Paul McCartney's song Mull of Kintyre says, 'smiles in the sunshine, tears in the rain'. This about sums it up. Over six days we were treated to some Grecian sun, swims in crystal waters, magical sunsets and... Storm Francis. A classic Scottish summer through-hike, worth every bite and blister (there were many of both).

We started in Tarbert in high spirits some sun peeping through the grey as we climbed past the castle. We met our only through-hiking shadow friends within half an hour, beset by midges and already tending to a blister. Don't forget your blister tape! The carved blue markers that dot the entire Kintyre (plus mile markers too) are welcome friends along the way. They make it more accessible for less experienced hikers. After 3 hours or so walking we noticed we'd lost the blue markers. Sadly we'd chatted our way about two miles past the Skipness turn off and were now at risk of missing last orders at the Seafood Cabin!! Raging, we strode back to the turn off. The Walk Highlands directions are incorrect at this point. Definately don't forget your map and compass on the KW, you'll need it.
We completed the last five miles in under an hour to secure the seafood. One of our party of two ran ahead to place the order and I carried two packs down the final descent. Exhausted and delighted we tucked into seafood and wine, day 1 complete.

After a fine camping spot overlooking mountainous Arran and a refreshing morning swim we set off for Clachan. This was a classic Scottish hike, sun beating down, rugged and varied scenery and a memorable camping spot overlooking Gigha to finish. A pot of smoked haddock soup and sticky toffee pudding sent us giddy off to sleep. Storm Francis kicked in about 3am.

Day 3 was a total wash out. As the storm lashed the coast we beat a retreat to Tarbert to dry out everything we owned at the Tarbet Hotel - Hotel needs updating but the staff were outstanding. Cafe Ca'dora served us well all day.

Day 4 and all dried out, we eagerly got back on the trail from Taylinloan to Carradale. This was another belter section. Beautiful trees lined the route into Carradale. A magic beach with waters that ran rust red greeted our knackered feet. The swim at Carradale was one of the best. Our wild pitch was decent and we were feverishly ready to eat. Just at that point my 20 year old MSR Dragonfly (the ever ready best stove in the world) leaked. This cued an intense effort to light a wee fire with wet wood and no fire lighters. But light it for our dinner we did!

Day 5 we were really looking forward to the long stomp to Cambeltown. But decided to bus it down in the hope of replacing the stove. Sadly, we were not able to. We had a great roll and coffee in Cafe Bluebell and set off for Machrihanish. If we couldn't do the two wildest days without hot food, we thought we'd do a wee bit of the trail south from Macherahanish. The day was another total wash out. After an abortive attempt to camp down the Gaudrins (wild and beautiful when not awash!) we beat a retreat into a friendly farmers barn. I've never been more grateful to bed down in straw in my life, while the rain hammered the hell out of the roof.

Day 6 we walked the length of Macherahanish beach and had our final swim. The sun was back out in force and you almost couldn't believe there'd ever have been any rain...

Tired and happy we headed back north to Glasgow. We'll be back to finish the Kintyre Way one day. Stunning scenery, decent trail, and warm hearted folk.