Anyone who wants to experience the Black Cullin but who feels daunted by what they've heard should do this route. It starts from the back of the Sligachan Hotel on the A863 Dunvegan road, where two tracks go off left. Take either as they soon converge. Soon after cross a bridge and head out on a clear path which eventually starts to follow the west bank of the Allt Dearg Beag. Continue on same path without crossing at next foot-bridge. The route will take you into the mouth of the Basteir Gorge. When you cannot go any further strike uphill to sharp right onto the North-East ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir. Zig-zagging at first, you generally keep to the right as much as possible to avoid a huge gully that makes any progress left an impossibility. The scrambling is interesting and not really challenging. Eventually you see the North-West ridge converging with your ridge. After that there's a cute arete to negotiate before the summit of Sgurr a Bhasteir. From there the views of the Bhasteir Tooth are awe-inspiring.

There's a strange intimacy at the top despite the looming presence of the surrounding rock formations. This is partly to do with the friendliness of the Fionn Choire below where you can see other walkers coming up along the trade route from Sligachan. To get to Bruach na Frithe you just carry on contouring to the right round the lip of the Choire. From the summit of Bruach na Frithe descend along the East ridge. I started on the right of the spine itself but soon moved to the left where access seemed easier. The descent is problem-free. Eventually when the ridge flattens out you go half-right. Keeping right, skirt the nearside of a Am Mam (a hill) to pick up the long, long path back to Sligachan via the Allt Dearg Mor. Don't be misled by the road you hit near the Allt Dearg House. Don't follow it too long as the path leaves it again soon on the right. It's easy to lose concentration here and carry on along the tarmac. Keep to the river as much as possible when the going gets really boggy.

This was a rewarding and straightforward ridge walk. The views are stupendous. The Allt Dearg Mor is a beautiful river to descend by. I would recommend it to anyone for their first Black Cullin walk on Skye.