A storm in a Cromarty teacup
Route: Cromarty explorer
Date walked: 19/02/2024
Distance: 6.5km
It was a spur of the moment decision to do this walk. Weather looked good for Cromarty and Moira had a narrow time frame to fit something in. We had done it a few years before with Liz and Roger and knew it was worth repeating. We parked where WH suggests and headed in the direction of the South Sutor. It was a beautiful morning with blue sky and sunshine... but that was about to change with cloud beginning to appear from the west.
Across the Cromarty Firth to Nigg
White walled cottages
A bonny place to sit
The Sutors ahead
We were slightly concerned the WH warning about storm damage (currently preceding the walk description) might mean a tedious detour inland. It says "The coastal path from Cromarty to the South Sutor has been badly affected by Storm Babet; there is a signed detour inland which must be followed and care taken.". When we reached the left turn off Miller Road there was a sign indicating the path had been closed but it appeared that was no longer the case.
Footpath no longer closed
View back to oil rig
Moira
Narrow entrance to the firth
The damaged section was very short. A particularly high tide had caused the collapse of part of the path. It would have been easy enough to step down from the path and continue along the stones to where the path was intact but we'd been told the detour "must be followed and care taken" so we obediently went through a gate and walked along the far side of the fence to a second gate beyond the damage. We wondered if there was more damage to come but that was the sum total of it. Really nothing at all.
Storm damage
Damaged section from other end
Normal path resumed
We passed the house disguising Cromarty's sewage station ironically at the exact moment I was looking for a dog poo bin, which I didn't find and had to carry the offending item for much longer than I wanted to. With the number of dog walkers using this route I'd have thought an occasional bin important; but then of course it means they have to be emptied which costs money. Inverness is well supplied with poo bins so I'm probably spoiled.
Next we came to the part I remembered from before, the steps.
Down steps
Up steps
WW2 pillbox
We followed the WH instructions and emerged out of the woodland, supposedly at the viewpoint, but it wasn't immediately visible so my instincts said to climb higher which we did by going through a gate and up a path over grass. But that was wrong.
North Sutor
Moira checking the map before calling me back
We returned to the minor road and started our descent when I spotted a sign off to the left for the viewpoint. So up we went.
South Sutor viewpoint
Zoomed from near viewpoint showing how much cloud had come in
We returned to the road for a relaxed amble down through the fields.
Zoomed to Cromarty
Unicorn at the stables
The Stables arts venue
Brewery, restored as a training centre
Cromarty's most famous son is almost certainly Hugh Miller. Remembered as a fossil hunter, stonemason, geologist, man of faith, editor, writer and social justice campaigner he was one of the great Scots of the 19th century. He also suffered from a mental illness which at times made him delusional, causing him to fear he would harm his wife and children. It is possible this fear was a factor in his taking his own life in 1856.
Hugh Miller's birthplace in 1802
House built by his father in which he later lived
Restored 700 year old East Church
Interesting tree
Jetty from where there are summer ferry crossings to Nigg
Oil rig and harbour
We passed the Slaughterhouse coffee shop with outdoor tables made of cable spools and were soon back at the car and on our way in time for Moira's appointment. It's a great short walk and folk shouldn't be put off by the warning of a detour as it amounts to very little.
Across the Cromarty Firth to Nigg
White walled cottages
A bonny place to sit
The Sutors ahead
We were slightly concerned the WH warning about storm damage (currently preceding the walk description) might mean a tedious detour inland. It says "The coastal path from Cromarty to the South Sutor has been badly affected by Storm Babet; there is a signed detour inland which must be followed and care taken.". When we reached the left turn off Miller Road there was a sign indicating the path had been closed but it appeared that was no longer the case.
Footpath no longer closed
View back to oil rig
Moira
Narrow entrance to the firth
The damaged section was very short. A particularly high tide had caused the collapse of part of the path. It would have been easy enough to step down from the path and continue along the stones to where the path was intact but we'd been told the detour "must be followed and care taken" so we obediently went through a gate and walked along the far side of the fence to a second gate beyond the damage. We wondered if there was more damage to come but that was the sum total of it. Really nothing at all.
Storm damage
Damaged section from other end
Normal path resumed
We passed the house disguising Cromarty's sewage station ironically at the exact moment I was looking for a dog poo bin, which I didn't find and had to carry the offending item for much longer than I wanted to. With the number of dog walkers using this route I'd have thought an occasional bin important; but then of course it means they have to be emptied which costs money. Inverness is well supplied with poo bins so I'm probably spoiled.
Next we came to the part I remembered from before, the steps.
Down steps
Up steps
WW2 pillbox
We followed the WH instructions and emerged out of the woodland, supposedly at the viewpoint, but it wasn't immediately visible so my instincts said to climb higher which we did by going through a gate and up a path over grass. But that was wrong.
North Sutor
Moira checking the map before calling me back
We returned to the minor road and started our descent when I spotted a sign off to the left for the viewpoint. So up we went.
South Sutor viewpoint
Zoomed from near viewpoint showing how much cloud had come in
We returned to the road for a relaxed amble down through the fields.
Zoomed to Cromarty
Unicorn at the stables
The Stables arts venue
Brewery, restored as a training centre
Cromarty's most famous son is almost certainly Hugh Miller. Remembered as a fossil hunter, stonemason, geologist, man of faith, editor, writer and social justice campaigner he was one of the great Scots of the 19th century. He also suffered from a mental illness which at times made him delusional, causing him to fear he would harm his wife and children. It is possible this fear was a factor in his taking his own life in 1856.
Hugh Miller's birthplace in 1802
House built by his father in which he later lived
Restored 700 year old East Church
Interesting tree
Jetty from where there are summer ferry crossings to Nigg
Oil rig and harbour
We passed the Slaughterhouse coffee shop with outdoor tables made of cable spools and were soon back at the car and on our way in time for Moira's appointment. It's a great short walk and folk shouldn't be put off by the warning of a detour as it amounts to very little.
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