Adventures in Knoydart

Route: Ladhar Bheinn from Inverie, Knoydart

Munros: Ladhar Bheinn, Luinne Bheinn, Meall Buidhe (Knoydart)
Corbetts: Sgurr Coire Choinnichean

Date walked: 04/05/2019

It’s been a bit of a running joke with some for far too long now………me and my failure to compleat :lol: (more on that to follow separately). Standing in my way of that achievement was a trip required to the Rough Bounds, to pick off two of my three remaining Munros (on Round 1).

I’d made there it once before, back in October 2016. That had been via the long walk in to Barrisdale from Kinloch Hourn. It had been a superb afternoon/evening as I recall, walking in on the Saturday and but for a stag bellowing out throughout the night far too close to my tent it would have been a good night’s sleep too.

ImageP1310509 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Worth it just for the views on the drive in

ImageP1310522 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
On the long walk in to Barrisdale

ImageP1310565 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
I do like a nice tree

ImageP1310576 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1310610 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
My hotel for the night

Unfortunately, work had conspired on that occasion to give me just the one day in the hills, with that long walk back to my car to look forward too on the same day. The day had dawned sunny and bright and I was soon on my way up the track to Mam Barrisdale, where I’d have to decide left (Luinne Bheinn and possibly Meall Buidhe) or right (Ladhar Bheinn).

It almost didn’t happen, as I had a short standoff with a young stag on the track who wasn’t keen on shifting at first :shock:

ImageP1310625 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

Once he’d eventually moved on I then conspired to make a mistake I’d come to regret for nigh on 2 and a half years. On reaching the high point of the track I turned left.

The plan had been to bag me Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe, but in the end I only managed Luinne Bheinn, albeit it was a great walk alongside the hill before taking a steep climb to hit the ridge close by the west summit.

ImageP1310639 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1310667 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Beinn Sgritheall

ImageP1310676 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Ladhar Bheinn

ImageP1310683 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
I was being watched

ImageP1310701 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1310721 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Toward Meall Bhuidhe

ImageP1310722 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Approaching the summit

ImageP1310735 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1310738 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1310764 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Ladhar Bheinn

ImageP1310815 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Heading back to Kinloch Hourn

ImageP1310857 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

Great views on the day, but I knew extending the walk to take in its neighbour and still get back to the car and home for work the next morning wasn’t going to happen. And there was my mistake on that particular trip. I’d have to return to pick off the other two (not a bad punishment), one either side of the Mam (leaving me logistical issues to resolve).

In the period that followed there had been many a false dawn…….oh yes, many a false dawn :lol: :roll: Plans had been made, then unmade, then tweaked and re-tweaked. Rucksacks had been packed…………then unpacked :lol: Rucksacks had been packed again…………then unpacked…….again :lol: I’d even made it as far as Fort William one time. It was in the Summer of 2018, but it was too warm for me to undertake that long walk in to Barirsdale, so I returned down the A82 (is that not the worst excuse yet?).

And then of course there was the landslide last year down the Kinlochourn road. This forced me to re-evaluate the obvious alternative of a trip from Mallaig to Inverie. Even better, I could train it to Mallaig and get the ferry from there (well I say ferry, looked more like a motorised rowing boat to me when I clapped eyes on it :lol: ). This new plan was ideal, as it meant MrsR wouldn’t be losing the car for the time I was away either. “Win win” all round :D

Just needed to organise it then……… :lol:

Cue the recent glorious Easter weekend. This left me inspired and soon I was booking train and ferry tickets for the May Day Bank Holiday weekend. There’s certainly nothing like the exchange of cash to focus the mind.

It wouldn’t be me though if there wasn’t some sort of fly in the ointment………….

I’d somehow conspired to contract some sort of bug. At the time of the trip the cause hadn’t been diagnosed, but being of a certain age I was a little concerned about the 24/7 indigestion and abdominal pains I was suffering for no apparent reason. I didn’t get to see the “quack” until after the trip and the initial suggestion from them was an attack of Helicobactor Pylori bacteria. Not debilitating by any means, but certainly irritating.

So while I should have been feeling the enthusiasm building as I engaged in a bit of ye olde rucksack packing and unpacking in the lead up to my adventure, I really wasn’t. Whatever was up with me was to leave me feeling anxious for pretty much the entire trip.


The first part of the journey was like any other trip to Glasgow Central for me, given it’s my daily commute into work. Stepping off the train I did wonder if the trip might actually be doomed, as it suddenly dawned on me that my walking pole was lying nice and snug in the car boot :( An essential piece of kit for aging limbs, particularly the knees. Ah well, no walking aide then…..

Despite my abdominal issues anticipation did increase as I made the short walk to Glasgow Queen Street station. There was something of a buzz in the carriage, as the train pulled off on its long journey to Mallaig, via Crianlarich and over Rannoch Moor to Fort William. It’s a superb train journey, even if my photos out the window didn’t really do it any justice.

We’d had a slight delay at Spean Bridge, which meant the train was a little late arriving into Mallaig. Western Isles Ferries require you to be at their terminal 30 minutes ahead of departure, which I just about managed. In reality they seem pretty relaxed about the whole arrival/boarding process, so I found I had the opportunity to nip to a shop quickly and procure me a shiny new walking pole. Might have been the best £9.99 I’d spent in a while :D Things were looking up……

Boarding the ferry was entertaining, with luggage stored on the front of the boat and eventually covered in a large tarpaulin to keep it dry during the choppy crossing and as many people as possible crammed on to the little boat. I’m sure it was all legal and above board :lol:

ImageP1080819 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
The ferry to Inverie

It was a super little trip though, especially as it was taking me to Inverie, a place I’d not been to before. Once ashore I headed through the village, stopping at The Shop to pay for my three nights at the Long Beach camp site, and then along to the campsite where I set about pitching my tent. A great site, but could do with a shower……

ImageP1080833 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

The site is in a superb situation, with the bulk of Meall Buidhe in one direction and a stellar view of Rum across Inverie Bay in the other.

ImageP1080843 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

Sgurr Coire Choinnichean – finding my cojones

I had originally planned to tackle the Corbett of Sgurr Coire Choinnichean on the Friday afternoon, but given how I was feeling I was swithering. In the end though I decided to go for it……..and I was I glad that I did. A superb hill, and easily accessed from the village. And in going for it I think I confirmed to myself I had the cojones to achieve the Munros in the following two days.

From the campsite it was a case of walking back in to the village, taking the path just past the pub marked “Knoydart in a Knutshell”. It’s a good track up to an area of felling, where I initially missed the narrower path heading up to my left through the trees. Lovely views looking down across Inverie Bay………a theme of the entire weekend.

ImageP1080856 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1080860 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

I’d downloaded the route on to my GPS, which was just as well, as there were a few tracks in the forested section heading off in slightly different directions. The correct route is good path until it ends just before a short boggy section leading to a style and dog gate.

From this point the path took a rising traverse to the right, before a slight left and a more direct route up toward the Sclochd a’Mhogha. It was a beautiful afternoon, providing probably the warmest temperatures of the three days. The Sclochd a’Mhogha ravine really does look impressive and there were early views of the afternoon’s target.

ImageP1080866 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
My target

ImageP1080871 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1080881 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Looking up the little scramble

ImageP1080883 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1080889 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Heading along the ridge

ImageP1080895 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Looking toward the summit

I was still anxious about my abdominal issues and at times overcome with an overwhelming sense of loneliness as I climbed this hill. It was just a moment or two here and there. I’ll admit thoughts did turn to maybe just returning to the tent. But thankfully I kept going. The path round the top of the ravine is pretty clear and soon I was hitting the main ridge and making my way up through some crags and a minor scramble before the gradient eased ahead of the final ridge walk to the hill’s summit. The path was easy to follow throughout the walk. The final section along the ridge was a joy, even for me in my anxious state. It may only be a Corbett (he says) but it is an absolutely stunning viewpoint, with views to Ladhar Bheinn, Luinne Bheinn, Meall Buidhe, Beinn Buidhe and back across Inverie Bay to Rum. I would encourage anyone making the trip to Inverie to bag the big hills to think about making time for this beauty too 8)

ImageP1080897 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1080903 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1080905 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

I spent a short while on the top, just soaking in my surroundings and what I had planned for the following two days.

For speed I decided to return the way I had come. Not something I necessarily enjoy (I do like a good circular route where possible), but in this instance my reward was that view back down over Inverie Bay. Just stunning 8)

ImageP1080907 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1080922 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

I was sauntering by now, watching a burst of rain head across Loch Nevis. I was still bathed in sunshine though as I eventually made it back to the main road ( :lol: :lol: :lol: ) and stopped off in the Old Forge for a quiet and expensive pint (oh, and the chance to connect to the outside world and let MrsR know all was well).

ImageP1080923 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

Eventually arrived back at my tent as darkness was falling and I was looking forward to a good night’s sleep.

ImageP1080927 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

As the darkness fell though, so did the temperature. Fully clothed and with a wooly hat on I was still freezing throughout the night. Certainly not the best night’s sleep I’ve ever had.


Ladhar Bheinn – Did I tame the Beast……or did it just whip my bottom?

While I’d been connected to the Old Forge WiFi on the Friday evening I’d reliably informed MrsR that Saturday would be a short day on Meall Buidhe, with the longer walk over Ladhar Bheinn planned for the Sunday. So, on waking from my disturbed and frozen sleep and seeing the weather I decided it would be sensible instead to reverse those plans and get the longer walk done on the Saturday.

That didn’t mean I was acting like a man on a mission necessarily. I was still anxious and worrying about my stomach, which was still giving me jip. Eventually, after a few conversations in my head trying to convince myself it was all a bad idea, I was finally on my way. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, and if I had my time again I’d definitely make sure of setting off much earlier, as this is one seriously long and challenging day.

That said, the initial walk along the track toward Loch an Dubh-Lochain was straightforward. It gives a great view of the Druim Righeanaich ridge on Meall Buidhe, spoiled unfortunately by the monument to the Nazi sympathizer. Despite the great view of Meall Buidhe I refused to commit the image to SD card if it was to be contaminated by that monument.

ImageP1080940 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

The entire nature of the walk changed as the comfort of the track was left for the torture of a pathless, open hillside :shock: It certainly was every man, women or child for themselves as I slogged increasingly slowly up to the Mam Suidheig. It took me far longer than I had expected and set the scene for the remainder of the walk……..which took far longer than expected :(

ImageP1080942 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
It was a slow plod up this

ImageP1080949 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Enjoying some wildlife

ImageP1080964 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
View from the ridge to my eventual objective

Once on the ridge and heading toward the Aonach Sgoilte the nature of the walk changes once again. There is a path, but don’t be fooled, it is a tough, tough walk and I was already struggling. I don’t want to over dramatise how I was feeling, but if I could describe it in a single word it would be…….sh*te…….. :lol: Abdominal pains and twinges of varying degrees throughout most of the walk had me constantly worrying. This just had the effect of slowing me down (and I was going slow enough anyway), compounding my anxiety. On your own in the middle of the Rough Bounds when you don’t your best probably isn’t the best thing to be doing to be honest, but there I was. As a result, plenty of prayers were offered to the Almighty as I walked, asking for safekeeping on the rest of this adventure.

ImageP1080966 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Toward the Aonach Sgoilte

ImageP1080978 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
And the view from the other side

There were some positives though. Despite no mobile reception in Inverie I was enjoying 4G on the hill :D At least I could check in with MrsR regularly to keep her updated on progress and stop her worrying too much.

Despite my anxieties and worryingly slow pace I was still able to appreciate where I was. The route up and over Aonach Sgoilte is simply superb :lol: Looks great on approach and equally so as I looked back from the other side. In descent my heart did sink a little when I saw just how much height needed to be lost ahead of the climb up to point 849. I thought I’d be able to cheat and not lose so much height by picking a route to the right of the path. I soon discovered this was a false optimism. Clearly the path didn’t lie and once I’d got back on to it and accepted the drop required the walk up to point 849 was without incident.

ImageP1080983 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
The view opening up toward Ladhar Bheinn

To this point the true majesty of Ladhar Bheinn had been building slowly as I’d been walking along the Aonach Sgoilte ridge but arriving at point 849 it really smacked me in the face. Just stunning, as were the views to one of my favorite hills across Loch Hourn, Beinn Sgritheall.

ImageP1080993 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Looks superb

ImageP1080995 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Looked daunting to me

ImageP1080989 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Beinn Sgritheall

ImageP1090002 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

Dropping down to the Bealach Coire Dhorrcail and the enormity of Ladhar Bheinn really did hit me. It’s looks a challenge when taken on its own, but I’d already been walking for hours.

And of course by now I was bu****d :shock:

Met a group heading down off the hill, as I was arriving to start the climb from the Bealach Coire Dhorrcail. They had boated over from Arnisdale and were having a great day by all accounts. I think they could clearly see though just how spent I was, and there were some concerned faces as we went our separate ways. They had mentioned a couple of tricky sections to come, but nothing too bad they said. The first was pretty much immediate and may have been straightforward, but the final “tricky bit”, well that was of a different order of magnitude :shock: And so close to achieving the summit as well.

Just before that though I met a father and son combo who were also heading down and in their case back to the Druim bothy. The father also mentioned this tricky little scramble to me. I must have been doing a pretty good impression of someone who was utterly done in at this point, as he was clearly concerned for my wellbeing. As they headed down and I continued to plod slowly up I could see that they were stopping often, watching my progress. It felt to me that the father was wanting to make sure I was successful in navigating the final obstacle before the summit. I actually met him again on the Sunday, where he pretty much confirmed what I was sensing. Massive respect to the man for his concern :clap: I was feeling pretty low by this point and just sensing someone was checking to make sure I got over the worst section gave me that bit of a boost I needed.

Amazingly (and annoyingly) I didn’t actually take a photo at close quarters of that final scramble :roll: I was faced by what looked like a wall of rock. The path suggested a big step up to the right, but my limbs weren’t that flexible. There was a suggestion of a series of smaller, yet still sizeable ledges to climb to the left of the rock face. I immediately moved to the smaller ledges but once up on to the first ledge couldn’t easily see how to safely navigate on to the second. So I dropped back down and thought about reevaluating the big step on the right. That just wasn’t going to happen :lol:, so I was back to the smaller ledges. Tried them a second time, but still the move to the second ledge didn’t seem to be there. Dropped down a second time. Mild panic was setting in now. I was so close, yet it looked like I’d be driven back by a single move just a short distance from the summit.

Standing there evaluating the ledges I thought there might be a move to the far left of the first ledge. If I was right then this would give me a fighting chance of levering myself on to the second ledge. From there it looked like all troubles would be over as the rest of the scramble would be ok. So I went again……..it wasn’t pretty and I certainly wouldn’t score highly for style or artistic interpretation :lol:, but by using any means and body parts I could I hauled myself up and over the scramble. Not sure how it would have ended had I slipped (well, maybe I do….. :shock: ) but once on easier ground there was just an immense sense of relief at having survived and knowing I was going to make the summit after all :D

ImageP1090007 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
The view looking back

ImageP1090012 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
The final push to the summit

ImageP1090021 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Still quite steep though

ImageP1090027 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
At last......

ImageP1090032 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
And the view behind me

I could now enjoy the views behind me as well as the slow plod to the east summit. Ok, I was spent and my head was screwed, but I could still appreciate the “wow” moment as I hit the east summit and made my way along the ridge to the actual summit itself. A quick, quiet prayer of thanks to the Almighty for His continued protection and then a text to MrsR to keep her informed of progress :D

ImageP1090036 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
And across Loch Hourn

ImageP1090041 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Obligatory shot of the trig pillar

Following the WH route the descent off the hill was something of a welcome anti-climax following the serious effort taken in achieving its summit. There’s a path all the way, even if it is a bit ropey in places. Pleasingly uneventful though, as it dropped down through the Coire Garbh.

Eventually I was walking alongside the All Coire Torr an Asgaill and hitting the good track that would take me all the way, eventually, to the Old Forge and another expensive pint with my name on it. Nursed it for a while, as I checked in with MrsR. The plan for Sunday, as the fifeflyer was also to discover ( :lol: :lol: :lol: ), was to have a bit of lie in and then tackle the Munro of Meall Buidhe on the Sunday, in a relaxed style. Hopefully I’d get a better night’s sleep…………

…………except that night it rained……… :roll:


Meall Buidhe………….the penultimate one

Relatively speaking this was to be a much easier day. It seemed that Ladhar Bheinn had been a “kill or cure” with my abdominal issues and I was feeling much less anxious as my planned for lie in was curtailed on account of fellow campers thinking a 7 to 7.30 start was a good idea :roll:

I may have been a little later in getting moving again, but sore legs aside, I was happy to just amble to this summit. Annoyingly the initial part of the route was a repeat of the day before, which meant having to suffer than damn traitor’s memorial once again.

A very pleasant walk once off the main Barrisdale track and heading on the track passed the Druim bothy. Once over the footbridge I had to choose the best place to leave the track and hit the pathless, open hillside. Thankfully for me the bracken that grows on the slope here abouts was neither too high or too thick. This meant that my slow progress wasn’t hampered further by tangling with the dreadful stuff.

ImageP1090054 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1090064 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1090069 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

Once on the ridge (again taking longer than I’d hoped :crazy: ) and the path located, it was just a case of making slow, steady progress to the summit. Always good views, although a few quick snow showers did pass over every now and again.

ImageP1090094 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1090099 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

Arriving at the top of An t-Uiriollach I met a couple of chaps heading down off the hill. They were aiming for Inverie and a welcome (and soon to be discovered, expensive) pint before the afternoon ferry to Mallaig. To this point I’d been blessed with pretty good weather on my two previous hills, so couldn’t complain really that clag was coming and going as I dropped down the minor top ahead of what looked like a steep final climb to the Munro summit. The path made it much easier than it had initially looked and soon enough I was making my way to my penultimate Munro summit.

ImageP1090100 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1090111 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1090113 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
The penultimate summit

When the clag did eventually lift a little I was convinced that the east summit looked higher, but I knew this wasn’t the case. And I certainly had no intention of heading over there to find out. Voices could be heard in that direction, even though I couldn’t see any physical bodies.

This was another up and down via the same route, as Luinne Bheinn had already been conquered. Enjoyed a more cliff edged walk back down before the drop off through the bracken and stuff to the track.

ImageP1090116 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1090125 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

Arriving at the track I met the voices I’d heard earlier. A few chaps who had diverted up Meall Buidhe en route to Inverie from Sourlies. Walked with them for a while, before they eventually moved ahead. It was on the walk back that I met the father from the father and son combo on Ladhar Bheinn, who had clearly been to the village to restock on alcohol. I think he was shocked I’d actually managed Meall Buidhe, given the state he’d seen me in the day before :lol:


Back at the campsite I was able to reflect on what had been three amazing days in an amazing area. I’d survived, which felt like an achievement in itself, given how I’d been feeling.

ImageP1090138 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Monday morning at the campsite

ImageP1090144 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
And a snow capped Meall Buidhe

ImageP1090155 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr

ImageP1090159 by Pete Riedel, on Flickr
Awaiting the arrival of the ferry

Leaving Inverie on the Monday morning was a strange feeling. I was just beginning to get in to the rhythm of the place, but all too soon was having to leave to return to normality. First though there was a four hour wait in Mallaig for my train. Arrived back there just before the hordes of coffin dodgers and nearly departed spewed from coaches and the steam train, so at least I was able to get a fish supper ahead of the queues :lol:

The jewel of the trip had definitely been Ladhar Bheinn, despite my obvious struggles on the day. I’m sure in the weeks and months to come I’ll be able to reflect further and really appreciate quite what I achieved on that day. She is a Beast for sure, but a Beauty all the same and I’m privileged to have climbed her and been granted access to her summit.

With Meall Buidhe bagged as well there could now be only one………..Sgurr Mor in Glen Kingie………a hill that would end up being attacked with a lot more urgency than my return to Knoydart had ever been…….. :wink: :lol:

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Location: North Ayrshire
Activity: Munro compleatist
Pub: Lewes Arms, East Sussex
Mountain: Mamores
Place: Glen Dessary
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