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MWIS was looking good for Wednesday but I had no one to walk with and my better half doesn't like me going alone. He doesn't 'do' hill walking so I was surprised when he suggested coming with me!
From someone of our vintage, still suffering the effects of Lyme Disease (contracted from tick bite) who dislikes walking uphill as much as he does, this was a generous and noble offer!
After the obligatory protests of "But you know you don't really enjoy it" (not made too vigorously) I had a quick think round the hills I still have to do and what would be best for a 'non walker' to tackle.
To be honest there aren't too many non remote ones now that don't require a long drive. What I came up with was Beinn Liath Mhor. I remembered from doing Sgorr Ruadh there's a good stalkers' path going right up Coire Lair. The plan was for us to walk up to the small lochan together then for me to nip up and bag the summit and down again to walk back via stalkers' path with him.
Well that was the plan.
He doesn't have quite my enthusiasm for early starts where hills are involved, so I relented and said we'd leave the house at 8.00ish rather than 7.00ish. On reflection that was a mistake.
So we parked in the layby opposite the phone box at 9.30 and were on our way shortly after. Not many minutes into the walk the dramatic prow of Fuar Tholl loomed up before us which got my juices flowing for the day ahead - and probably filled him with quiet dread.
Fuar Tholl
We started at a good pace up the track, turned left at the wooden post and stepped through the so called dog gate along with the dogs. So far so good. But when the gradient increased the pace slowed right down. He just isn't used to walking uphill. Half an hour into the walk he was feeling faint and needing to eat which I didn't feel boded particularly well.
But I'm an optimist and so much wanted to climb this hill I didn't let myself question whether we could do it in the time we had.
A couple passed us who were out for a flat walk and a guy who was planning the round of Liath, Ruadh and Fuar Tholl. Our pace was so slow I didn't expect to see any of them again! So we plodded on and reached the wonderful sculpture-like rocks where the path levels off at the lip of the corrie. At this point things were looking good.
Pete was feeling okay again and we even discussed whether we should tackle Beinn Liath Mhor by the Walkhighlands suggested route going up the east end and walking along the ridge to the summit. But we decided to stick with our original plan - which might have been another mistake.
Sgorr Ruadh and Beinn Liath Mhor
Sgorr Ruadh looking impressive
Love the way the rock strata is so clear
We followed the good path up into Coire Lair
We were accompanied by this majestic chap - perhaps eyeing up the dogs as a potential meal
We stopped for a while to watch two rival stags staging a stand off high on the slopes of BLM. By the way the hinds were slipping quietly away as the boys roared, it was like they were saying "Here's our chance girls!"
In the shadow of Sgorr Ruadh
I kept looking for the lochan at the top of the corrie and it wasn't in the dip I expected it to be in, but when we got there the dogs were happy just because they're labradors and have a thing for water.
Tess wanted me to throw a stick in for her to retrieve but there were only stones about and she's learned it doesn't work so well with stones so wouldn't play
The lochan
This was the point I should have asked Pete what he wanted to do.
My original idea had been to leave him here for a snooze in the sun, go up to the summit as fast as I could and down again to join him. But it was good having his company and I guess I didn't want us to split up.
So I just went right on up the path that started climbing up to the ridge and he followed.
To start with the path was okay - steep with a few hands on bits but okay.
Path traversing up to ridge
Looking back into Coire Lair. Seem to remember that lumpy effect is to do with glaciation - the lumps called moraines.
The path was indistinct and a couple of times I lost it completely. When in doubt I tend to go higher but in this case that wasn't the best thing to do as we were traversing a knoll that we'd have to come down from to get on to the ridge proper. If I'd studied the map more closely I'd have seen this but just at the point I was about to lead us up the gum tree the very nice man we met earlier who was doing all three appeared, having done Liath and on his way to Ruadh. He assured me that although the path wasn't visible now if we kept going at this level we'd pick it up again. That was really helpful
and kept us on the straight and narrow, so to speak, traversing round to where the path wound its way up through a break in the crags.
Path (on extreme left) winding its way up through the crags
We passed the second small lochan from which point we got our first view of the sea to the west. That was exciting but I was beginning to feel anxious about how long this was taking and didn't immediately see the path going up from there.
It was Pete who spotted it and on we went until we reached a level pavement area with all these blocks of rock that are probably something else to do with glaciation.
Interesting rocks
When we reached the start of the steep rocky climb to the summit Pete suggested I go up and he wait for me. But by this time I was wondering if the best option might not be to complete the ridge rather than return the way we'd come. So I encouraged him to keep going to the top.
It doesn't look it in pic but this bit was steep
He did it and I was very chuffed for him!
This was Pete's 7th Munro - and his last. But he's said that after every Munro he's done!
The rest of the team
Loch Torridon from summit of Beinn Liath Mhor
Beinn Alligin
The rest of the ridge
North to the mighty Liathach
Spot the ptarmigan adult and juvenile - so well camoflaged and the right edge of pic is cut off in post
I always give the dogs a carrot at the summit cairn as their reward and to distract them from what I'm eating.
But it was so rocky at the top Jack carried his carrot around and wouldn't eat it. Tess ate hers and lost some of it down the rocks. He must have sussed that would happen. Clever hound.
Jack mooching for food scraps left by other walkers. As far as he's concerned this is purpose of climbing hills!
Looking east to Loch Coire Lair
I really wanted to walk the ridge and I didn't want to go back.
But our pace was slow and it may have been wiser to turn back given the time it was taking us and the sun due to go down at 6.30. So we pressed on, me arguing with myself that it was a shorter distance than turning back.
Lochan Uaine
Pete was enjoying the scrambling bits and was doing well. But our pace was very slow and I was feeling anxious about losing the light before getting back to the car and I hadn't even had the foresight to pack a torch!
Can't leave the tale hanging in the air at that point so will finish in a post!
More to follow....