Gozo - South Coast path
Date walked: 31/01/2024
Time taken: 4 hours
Distance: 12km
The coastal walk from the ferry port of Mgarr includes spectacular cliff walks and two deep inlets into the limestone scenery. The terminus is the attractive small harbor of Xlendi, from where a return bus can be boarded back to the port. This walk may be extended, with much effort, onward to Dwejra and the Inland Sea. There are a couple of cafes on the route but these are closed out of season, there are plenty of food stops in Xlendi.
The First, (easy) bit
Upon exit from the ferry terminal building turn left and go beneath an underpass, bear right and then up a slope on the left into a car park; continue to the end and out onto the open area between the shore and the Fort Chambray above. The path bears upward to pass above a steep mud slope and then down towards a rocky platform swimming area (Xatt l-Ahmar). The route is along well walked distinct paths and occasional vehicle tracks. On the shoreline are salt pans and a Fougasse , a primitive cannon formed in the rocky shore to deter invaders and pirates.
A defensive tower comes into view and the elevation of the path increases until it rounds a corner and goes ‘inland’ above a ria, Mgarr ix-Xini with a limestone cliff at the end (a Steephead valley no less). The path continues to rise until it passes houses at the lip of the valley; it then drops rapidly in steps until it reaches the shore and a small hamlet with beach.
The second, (Complicated) bit
Take the upper road out of the hamlet and at the widening of the road turn left along a track that gradually rises and curves away from the valley. This meets a small tarmac road; (continue straight on until a sharp right hand bend. At this point you have two options; (option A) continuing on the road takes you back round above the valley and to a track at Qortin iz-Zghir straight on from a bend which takes you onto Qortin Il-Kbir hill and the Ta Cenc cliffs (option A.1). Keeping to the well-made road takes you into the outskirts of Sannat (option A.2) near the hotel (Point Z on the map). (option A.1) At the cliffs take the perpendicular path inland to pass the back of the hotel and meet up with the Option A.2 road at Point Z.
Being contrary types with took our Option B route at the sharp bend which was to go down the track straight on, turn left and pass across a small valley on a bridge this takes you onto a nice coastal walk towards the Ras in Newwiela promontory with good views of the Ta Cenc cliffs. Follow this meandering track until it ascends and bends around the end of the limestone ridge and you can then pick up the path to the Ta Cenc viewpoint. Alternatively you can take a well-made track straight to point Z.
We have not found a track along the cliffs Westwards from TA Cenc (which doesn’t mean one doesn’t exist) so we went through the outskirts of Sannat, along the road from point Z for about 800m, past the hotel, past the reservoir to a five way junction (point Y on map- if you reach the church you have gone too far). 1st left takes you to a small park area but you cannot access the cliffs, 2nd left goes due East and turns right after 100m and then left brings you (at Point W) to a small road/track that takes you after 600m to the cliff edge. You are now on the Saguna Cliffs (some 800m from the Ta Cenc cliff; enjoy the views.
The third, (easy) bit
This is a superb cliff top walk along the Saguna and Sannap cliffs with great views along the coast and over to Coimno and Malta. There is a fine paved walkway, funded by the EU, till Il Hodbha but this is an easy part even when unpaved. After about 2000m the path descends from the limestone via series of small steps and gullies, nothing too challenging to the fit. The Xlendi watchtower is now in view and the path curves around a small bay and straightens to pass behind the tower. It then turns sharply right and follows, at high level the steep ria valley of Xlendi bay. It then eases down to a stone bridge over a small ravine branching off the main inlet to the sea. Keeping to the low level path it continues onto a paved walkway leading round and into the small harbor area.
Xlendi is a small resort with surprisingly tall buildings. There are a number of good restaurants, some of which are open out of season, the Boathouse near the jetty is recommended. The bus back to the ferry Port (Mgarr) can be caught in the square (bus route 306); it goes via Rabat/Victoria the capital. The old citadel Rabat is worth a stopover visit.
There is a path on the West side of the harbor going up onto the cliffs and eventually reaching Dwejra after about 6Km; the bus route back from there to Rabat/Victoria is No. 311
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