walkhighlands

Lairig Ghru (at 65)

Route: Lairig Ghru

Date walked: 12/06/2021

Time taken: 10 hours

Distance: 30.5km

The first thing I would say, is that I'm sure that there are many people aged 65 and over (perhaps in their 70's and even in their 80's) who have walked the Lairig Ghru, so I'm not claiming any record! However I think it may be of some assistance to other persons of my age (especially those who are not particularly experienced in Highland walking and climbing) to see whether the "Ghru" (or "Dhru") Is something that they would wish to undertake.

My wife and I (no Royal pun or Wedding speech pun intended) had been planning to walk the Ghru in Summer 2020, but since we were walking it in a organised Group, Covid 19 put paid to the proposed 2020 trip. Accordingly we ended up walking it in June 2021. We were part of a Group which we thought was safer in view of our slightly more mature age and relative inexperience. The Guide was very good and our 6 fellow walkers (who we had never met before) very friendly.

We started at Linn of Dee and travelled north westwards. The weather was excellent - sunny but not too hot and with a brisk wind (which was great for cooling us - but did blow directly into our faces for much of the walk). If the wind had been much stronger than I have to say that it would be much easier walking in the other direction with the wind at our backs.

The track started off going through the forest and then along a dirt and blaze track which segued into a dirt and stone track. It was all fairly easy-going at this stage. We met a number of people going in the same direction (overtaking us) or coming towards us - but not really all that many, considering the number of cars in the Linn of Dee car park. I was using a walking pole (like an old wooden staff) and most of the others had poles of some kind. I actually had 2 poles but only needed the second one over the really tricky patches.

Gradually the track settled down into a dirt and small rock track which was relatively easy to navigate although you did need to watch the whole time where you are putting your feet. I saw everyone stumbling on these rocks at various times and clearly you could not simply walk along solely enjoying the beautiful scenery. And the scenery certainly is fantastic, with the hills and mountains on either side and numerous burns and small areas of water. Although the track does rise and fall at various places, there is no sustained climbing. No-one became out of breath, but we did stop on quite a few occasions for a brief rest and refreshment.

Things were going well, until we came to what I understand to be the fairly notorious "boulder field". This is the consequence of rock falls and scree from the slopes on either side, over many years. The boulder field (or fields) runs for about 1km and is challenging and perhaps somewhat unpleasant. The boulders are quite large and you have to walk across the tops of them which is a matter of balance, determination and courage. In addition, some of the boulders move as you walk on them. That can upset your equilibrium! I don't want to make a huge issue out of something which some regular walkers may encounter frequently and have little problem with, but for myself and I think all of the party with me, the boulder field was quite difficult. To add to that, we had our much loved German Shepherd with us and although he negotiated the boulders as best he could, his hind legs did fall into a crevice at one point. We were anxious in case he was injured because weighing some 30kg, it would have been very difficult to carry him the rest of the way. In fact however he was fine, and he probably did better than any of us. At the end of the walk I think he had done at least 2 Ghrus!!

It was during our travel across the boulder field that I found using 2 sticks of considerable assistance. Indeed I would say that it is probably essential to have at least one stick on this walk, and possibly 2 sticks.

After the boulder field the path continued as a track with small inlaid boulders or rocks and at this stage we started to descend - which was quite encouraging. Once again however we really had to concentrate on the path, because having gone some distance by now, it was a lot easier to stumble on the rocks.

Thereafter the path entered the Rothiemurchus Forest (which looked enchanting with the rays of sunlight streaming down through the canopy of trees) and the path became progressively easier although there were still hazards from tree roots which could trip a tired traveller. Once on the level, the path was an even well trodden (almost blaze) track which presented no difficulties. It's funny when you get to civilisation again and see children playing outside caravans that you realise the significance of what you've just done.

We were told at the outset that the whole walk was 19 miles, but some claimed that the final total was 20 miles. I would like to think that it was 20. That is a nice round figure! We were then met by a minibus which took us right back to where we were originally picked up from and was much appreciated!

It had taken us 10 hours in total with about 9 hours walking and 1 hour aggregate for stops and refreshments.

My conclusions:-

1. It is best (and I suppose really and truly essential) to do some training for the walk, even if you don't walk 20 miles. My own training consisted largely of walks in the countryside with our dog and the occasional longer walk such as round Loch Leven (which is only 13 miles). I suppose really and truly we should have done more longer walks to build up stamina and strength, but in the end of the day we still managed it (and lived to tell the tale!).

2. You can still walk the Ghru even if you are not particularly experienced in hillwalking, but you do certainly need a minimum level of fitness. You also need a fair amount of determination. It is really quite challenging!

3. Both my wife and I had suffered ankle and knee problems in the year leading up to our walk and it is reasonable to say that we approached the walk with a considerable degree of trepidation and anxiety. However, once we were on the way, and knew that we were going to do it "no matter what", we were able to settle down and enjoy it to a reasonable extent. I must reveal however that we took with us supplies of Ibuprofen and Paracetamol and medicated ourselves fairly regularly during the trek! I also had some isopropyl alcohol for rubbing on to my dodgy knee every time that we stopped. If you are my age, then I would definitely take some medications with you. You might not need them but if you do, then they can be very handy.

3. Definitely take at least one walking pole or stick with you, and at the boulder field it is useful to have 2. I saw a number of more experienced walkers who all had one pole or stick and that seems to be a good compromise.

4. If the wind is quite strong it is better to walk from north-west to south-east rather than the reverse (which we did).

5. There are plenty of fast flowing burns along the route at which you can fill up your water bottle. Therefore you can start the walk simply with one modest size water container of water, and fill up as you go along.

6. If you're walking the whole thing in one day (as we did) then don't take a heavy rucksack with you. That sounds pretty obvious but it's amazing how heavy a rucksack can get if you load it up with water. We did have waterproofs with us but thankfully never needed them.

7. For clothing, you can wear shorts or leggings as well as ordinary walking trousers. You should avoid cotton since it retains moisture and sweat. We saw adverts for merino wool clothing - all of which was very expensive - but ironically polyester (which is dirt cheap) is really quite suitable for walking. However it would not keep you warm. We ended up walking in leggings and polyester T-shirts. You need to take a few extra layers in your rucksack in case it gets colder.

8. Is it worth walking? Definitely yes. Would I walk it again? Definitely no. For me at least, it was an amazing one-of (or one-off) experience, and the sense of fulfilment and elation was incredible. We did it! So we don't need to do it again! HIGH FIVE!!!!

Ultimately, it's a bit of a relief, since we had been worrying about it for the last 6 months! And at the end of the day, I'm glad that I never got that helicopter ride!!!!!!!!!

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Christoph29


Activity: Walker
Pub: The Counting House, Glasg
Mountain: Ben Nevis
Place: Linlithgow
Gear: Old wooden staff
Ideal day out: A ramble.




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Statistics

2021

Trips: 1
Distance: 30.5 km


Joined: May 24, 2021
Last visited: Jun 25, 2021
Total posts: 1 | Search posts