My first walk report (after many years of walking in Scotland).
Parked at Kylestrome (Kylesku Ferry as was) and walked east along an excellent track beside Loch Glendhu to Glendhu. A few showers but more sunshine. Stopped at the bothy for a brew then over the bridge and along the opposite shore now heading west to Aird da Loch. Picked up a good path and gently climbed up to the plateau to reach 260326. Altitude 200m. Having rounded the corner the path contoured around the hillside for 1.5 km heading SSE. This is an old stalkers track which is still in excellent condition. The path gently descended to Glencoul. Distant views of Eas a'Chual Aluinn promised excitement for the next day. Stayed overnight at Glencoul bothy in the company of a long distance walker on his way to Ullapool and two kayakers who had paddled in from the the sea. Excellent fire chaps, very welcome.
Next day SSE along the shore of Loch Beag. The best place to cross the river is close to the loch. Strange to see the sea so far inland (15km from the coast) Followed a rough path of sorts (but more than a deer track) along the west bank of the Abhainn an loch Bhig river to the foot of the highest waterfall in Britain. Wow. Even with low river levels its impressive. Sat for an hour or so waiting for the sun to come out but no luck. Unusually the foot of the waterfall is made up of eight or nine separate streams that all then join back together after a few yards or so. The water from the fall tastes fantastic. Carried on up the river valley close to the cliff. NOT beside the river which seems to emerge from a gorge. Picked up a very rough track that bears south, then west then north and climbs up to emerge at the top of the waterfall. Crossing the stream just above the waterfall seemed a bit too risky ! The river has a strong current One slip and you could be swept over the top. So I climbed up to the top of the cliff still on the south bank which was also a bit difficult. (There may be an easier path further east but I did not go back to look for it). I crossed the stream higher up and followed a a terrible path on the north bank for 700 m. This is peat bog hell. Best to stay on the south bank. Finally picked up an excellent path at 273278 leaving the river, going westwards and followed this back to the main road. While traversing around the shore of Loch na Gainmhich a helicopter landed in the lay-by on the A894. This turned out to be picking up the equipment from a film crew who all suddenly emerged from the hillside behind me, giving me a bit of a turn, having had the world to myself all day. Not sure what they were filming, it did not seem to be the falls but there is nothing else...
Having talked to the pilot (no chance of a lift then ?) I turned north along the main road back to the car. No luck trying to get a lift here either but only eight cars passed me during the six km and its a very scenic walk.
What a fantastic day. Standing at the top of the falls watching the river drop over the edge was impressive. Standing at the bottom looking up (and getting wet in the spray) was stunning.