Ben Mor Coigach, Cul Beag & snorkeling in Assynt

Route: Cul Beag

Corbetts: Cul Beag
Grahams: Ben Mor Coigach, Sgurr an Fhidhleir

Date walked: 19/04/2019

Assynt as many of you will agree, is a spectacular landscape. I am not sure how others see it, but for me the view while standing on top of a mountain, out towards the Atlantic is the most rewarding. With hundreds of wee lochans and fascinating mountain shapes in all directions, its simply amazing and something I don't think I will ever get tired of gazing at.

Over the years I have treated the mountains up there like a box of expensive chocolates. Enjoy them one by one, apart from climbing them all in a short period of time. For me there are simply too special. Thanks to it, I have quite a number of un-climbed hills left and during Easter it was time to venture out, but not just to climb hills, but also to snorkel around the Assynt coast and see the area from a viewpoint I have not yet discovered.

Ben Mor Coigach
The great wall of rock which can be seen from Ullapool, was something I never really paid that much attention to, until I saw a trip report a few years ago. It looked amazing! The weather however was not good when we set off the long road around Coigach, low clouds were covering most hills, but I was positive that they would disappear, one I was up there. :roll: :lol: We arrived at the small car park and with only one other car parked there, we did not expect the hill to be busy. Walking towards the tiny settlement along the road, really showed how far flung this part of the world really is.

The far flung village
Little emperor moth, first time I came around one of those...absolutely stunning

The faint path up the hill started just behind a house and we climbed steadily up Garbh Choireachan. By the time we reached Speicein nan Garbh Choireachan, the clouds were so thick, that we only had a few meter viability in front of us. :( Walking along the ridge was pretty pants, with no views and I had already made a mental note to return.
Reaching the summit we had a bite to eat and my spirits had lifted, after all I can't stay grumpy for long while hill walking :)
The last views before the clouds rolled in

The summit

To navigate to Sgurr an Fhidhleir we had to rely completely on my GPS. Its easy navigation, but with no obvious path, it would have been also possible to walk to the complete wrong direction in the thick cloud. The downhill walk was pretty enjoyable and spongy. When we reached the bealach between the two hills, the clouds suddenly started to lift a bit and we saw the summit of Sgurr an Fhidhleir. Would the clouds lift by the time we reached the summit?

Hello views

Climbing up the slope, views towards the lochan Lochan Tuath opened up and OH WOW...

Lochan Tuath trough the clouds

it looked amazing. Stopping to take some photos, we met a couple of other guys who just returned from the summit and said that they had no views at all :( Continuing we clouds however seemed to breaking up even more and when we reached the summit, the clouds allowed spectacular views in windows. I walked towards the end of the mountain to explore and the nearly vertical drop from the top down to the bottom was amazing. I walked down the slope, until I reached a comfortable platform and sat down. The spectacle in front of my eyes was amazing...clouds were racing across the sky and covered and un-covered the landscape around me. As much as I love clear sky's, there is something magical about clouds.

Lochan Tuath and the wee loch to the left I called Loch Scallop and OMG this mountain is vertical :shock:

Windows of visibility in the clouds

Stac Polly still in the cloud in the distance





I stayed for a good half an hour mesmerized and trying to take it all in while taking hundreds of photos. So beautiful! Dragging my self away, I climbed up the summit again and we made our return. On our descent the two guys we had seen before, had decided to re-climb the hill, as they saw the clouds lifting...great decision and I hope they had equally good views.

On the return walk with the summer isles on the horizon

Cul Beag
Two days later during Easter Monday the sun was out and the sky was cloud free. It was time to drive home, but not before climbing Cul Beag .There are two ways to climb Cul Beag, a short steep path from the bottom straight up, or the longer walk in across the moor. As I had never known about the short route, the longer route was already pre-planned, so I decided to follow it.

Perfect weather

The stalkers path and Cul Beag

This time we were the first car and setting off, the path which was easy to follow. It changed when we left the stalkers path end entered the endless moor. It was hard not to stumble, as my views were constantly distracted by the mountains around. Cul More to the right, Ben More Coigach to the left and Arcle and Foinhaven dominated in the distance.

Cul Mor

Myself on the way up

Ben Mor Coigach

Arcle and Foinhaven in the far distance

The climb to the false summit of Meall Dearg was steep, but excuses to enjoy the views were plentiful. From the summit we walked down to the wee lochan Uaine and had lunch. It was so peaceful and a perfect camp spot.
Lochan Uaine

Packing up I walked around the side of the mountain, so get my first glimpses of Suilven in the distance. It was impossible to walk without a break, as I constantly had to stop to take photos :lol:

First view out towards the sea , Suilven and Stac Polly


Once I reached the summit I realized it's a spectacular view point. All the beautiful hills of Assynt and Sutherland show themselves picture perfect and the landscape of a hundred lochans frame every single hill perfectly. We walked to every point of the hill and simply could not get enough of the views. So so beautiful.

Far below the road towards Stac Polly
God's country
Posing with Stac Polly

Kevin at the summit

Stac Polly


Looking out towards Ben Mor Coigach

We must have stayed for a good hour, until Kevin reminded me that we had a 6 hour drive home ahead of us. Some places are hard to leave and with some last views out towards sea, we returned the same way we came from, happy that summer had only just started and that hopefully we would be back up again in the near future.

Having started snorkeling in Scotland last year , I have seen some amazing areas. Hill walking takes you inland, but snorkeling takes you out to some beautiful coastal areas. Staying in Ardmair, we had planned 2 days in the hills and 2 days out at sea. Staying at the great Ardmair Point campsite , meant that we could get changed in the tent and walk to the water, as the beach is just a stone throw away. The water in April is a chilly 7-8C, impossible without a warm wet suit, hat and gloves, but even fully equipped, the first few minutes feel as if you stepped into an ice bucket of water.

Myself with the wall of Ben Mor Coigach behind me

I really don't like being cold, but what you can see underwater makes me forget all cold each time I step into the water. The waters off Airmair were amazing, I fell in love with the beautiful (but deadly to fish) Dahlia anemones, which had a variety of colors and I never seen in such abandonment before. Swimming along the cliffs and snorkeling into sea caves, hundreds of dead men's fingers (another coral) covered the underwater cliffs and lots of star fish were all over the ground. As beautiful as Assynt is over water, underwater is it equally stunning.
Dahlia anemone
A garden of anemones
Close up

Underwater world

Sun star star fish


Plumose anemones

Plumose anemone on wall

Hermit crap

Egg ribbon of the Highland Dancer sea slug

Highland Dancer sea slug


Scorpion fish

Sea urchin

Deah men's fingers

Seven armed star fish

Once we have covered about 1.5 kilometers along the cliffs I was getting rather chilly, so to warm up we swam across the sea to the Isle of Martin which is a 1 km away. During our swim 2 curious seals followed us, but were to far, to take good photos, but it is a lovely experience seeing them out at sea. On the other side kelp was predominately around the edge of the island, but also an abundant of scallops. It was an opportunity to good to miss and so we free dived and collected 6 large ones for dinner that night.. 2.5 hours after setting off the cold finally drove me out of the water and after 30 min of standing under the hot shower, my body temperature was back to normal and the feeling returned to my toes :lol: :lol: Preparing the scallops and cooking them that evening was the best and tastiest dinner I had in a very long time and it felt rather satisfying having caught my own food.
Fresh scallops for dinner

Click to mark this as a great report. Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).

Comments: 5

The underwater trails – Snorkelling in Scotland

Attachment(s) Date walked: 30/06/2018
Comments: 11
Views: 2053

Magic inversion in the Arrochar Alps

Munros: Beinn Ime, Beinn Narnain
Date walked: 11/03/2018
Distance: 13.5km
Ascent: 1325m
Comments: 5
Views: 1562

Sub zero wild camping and the wee Boochil

Munros: Stob Coire Raineach (Buachaille Etive Beag), Stob Dubh (Buachaille Etive Beag)
Date walked: 25/02/2018
Comments: 1
Views: 1155

Mission to ‘create a new hill walker’

Munros: Meall Chuaich, Schiehallion
Date walked: 03/02/2018
Distance: 24km
Ascent: 1345m
Comments: 5
Views: 3340

Ben Challum and 2 Corbetts- a great round

Attachment(s) Munros: Ben Challum
Corbetts: Beinn Chaorach, Cam Chreag (Auch)
Date walked: 29/10/2017
Distance: 18km
Ascent: 1458m
Views: 987

1, 2, 3, 4

My Completion...Ladhar Bheinn from Corran

Attachment(s) Munros: Ladhar Bheinn
Date walked: 17/09/2017
Distance: 19.7km
Ascent: 1374m
Comments: 56
Views: 9627

1, 2

The Cuillins in 3 days - no guide required

Attachment(s) Munros: Am Basteir, Bruach na Frithe, Inaccessible Pinnacle, Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Sgurr Alasdair, Sgurr Dubh Mor, Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, Sgurr na Banachdich, Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr nan Gillean
Date walked: 22/07/2017
Distance: 40km
Ascent: 4000m
Comments: 25
Views: 9207

Seana Bhraigh - beauty of the north via the easy way

Attachment(s) Munros: Seana Bhraigh
Date walked: 01/07/2017
Distance: 20km
Comments: 2
Views: 2095

Merrick, Mullwharchar and stunning Galloway

Attachment(s) Corbetts: Merrick
Grahams: Mullwharchar
Donalds: Merrick, Mullwharchar
Date walked: 18/06/2017
Distance: 19.2km
Ascent: 1197m
Comments: 8
Views: 2531


User avatar
Location: North Ayrshire
Occupation: HR
Activity: Munro compleatist
Pub: The one which serves beer
Place: Sutherland
Gear: My walking boots
Camera: Panasonic DMC-FZ1000
Ideal day out: Finding new routes up mountains, which involves a good scramble
Ambition: See the world

Munros: 50
Corbetts: 23
Grahams: 7
Donalds: 8
Sub 2000: 2
Islands: 9

Filter reports



Trips: 1
Corbetts: 1
Grahams: 2


Trips: 4
Distance: 37.5 km
Ascent: 2670m
Munros: 6


Trips: 9
Distance: 222.9 km
Ascent: 15081m
Munros: 24
Corbetts: 3
Grahams: 1
Donalds: 2


Trips: 17
Distance: 302.4 km
Ascent: 17155m
Munros: 23
Corbetts: 3
Grahams: 1


Trips: 14
Distance: 247.4 km
Ascent: 11707m
Munros: 32
Corbetts: 1


Trips: 23
Distance: 429.4 km
Ascent: 24635m
Munros: 54
Corbetts: 1
Grahams: 1
Sub2000s: 1


Trips: 17
Distance: 224.4 km
Ascent: 21379m
Munros: 48
Corbetts: 2


Trips: 27
Distance: 519.91 km
Ascent: 37659m
Munros: 54
Corbetts: 1


Trips: 16
Distance: 228 km
Ascent: 14870m
Munros: 28


Trips: 1
Munros: 1

Joined: Feb 02, 2010
Last visited: Aug 11, 2019
Total posts: 1197 | Search posts