This walk takes in Lismore's two best-known historical features on a circular route from Achnacroish. There's a cafe at half-way.
First section of path can be boggy and the next to the broch is indistinct. Afterward the walk follows minor roads and tracks.
Achnacroish is served by car ferries from Oban.
Achnacroish (Pier for ferry from Oban).
Heading up from the pier in Achnacroish, turn right along a track that runs in front of a row of houses. It seems to end at a white cottage but the path actually goes through the gate and past the front of the cottages, bearing right at the far end to reach a kissing gate in the corner of the last garden. This is the start of a section of grassy coastal path; it has superb views over to the mountains on the mainland but is boggy underfoot at times.
Soon the path reaches a huge cross. This is a memorial to Waverley Arthur Cameron, the son of the man who founded the Oban Times. Waverley's yacht foundered off the coast nearby and he was drowned. Go through the gate to reach the memorial and then follow the path, crossing a small stream and eventually passing just above a white cottage on the coast. Bear left beyond the cottage; the ruin on the right is a former Flax Mill. Continue up to gain the end of a tarmac road beside a house, and head up the road.
After a hundred and fifty metres the route goes off to the right on a faint and grassy path next to a line of trees (another path goes left). Head right across the field and cross the stream and then turn left to head to continue between a drystone wall and the stream. After a short distance go through the gate on the right but continue in the same general direction to reach another gate. This gives access to Coille nam Bard, a ruined township.
From the township take the grassy track that swings sharp right and then back left up the low ridge. The walk now continues along the ridge in a northeastern direction, crossing a drystone dyke along the way. There is no real path on this section but the views to the mainland are fabulous and the round broch at Tirefour is visible ahead atop its grassy mound. Continue along the rough ridge to an area of old stone ruins. Bear right and pass around the fenced field to the right before heading up the hill to Castle Tirefour. This iron-age broch dates back 2000 years; once the walls would have been 15 metres high as well as 3 metres thick. The spectacular setting adds greatly it its appeal.
From the broch descend steeply northwest, aiming for a gate on a minor road. Turn right along the road and follow it as it heads to Baileouchdarach and then climbs uphill, passing through two gates. When it reaches a t-junction with the 'main' island road, turn left. After around a kilometre it passes Lismore Parish Church, sometimes dubbed the Cathedral of the Isles. It is built on the site of the original, much larger cathedral of St Moluag which was destroyed during the reformation. After passing a particularly fine house (complete with peacock) look out for a track on the right. Follow this track, going straight on at a fork. The route passes Port a'Charrainn, the ruins of what was once a village of weavers. Continue along the track as it descends with Castle Coeffin visible ahead.
Follow it downhill, keeping left through a gate to head to the castle. Built in the 13th century by Clan MacDougall, it has a fine position, with a view along the coast to distant Achandun Castle. After enjoying the ruins, return up the track and follow it to the 'main' tarmac road. Turn right here and follow the road to a junction with a left turn signed for 'Balnagowan'. The walk goes left down this road, but many walkers will want to make the short detour to visit the turf-roofed cafe and heritage centre visible ahead on the right. If you don't consume too many cakes, return and head down the Balnagowan road. After passing a loch the route rejoins the outward one at Balnagowan; go right on the path at the end to retrace your steps along the coastal route back to Achnacroish.
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