Easains in the sun and snow
Route: Stob Coire Easain and Stob a'Choire Mheadhoin
Munros: Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin, Stob Coire Easain
Date walked: 26/02/2024
Time taken: 8.8 hours
Distance: 17km
Ascent: 1200m
After a drive of 3 hours 20 minutes, I was ready to set off from the parking area at Fersit at 10:35, stopping for a chat with another walker who was going to do the two hills on the east side of Loch Treig, which I did a couple of weeks ago. I'd felt the beginnings of a chesty cold last night, so I hoped that it wouldn't get in the way of completing the walk, and I hoped that the longer daylight by now might allow me to be back at the car before dark - a vain hope, as it turned out! The forecast was for light winds and little cloud on the tops, but the cloud was down even on the first hump of the walk, Meall Cian Dearg. Here's hoping that the weather would start to align with the forecast.
The first part of the walk was along good tracks before heading up towards the fabled hydro pillar.
It was a bit boggy, but the ground was part frozen which helped. Soon, I came to the snow line, and then saw the hydro pillar. It may be a landmark, but it isn't worthy of a visit just for itself.
By now, I could start to see the steep climb ahead up Meall Cian Dearg, which was no longer in the cloud. This was a part of the walk which I wasn't entirely looking forward to, not knowing either how easy it would be to find a route up, or just how steep it would actually be. Luckily, there were clear tracks in the snow from people who had been up at the weekend, so at least route finding shouldn't be a problem.
By the time I reached the steep section, the sun had come out, and it remained out (if hazy some of the time) for the rest of the walk (until dark, that is). I started without crampons, since even the trodden down snow wasn't hard or icy and had a reasonable grip. It was pretty steep, and you wouldn't want to slip, but it was manageable. I didn't look back very often! In the steepest section, I came to a big boulder which needed both hands, both feet and my chest to grip, so I realised it was time for crampons. Even with crampons, it was still a bit awkward getting over the boulder, but it was so much easier after that, with feet which just stuck in place. This was my first use of crampons in earnest since I did a winter skills course, and they were something of a revelation. The rest of the climb was still very steep but straightforward, and overall it took about 50 minutes from the base.
Once at the top, I took the crampons off again, since the snow wasn't at all deep. Surprisingly, because the wind was so light, I didn't need to put on any extra clothing, and managed in just a non-windproof fleece for the whole walk (plus gloves).
There were clear views of the three Munros I climbed in November south of Loch Laggan: Beinn a' Chlachair, Geal Chàrn and Creag Pitridh - nicer conditions than I saw on that day.
Seeing the two summits ahead for the first time was quite an impressive sight. It looked a long way to go - actually in terms of distance, I was just past the half way mark.
The walk along the ridge was quite easy until the climb up to Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin's shoulder. By this time, the snow was often deeper, and it saved a lot of effort to follow the weekenders' footprints, to avoid sinking too much into the snow.
Finally I reached the push up towards the summit of Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin. This was harder work, but I was rewarded by hearing the croak of a raven which could be seen flying along the ridge below. It was great to finally reach the summit, although I knew that I'd have to climb it again on the way back. The views were amazing, with hills in all directions covered in snow.
After taking in the views, I started heading down towards the col leading to Stob Coire Easain. Once down a little, the peak could be seen in all its glory, rising up steeply ahead. Again, tracks could be clearly seen leading to the summit.
The climb up the steep section was quite tiring, but not over difficult. I didn't see a need for crampons since my boots were holding fine. I'd wondered before the walk how safe the ascent would be, but as long as you don't go to the corrie edge, at worst you'd slide down the slope which becomes shallower not too far below. I was glad to finally reach the top, of what of course was only the second of three peaks!
I spent 10 minutes taking in the views - even better than from Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin. But by this time, it was 3.45 pm and I was running behind schedule, and I wanted to do the steep descent of Meall Cian Dearg while it was still light.
The slope back up Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin wasn't as steep as Stob Coire Easain, so it ended up being easier than the top I'd just done, I'm glad to say. Once up Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin again, it was downhill all the way.
I'd forgotten how far it was to the end of the ridge, but when I reached the edge of Meall Cian Dearg, it was 5.30 pm and thankfully still light. Crampons on, the descent went slowly but surely, following the tracks in the snow again. By the time I got to the bottom of the steep section, the light was fading, but I made it to the sheep fold before having to use my head torch to find the way. I kept the crampons on until the snow ran out, since it avoided slips in the dark. On the way, I saw a hare in the gloom, and heard a grouse. Eventually, I reached the track leading to the loch, and half an hour later I was back at the car, tired but pleased at having taken up the challenge. It was another stop at Mehmood's Indian restaurant in Newtonmore, to fortify me for the long drive home.
Unfortunately, I spent the next day and a bit in bed with whatever virus I was brewing, probably exacerbated by the exertion of the walk (and possibly contributing to me taking longer than expected to complete the walk). But it was worth taking the opportunity of a good weather day, which doesn't come often enough.
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djarvie
- Location: Aberdeen
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