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On a day of constantly threatening cloud, a long route to one of the most memorable spots in the Brecon Beacons. There’s a classic route to the Carmarthen Fan (from the road-end to the north-west, steeply up and then along the full northern edge of the escarpment) – unfortunately, this wasn’t it...
After a steep pull up a decent path from Glyntawe to the ridge, the route up to and along the cliff of Fan Hir is easy enough going but long and quite featureless on the ground, although the views are good to the high central Beacons and the Black Mountains beyond.
- Fan Gyhirych
- Glyntawe valley
- Fan Hir
- Pen y Fan & Fan Gyhirych
- Fan Hir
- Llyn y Fan Fawr
The walking improves after Fan Hir though, down and up again to Fan Brycheiniog above the handsome Llyn y Fan Fawr. It’s worth continuing from there to the second top of this mountain, both for the different views back along the ridge and to find the better going when cutting across to the west of the plateau to descend towards Picws Du.
- Garreg Las from Fan Brycheiniog
- Beacons from Fan Brycheiniog south summit
- View north from Fan Brycheiniog summit
- Fan Brycheiniog
From there, and after a slightly slippery first descent, the undulating stroll over the spectacular green cliffs of the Carmarthen Fan is among the best couple of miles of hill walking around – the view of the hills encircling Llyn y Fan Fach is tremendous.
- Picws Du
- Fan Foel
- Waun Lefrith & Llyn y Fan Fach
- Afon Sychlwch valley
- Picws Du
- Bannau Sir Gaer
Experience says that the best way to continue is to drop down for the view of the cliffs from the lake shores, but – on a ‘bagging’ day – it was time to leave the escarpment for a slightly marshy tramp over to Garreg Las. Once past the wet col, it’s a pleasant climb up through the ‘blue’ rocks to this quite bouldery peak, but still rather a comedown...
- Garreg Lwyd & western Black Mountain from Garreg Las
- Garreg Las
From Garreg Las, looking over a long bleak green moor, the thought of another six miles back to the starting point does rather make the heart sink... It would be nice to say that this was a pleasant surprise, but in truth – and especially for the first half – it’s a grim slog. There are few features about to guide you and what paths there are tend to drift off in the wrong directions (the right direction tends to be through the reedy waters you’d rather avoid...), so you are constantly checking the map and compass. The rivers you have to ford were also – this day at least – fast flowing and lacking in obvious crossing points; it’s either long detours or deep and difficult wading... The route does improve eventually – head just left of the stony grey peak of Disgwylfa to pick up a passable track that heads back to Glyntawe over more pleasant terrain.
- Start of return route from slopes of Garreg Las
- Afon Giedd & Disgwylfa
- Ponies, approaching the Glyntawe valley
I still wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Picws Du to anyone, just perhaps not this way... Take the short easy route from the north-west and just go there-and-back to any other peaks you want to take in (with Fan Brycheiniog the most worthwhile extension).