Day 3: Grantown-on-Spey (Garden Park Guest House) to Ballindalloch (Delnashaugh Inn)
Distance planned: 25.5km (16mi) Distance walked: 6km (4mi)
Ascent: 536m Actual Ascent: 10m (33ft)
Estimated Time: 7.5 hours
Time walking: 2 hours

Did not sleep so well for some reason and awoke with sore feet – not a good start. I had developed a large blister on the base of my left heel the day before but with Compeed and a few painkillers it was bearable to walk on. Breakfast was good. I left the B&B just before 9:00 as I had to get a hat to replace the one I left at Ravenscraig. The only ones available were not cheap but were Goretex. Sandwiches, Kit-Kats and Jellybabies from the Co-op and I was ready to go. This was the last big day and the most strenuous of them all. Set out through Anagach Wood; the walking was cool and soft underfoot – so far so good. Emerged from the wood shortly before the road bridge over the Spey at Cromdale and immediately felt the effects of the warm sun and hard surface.



Saw an angler – his casting was poetry in motion; many find it hard to aerialise the line effectively with the back cast and as a consequence the line tends to fall on the water in ragged fashion with the forward cast. This guy picked up the line (in a classic Spey cast) and propelled it forward so that it straightened and gently landed on the water. Watch Bob Mortimer trying the same and you’ll see what I mean. However, as I found out later in the Delnashaugh Inn, it didn’t get him a single take all day.


The walk along the road to Cromdale station was uncomfortable – I needed some soft ground under my feet as they were burning! No signage to direct you from the road and on to the railway track bed at Cromdale station (a private house now). With signs telling you that you needed the owner’s permission to go on to the platform I was a little concerned. However, the only way to get off the track bed (if going south) and on to it (if going north) was through the station so on I went and nobody came out shouting.



Passed through quite a few ‘kissing gates’ – I didn’t mind them, but some have hated them.


By the time I reached the A95 it was painfully obvious that I was not going to make the rest of the day – my feet were telling me that I should have built in a day’s rest in Grantown. So, I walked back towards Cromdale along the A95 as far as a house called Dallachapple. I had tried to get through to a taxi firm but was just getting ‘out of order’ squeaks and dings. A lovely couple in the house managed to get me a taxi – they hadn’t lived there long so were unfamiliar with the area but went out of their way to help. Thank you, Pam and husband. I got a ride with Johnnie’s Cabs to the Delnashaugh Inn at Ballindalloch only to find that there had been some confusion with my booking. Nevertheless, the young girl and Fiona sorted me out with a room. Quite honestly, I would have laid on the couch in the lounge. Three pints later, a long soak in the bath, a nap, another pint, haddock and chips followed by a double Macallan and a good night’s sleep helped to ease the pain. The guys (5) fishing at Cromdale (and elsewhere) had spent the past week and managed just two salmon between them; one of 16lbs the other, 5lbs. Very expensive salmon as beats on this stretch of the river are not cheap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Like me, they were from ‘down south’; just 15 miles away from where I live. Small world. By the way, I like fishing 😊.


Day 4: Ballindalloch (Delnashaugh Inn) to Craigellachie (Bridge View B&B)
Distance: 22km (13.5mi) Distance walked: 21km (13mi)
Ascent: 173m
Estimated Time: 6 hours
Walking time: 6.25 hours + 1.25 hours for stops/detour

Awoke to another gorgeous morning, although quite chilly at first. Patched up my blister and had breakfast. Fiona gave me a lift to Ballindalloch Station which saved a couple of kilometres of road walking – thanks Fiona.


Crossed the Spey by the old rail bridge – no one fishing today as it was Sunday. Walked as far as Blacksboat before stopping to attend to my heel. It needed a bit more Compeed on a bit I hadn’t managed to cover back in the hotel.





That done and pictures taken I pressed on. Plenty of views of the Spey along this bit of the walk. Approaching the Tamdhu distillery I saw a pair of roe deer in an adjoining meadow; they soon saw me and disappeared into the forest.



Passed by Tamdhu station and the Knockando distillery; the former pretty, the latter, not. The newly built Dalmunach Distillery is impressive though and worth a visit at some other time.


Crossed the Spey again just after Carron and stopped for the lunch I would have had the day before – ‘waste not, want not’ my Mum always said. Met a Hungarian couple out for a Sunday stroll – they moved to Elgin several years ago and love the area.



Made it to Charlestown of Aberlour by the early afternoon and resisted the temptation of stopping in the ‘Mash Tun’. I settled for the Community Tea Room instead which is part of the old Charlestown station. After two reviving cups of tea and shortbread I continued to Craigellachie*. Will definitely go back to Charlestown and spend some time there as it looked a delightful town. Not far now.

*This is not pronounced ‘Craig-el-la-key’ as I had been saying, but ‘Creg-el-i-ki’ all tumbled together. The lovely [volunteer] couple running the tearoom put me right 😊.


Through the old rail tunnel and out to Craigellachie. I really wanted to see the Telford Bridge at Craigellachie so made a slight detour; it didn’t disappoint. A wonderful structure and a testament to a great engineer.






Walked into town, carefully negotiating the A95 – is it the space, or that I had not been driving, but the cars and motorcycles sped along here as if needing to get somewhere by yesterday. I was advised by a guy canoeing that the ‘Copper Dog’ was the place to eat so I walked in and booked a table for later – a wise move as it was packed later. Then up a fairly long flight of steps to the aptly named ‘Bridge View’ B&B. This was NICE. It looked like a traditional Scottish low-level house from the front but had been greatly extended at the back. My room was very comfortable and the en-suite had a modern walk in shower. Beautiful. The finishing touch was complimentary dram – to be saved for later.
The meal at the ‘Copper Dog’ was good. As I said earlier the pub/hotel was full of people with money to spend; some local, mostly tourists passing through. I had passed many beautiful houses along the way and asked the guy in charge [behind the bar] where the money came from. “Oil and whisky,” he said. “This is a wealthy part of Scotland”. Walked slowly back to the B&B and drank my whisky before drifting off.


Day 5: Craigellachie (Bridge View B&B) to Fochabers (Grant Arms Hotel)
Planned distance: 21km (13mi) Distance walked: 22km (13.5mi)
Ascent: 472m
Estimated Time: 6.5 hours
Walking time: 7 hours + 1 hour for stops/detour

Fortified by another good breakfast and fresh Compeed I set out. The local Co-op was beyond the John Dewer distillery and in the wrong direction; at this point my left heel was painful to walk on so I dropped down to the Speyside Way and started the day. I had three Kit-Kats, some Jellybabies and sachets of energy gel left over from yesterday; they would have to suffice. After a few more painkillers and short distance further the discomfort receded. It is amazing what you can push into the background when you really want to do something.
A last look at the river, then under the A95 and a long steady climb along a minor road through woodland. Passed a very impressive and very private Arndilly House towards the Ben Aigan forestry area. Not much to see other than trees, but they were beautiful. On reaching the Ben Aigan Forest sign turn off the minor road taking the forestry track to the right. There is no Speyside Way sign.


Keep climbing steadily, never steep, until you reach the highest point just before crossing Rocky Burn. A little way further along there are a couple of gaps in the trees that afford a view of the Spey valley all the way to the Moray Firth. It is also possible to make out the road bridge at Boat O’Brig my intended stop for ‘lunch’.


After crossing the Allt Daley look out for the marker directing you off the forestry track (to the left) and down a footpath leading to Bridgeton Cottages otherwise you’ll continue around Knock More and have much further to walk once realising your mistake. Met a runner earlier and she did just that – as I found when I met her the following day in Fochabers. Pass the Speyside Gun Club (on your right), then turn left at Bridgeton Cottages (again, no signage) and right at Bridgeton following a steep(ish) path down to the Boat O’Brig bridges. Time for a rest and some pictures – the area is impressive.



Continue under the rail line between Elgin and Keith and up Tor Hill; steep at first but only for a short distance and then undulating as the road contours along the valley side. A steep descent and then ascent near a house called Aultderg brings you to the ‘Pillar of Earth’ car park. Wanted to see this so took the small detour. Was not sure whether I saw it or not; I certainly had a fine view over the Spey but could not see a ‘Pillar of Earth’. Apparently, I was standing on top of the pillar and it was best viewed from the other side of the river.


Back on the road and a [seemingly] long descent into Fochabers. Feet really complaining about all the road walking at this stage. Stopped at the chemist to restock on Compeed and painkillers and fell into the Grant Arms Hotel. Last year my wife and I had a big room at the front, this time it was a small single at the back – no matter, it was comfortable. The owner booked me a table at the posher Gordon Arms Hotel down the road. Showered and managed to relieve the pressure under the blister on my left heel. Walked very slowly to the Gordon Arms and had a good meal. An even slower walk back to the Grant Arms and I was wondering whether I would make it to Buckie the following day. There was the temptation to bow out as my wife and I had completed this leg last year (the other way), but I would see the following morning.
Fochabers is a really attractive town – lots of history – spent a day here last year.




Day 6: Fochabers (Grant Arms Hotel) to Buckie (Cluny Square)
Distance: 18km (11mi) Distance walked: 18km (11mi)
Ascent: 73m
Estimated Time: 4.5 hours
Walking time: 4.5 hours + 0.5 hours for stops

Breakfast was good – like the Grant Arms – it may not be posh, but it is friendly and the owners cannot do enough for you. Walked rather gingerly towards the town square; get the bus to Elgin or press on to Buckie? **** it! I was going to finish – it was a short day both in terms of distance and time. By the time I had reached the river and passed under the A96 the pain was fading into the background. I probably should have got something to eat at the Co-op but [foolishly] thought I could get a snack at Spey Bay – always check that the Dolphin Centre will be open – it wasn’t. It took me just over two hours to reach Spey Bay despite the odd stop for pics.



Took a short rest at the Dolphin Centre and then pressed on. There must have been a bad storm over the winter as many trees had fallen along the path through the woods by the golf course. Reached Port Gordon in good time to find it still lacking any signs of life.


Last year, one Buckpool resident described it as ‘God’s waiting room’, something which has been said about many places no doubt. Past Mrs Mc Miggin’s ‘Luxury B&B’ where we stayed last year. That wasn’t her name nor was it ‘luxury’, the only place we’ve ever stayed where cutlery was laid for a cooked breakfast that didn’t appear. The sign outside was absent this year, perhaps she has moved on or stopped the B&B business.


Now just a short walk into Buckie and Cluny Square. Stopped at the ‘official’ end and took a couple of pics then on to West Church Street (the high street) to find a café.



I had 40 minutes before the Elgin bus appeared. In that time I not only found a good café, but ate a BLT and downed 2 cups of tea.

Once on the bus I could reconnect with my left foot – it was throbbing. It was 900m to Elgin station or so the sign said; I made slow progress down to the train station. Thank goodness for walking poles. By 6:00 pm I was in Inverness and The Ash restaurant. It was the closest to the station and the Caledonian lounge across the road – food was about sixth on my list at this stage – all I wanted was a shower and to collapse into my berth on the sleeper. Had my food – was OK but not as good as some I’d had along the way. Had my shower – how wonderful it felt. Hobbled across the road again to the station and on to the sleeper. An ‘on-off’ night of sleep followed by a dismal ’breakfast’. Once at Euston, it was round to Euston Square underground – only 400m, but it felt much further. At Liverpool Street I was able to get straight on a train to Kelvedon where I was greeted by my lovely wife. Home again 😊.

In all, I managed 119km (74mi) over six days – I was happy with that.

A wonderful walk, but I might suggest lightweight boots rather than the approach shoes I wore. Be prepared for walking on a lot of hard surfaces. It may not take its toll on your legs so much, but it certainly does on the soles of your feet. Dependent upon your age and/or fitness I would suggest that you consider taking one or two rest days along the way. Either get your stuff shipped from place-to-place or pack as light as you can – less pounding on the feet – most walking companies want you to walk north to south for this.

For Vanessa who died in 2021 and her husband, Neill, who died in 2017. Both died of cancer and neither made it to 60. How lucky I am to be able to do walks like this.