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In anticipation that this was going to be an epic for us and that we would spend most (all) of our daylight hours walking we thought it best that we set more than one alarm. The second one did it, and as we parted the curtains it was with some optimism that we felt the darkness above was in fact clear. By the time the flask was made, the porridge consumed, the car loaded with everything we could possibly need we were off in the darkness leaving our compact and bijou cottage in Killin and up Glen Lochay eventually reaching our start point at Kenknock. Actually, it would have been good to head up the track from there and park at the upper track but alas my car was not of the 'off road' variety and was not willing to inflict serious damage in pursuit of saving us 15 mins of walking. As we parked the skies were filling with the morning light and and the few heavy grey clouds were going away to annoy someone else.
- Ben Challum at the start of the walk
It isn't really very clear where you should park in order to be out of the Farmers (and other land users) way so we left it where we felt it was a 'least inconvenient to others' spot. We were off along the valley bottom and although the sun had not actually got to us yet we were resolved that it soon would. Its just over 3 miles along this valley bottom and you can make good time if there is no wind, the sun is in the sky and the ambiance is generally pleasant.
- Looking up Glen Lochay onto Stron nan Eun
We opted not to do this as we were too busy taking pictures, admiring the coo’s, the scenery and the approaching Ben Challum, but eventually we made it to Batavaine. The route takes you up behind the house, up the grassy slope to join the track that makes its way up to connect to the upper track.
- Just left the track and heading to Stron nan Eun
Now that was the easy bit, which we soon realised as we headed up the grassy slope towards Sron nan Eun. Now here’s the thing, the route as detailed in ‘The Ultimate Guide’ details a route around its base however somewhere in the plethora of guide books we recalled one that suggested an option of cutting a diagonal right to approach the summit. This we duly did and had an excellent rise to the top. Excellent snow with unbelievable views that were sublime.
- On the nose of Stron nan Eun looking down Glen Lochay and onto Tarmachan
- Ben Challum and the ridge of Sail Dhub
Although there was snow it was quite clear from the little patched of path we could see the route up to the summit of Creag Mhor (1048m).
- Looking up the route to the summit of Creag Nhor
- Pana of the head of Geln Lochay
- Creag Mhor summit
- Looking down from the summit of Creag Mhor
Top reached the scenery was amazing. Great place for a cup of tea and a butty.
Although it is clear where you want to go – alas its not so straightforward.
- The way ahead - well not actually..... but eventually. Stob an Fhir-bhogha
Again the guidebooks suggest a route that is NW for ½ Km then North…. Hmm!
- Icy descent/traverse off Creag Mhor
The snow was rock set with ice and the traverse NW was somewhat precarious – I would suggest following the walking NW to avoid this guidance. Should the visibility been poor and were unable to see where we were heading – it could have been rather dodgy the next bit. Not so today thank goodness with excellent visability what was required of us was clear and obvious.
- Back end of Creag Mhor - the col is on the right of pic
Reaching the col and crossing some boggy stuff we looked back at Creag Mhor just confirm that heading off in the opposite direction at the top was so the right thing to do. From Lochan na Baintighearna we made our way across to ascend the ridge taking us to the top of Stob an Fhir-bhogha (1029m).
- View from Stob an Fhir-bhogha
- Summit of Ston an Fhir-bhogha
From here it seemed like a stones throw to Beinn Heasgarnich - aye maybe if I was Fingal as it took longer to get there than it looked. The good thing was that as we made our way across we spotted an excellent escape route that we would take on our return back to the track. From Heasgarnich we could see Ben Nevis and Ben Cruachan indeed I think we could just make out Disneyland, Florida (OK, maybe the fair was in Oban).
I would just like to add that both summits were very icy with mainly a thin or hard cover of snow over rock. Having packed microspikes I was damn well going to use them and we did making the going not just easier and safer but it also allowed us to gape at the inspiring views that surrounded us.
- Pana of Beinn Heasgarnich
Now, we still have about 2 miles to go but the light falling behind Challum made it a pleasant plod back to the car.
OK it was a long day and OK my legs were more than a little tired and OK maybe I wasn't upset that it was not as good the next day and I could get a wee lie in (OK - that's a lie - I enjoyed the extra kip) however it was a grand day out.
This is our first walk write up which has made me appreciate the work that others go to in order to get their day typed out - respect! Maybe I will ge faster at it.... maybe.
PS I have no idea why I had the extra/repeat pic at the bottom - could not get rid. Hey ho.