I think, views Ben Hope as the most prominent source of power in the UK. I couldn’t attest to that but it certainly inspired Ady and I, being that high, the views, the air, just everything about it. “What about doing all of them” Ady asked, it did seem like a good idea. Andy wasn’t able to commit to such an undertaking but it seemed a good idea to us. Ever since Ben Hope all we do in our spare time is think about the mountains of Scotland, the harshness, the rugged beauty and all the reasons that we could use to justify another visit to the wives. Within a week we did return to climb Ben Lomond via Ptarmigan.

And now our Munro total stands at 24, which since April, considering our location, is evidence of our excellent ability to justify things to the missus’s. We consider ourselves completely hooked, not just on the bagging aspect, but on exploring the Scottish end of the world. And what a part of the world it is, certainly the part of the world that has the biggest draw on a couple of Norfolk bors. Winter skills courses loom this year, the Cape Wrath Trail planned for next December, hope to see some of you around.

One of the best resources for this whole thing has been the inspiration we have drawn from the walk reports and this website in general, so from mountainous Norfolk thank you to Mr and Mrs Webster and all the contributors that keep the dream alive whilst in mountain detox down here in East Anglia.

Cheers,
Brian, Ady and Andy, Andy unfortunately couldn't make the next 23, he's drilling for oil in Switzerland, good luck mate, hope you hit the black gold soon. This time next year Rodney...............................

"What happened next" The sage of the next 23 - to follow at a website near you soon - Release date TBC - well it has taken us since April to get this one on.
Hope to see you there.

[houdi]

Totally amazing report - a real adventure and a half! The Ben Hope pics are pretty special. Not sure I'd be able to tackle something like this but it must be worth it for the variety of scenery. Oh, and Smoo Caves look awesome. Can't wait for your next report although it looks as if I'll have to

[mountain coward]

Yeah great report! I especially like the funny quotes like 'experts in justifying things to the missus'

Wish I'd seen something on Ben Hope!

[andyfitz]

Really enjoyed that report and photos. I have to say that if my hobby was going for walks in Norfolk (thats in Englandshire, right?), then would be lucky to get one done every couple of years - so fair play to your "missus" for putting up with the whole Munro thing. Look forward to next report - which will no doubt be Liathach starting from Arbroath, or something along those lines.

[monty]

Thats an excellent report Norfolk4. Love the pictures of the cave and The dead marshes and Ben Hope. A superb read indeed.

[rockhopper]

Cracking report Norfolk3. Particularly like the photo in Smoo cave and the aspect of your finhal photo "The view"

[briansolar1]

Excellent report of a unique adventure. You should visit up here in May/ June sometime to appreciate the scenery in more 'gentle' conditions!

brian

[norfolk4]

Thanks for the responses. We will try not to wait so soon next time. Hoping to get back in November but that will probably be it for this year, the travel in bad conditions puts us off , not Scottish conditions, we view them as fun and exitement. Sorry for the delay in getting the report on but things are further complicated down here in norfolkshire as I cannot get the internet outside of work, so I am an internet pauper as well. I bet you can get internet in a bothy somewhere, but I cannot get it 100 miles from London village. no sense at all.

[malky_c]

Loved this report. I suppose in a way it is quite an logical route, but I've never thought about it or heard of anyone doing it before. Takes a brave person to head cross country on the east part of the north coast.

I was up that way (well round Loch Eriboll) about a month earlier in similar conditions. Pretty hard going stuff

[weemistermac]

Fantastic report Norfolk4! If long distance walking is your thing then I can strongly recommend the West Highland Way. It gives you the similar feeling of walking from the 'lowlands' (Glasgow) in the direction and the majesty of the Highlands, past Loch Lomond, over Rannoch Moor and into Glencoe and skirting Ben Nevis. Well worth a go and you can include some hill-bagging excursions on the way. Looking forward to further reports!

[JazzyJarrett]

Thanks for all the great replies, it took me this long to push Brian into writing the thing. I'm one of the Norfolk4 (3) by the way, the one in the cap with the red first aid kit.
Twas certainly an adventure, the report could have been ten times longer really, but we thought the above summed it up nicely.

Takes a brave person to head cross country on the east part of the north coast.

After several hours walking and sleeping in "The Dead Marshes", I can certainly relate to that.......stupid more than brave I think.
I'll try and push Brian into writing the next installment soon which will bring us up to date for the 24 we have now completed. We're totally hooked, we love the people, the scenery, the wildlife, and when you can get it, the complete isolation.

Fantastic report Norfolk4! If long distance walking is your thing then I can strongly recommend the West Highland Way

Weemistermac, should be next year, we'll see how the bagging goes.

Cheers,
Jazzy

[frickletonh]

Cracking Report with just the right amount of "madness" to keep it different, but as they say thats "NFN"

[Craiging619]

Great report and amazing pics. Definitely sounds like you did that walk the right way round.

Look forward to next report - which will no doubt be Liathach starting from Arbroath, or something along those lines.

Haha, can't wait for that epic.

[2dalmatians]

A really fantastic report. The pictures and commentary on Ben Hope were superb. Im off to read about that mountain in a minute!

[Lejogplodder]

Great report lads and full of usefull infromation that may be handy for my proposed attempt at Jog to cape wrath next April as the first leg to lands end.
I'm hopeing to do the moine path to ben hope but have a road alternative if the weather is against me, some of your images make me think i may be taking the alternative route, but just maybe an early spring will favour my plan.
Route maps and airial view available on my blog,
http://johnparsons55.wordpress.com/

Hope to blog the journey and meet others along the way. Like you, this years trip has me hooked on the shear beauty of Scotland.
Cheers J.P.