walkhighlands

The end of the round

Munros: A' Mhaighdean, Ruadh Stac Mòr

Date walked: 13/05/2023

Time taken: 16 hours

Distance: 50km

Ascent: 1400m

I had 2 Munros left to complete the round and had 2 weekends pencilled in for possible trips. Wanted to do the trip in May in a bid to avoid midges at much as possible after an aborted attempt from Lochan Fhada last September which was infested with them, the weather being the final nail in the coffin on that attempt.
The preferred route then was from Poolewe but there was a stalking party in Carnmore which prevented that on that occasion.
Was pleasantly surprised to see the weather gods providing appropriate conditions for the first of these weekends so final arrangements made.
We headed off from Glasgow just past 7 on Friday morning and was parked up in Poolewe and ready to walk in around 12:30. We, being my Wife’s eldest son Dario and myself.
He joined me on the Lochan Fhada trip so was due some decent weather and midge free camping.
Picture 1.jpg
View on nearing Poolewe

The walk in was very pleasant, blue skies and a slight breeze. It was sometimes too hot but seems a little churlish to complain about that!

The first section to Kernsary was straightforward with a check of the map to confirm the correct turn in to the forestry. Mergansers on the river, Divers in a Lochan we walked by, and Cuckoos galore made for additional interest.
Picture 2.jpg
Interesting mounds near Kernsary

After the crossing of the Abhainn an t'Strathain Buidhe the walk started to feel a bit of a slog, the heat starting to be felt, but the scenery more than made up for it.
Picture 3.jpg
Entering the wilderness

There were numerous mountain bikes left at various points along the route and a few tents were pitched the closer to the end of Fionn Loch.
Picture 4.jpg
Carnmore appearing

Eventually the causeway was reached, and a suitable spot selected above the path towards Carnmore with a stream that was flowing well from the crags above which provided a good water supply. Around 4.5 hours had been taken to this point.
Picture 5jpg.jpg
The causeway at the end of Fionn Loch


Once the tents were up and camp duties attended to it was good to relax in some of the finest mountain scenery accompanied by the constant calling of cuckoos, a conversation with 2 guys staying in the bothy (no water readily available near to it) who were climbing the crags behind Carnmore. After dinner had been made and consumed it was in bed by 10pm ready for an early start.
Picture 6.jpg
Not a bad view

Picture 7.jpg
Carnmore and Fionn Loch

The alarm went off following a good enough sleep and after breakfast and getting most of the camping gear packed ready to be uplifted later, we were away a little after 07:00.
The shade was welcome at the start of the walk as it got warm enough even at this time of day as we headed up into the gully by the Allt Bhruthach an Easain.
Picture 8.jpg
Heading off

Picture 9.jpg
Looking back

The going was on good enough paths and tracks up to the bealach between A' Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mòr and the small cairn that marked the turn off to Ruadh Stac Mòr was reached in a little over 2 hours.
Picture 10.jpg
Towards the bealach

It was only a short but steep climb to the summit of Ruadh Stac Mòr, the rock band being easy enough to negotiate.
Picture 11.jpg
On top of Ruadh Star Mor

A short stop on the top for a snack and admire the views across to Beinn Dearg Mòr and Bheag, An Teallach and the remainder of the Fisherfield peaks.

We then headed back down to the bealach and on towards A' Mhaighdean. A couple of people were passed heading the opposite way, one guy gave almost had to force a response, Christ knows why you would be so miserable in these surroundings and conditions that a basic hello is so hard to muster.
Picture 12.jpg
Negotiating the rock band

In around an hour and a half we were at the top of A' Mhaighdean and my round was complete.
Was not sure how I would feel when this moment arrived, I was thinking of the various people I had walked with, some sadly no longer with us (miss you Bro’), and the changes in my life in those years, 18th July 1996 and Ben Nevis was the start. All this was fleeting thoughts over the last 100 metres or so, then I was stood at what must be one of the smallest cairns to grace such a majestic spot.
A congratulations from Dario and we then set about a few pictures and settled down for a brew and some lunch.
Picture 13.jpg
Back to Read Stac Mor

Picture 14.jpg
Not a bad place to finish

I think I was still focussing on the walk out we were still to do to take in what had just been finished, the forecast was for rain to come through overnight and I did not fancy breaking camp and walking out with wet gear in the rain.
Had a good chat with a guy who appeared doing the usual Fisherfield round who looked extremely fit. He was good enough to take a few pictures to record the event.
Picture 15.jpg
Where we walked in from and still to head back

We then headed back down to the bealach and on to the tents at Carnmore. We dropped the tents and pack the bags for the walk out after replenishing water and checking all was clear and tidy.

The prospect of the long walk out did not appeal and by now the sun was in a clear sky and it was warm. I had the walk out broken into sections in my head to break it up, the first back to the Abhainn an t'Strathain Buidhe was not too bad. Then the moor crossing section to the forestry seemed to go on forever. A few folk passed us on mountain bikes on the way, I was wishing we had those stowed back at Kernsary. The track from there back to the car park was hard going and I felt I was in slow motion by the time I got to the car. We arrived back at the car at around 18:30.

A change of footwear and the lure of a McDonalds in Inverness which had kept me going the last couple of hours was to be realised. Then the drive back to Glasgow.
Home just before midnight absolutely shattered but happy with our exploits.

Thinking back over the various adventures that the round had provided, and a number of different people that it was a pleasure to share the hills with although the majority of the hills I have done alone. I think it appropriate to acknowledge them in this as they all played a part in me achieving my goal.
These are Brenda, Ian, Mike, James, Jo, Dario, Ariana, Neil, Gennaro, Puran and Richard. Particular mention to Iain who shared many fine adventures and trips in not the best weather and Steve Holmes at Synergy Guides for the Skye Munros.
Acknowledgement also to the Walkhighlands site and the sadly defunct Scottish Hills for great information and inspiration to alternate routes etc.


This journey started with a holiday to Scotland in 1996 and then only occasional trips north. The prospect of ever completing these hills seemed an illusion. The pages on the Scottish hill walks in Trail magazine read eagerly but not expected to place foot on most of them.
Moving to Scotland to live with my now wife, Brenda, enabled this to be more than that illusion and about a year or so ago realising that this could be done. Brenda and her family bought me 3 days of guiding on the Skye Munros for a significant birthday, which was both very touching and the key to me achieving this goal so a massive thank you to them.

The journey has also taken me to various parts of Scotland and although not a Scot, and having been lucky enough to travel extensively, I can say this is the best place to be in the world for the variety of landscape, wildlife and people.

There will be hills to be repeated in better weather than before, some to avoid, the Corbetts are a list I will work through and will see in a couple of years if the end of that list looks achievable. I also look forward to taking family and Grandchildren to the hills and camping out to see if the bug can be picked up by another generation, so plenty of reasons to stay healthy and in the mountains.

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Comments: 11



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Steve B


Location: Glasgow
Activity: Munro compleatist
Pub: Too many
Mountain: Too hard to say
Place: Far North West
Gear: Lowe Alpine Mountain Hat
Member: None
Ideal day out: A ridge walk with enough scrambling to be a bit scary

Munros: 282
Corbetts: 16
Wainwrights: 40
Hewitts: 62
Islands: 9



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Statistics

2023

Trips: 1
Distance: 50 km
Ascent: 1400m
Munros: 2

2022

Trips: 1
Distance: 32 km
Ascent: 1550m
Munros: 3

2013

Trips: 1
Munros: 2

2012

Trips: 5
Distance: 72.25 km
Ascent: 5110m
Munros: 6

2011

Trips: 12
Distance: 140.5 km
Ascent: 10810m
Munros: 27


Joined: Oct 25, 2010
Last visited: Mar 18, 2024
Total posts: 333 | Search posts