walkhighlands

Blair Atholl to Aviemore - a Cairngorms trail

Date walked: 02/06/2022

Time taken: 3 days

Distance: 85km

Ascent: 2100m

Blair Atholl to Aviemore - a Cairngorms trail (85km, 2000m ascent).


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This is a long distance walk through the centre of the Cairngorms National Park. It shows off the forests, rivers and high mountains which make it such a special place.

This route described here would be ideal for experienced long distance hikers on their first visit to Scotland, or people who have completed the West Highland Way and are seeking something a bit more adventurous. It would also serve as a good test run for those preparing for the fabulous Cape Wrath Trail (400km) – you can find my report for that epic trek here: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=100991

The Cairngorms are one of the wildest parts of the UK – there is no tree cover and no mobile phone reception for long sections of this walk. There are also no waymarks (e.g. the classic white/red/white found in Europe), so you will need to be skilled with a map and compass. I used a combination of the OS maps app on my phone along with the Harveys Mountain Map for the Cairngorms (though this misses out the start of the trail).

I walked the route in two and half days in stunning weather. I think this was too quick - I was footsore by the end, and I wish I had more time to soak in the views or swim in the lochs and rivers. I’d recommend setting aside four or five days instead, depending on your fitness levels, and also taking into account any navigational errors. There are a number of variations to the route that could shorten or extend this. For reference, I am an experienced hillwalker and am currently training for a marathon!

Key features:

    Can be accessed through straightforward and frequent public transport to Blair Atholl and Aviemore

    Linear walk - feels like you're going somewhere!

    Captures the gentle hills of Perthshire, the grand mountains of the central Cairngorms, and the deep forests of Glenmore and Rothiemurchus

    No accommodation. You must bring a tent or bivvy bag as the bothies are often full

    Several river crossings that could be dangerous in spate

Section 1: Glen Tilt

Following a substantial Greggs breakfast, I caught the megabus from Edinburgh at the relaxed time of 8.50am, arriving at Blair Atholl at 11.30am. For those of you new to Scotland, you’ll experience the excitement of crossing the Forth and the slow transition from the highly populated “central belt” to the wilds of the north. On the final approach into the village you get a glimpse down onto the gurgling River Tilt - your companion for the first section of the walk.

The Atholl Arms - the hotel opposite which the bus stops - supplied me with a cup of tea and water for my bottles. Hydrated, I finally faced the inevitable and hoisted my heavy pack onto my shoulders and headed out. The shock of the weight of the rucksack soon fades, but even so…

The first short section took me up the Duke of Atholl's drive towards his grand castle, but I soon diverted north-east toward the walkers’ car park. This was busy with other hikers and cyclists out to enjoy the weather. Take the track just to the right of the pretty stone gatehouse.

From here the route is simple - head up Glen Tilt. I'd advise staying on the west side of the river, taking the uphill option to the left at a fork in the trail. After a section of birch woodland, you get the excitement of walking through a rifle range (best to check it's not being used!). The Union Flag was flying here, celebrating the Platinum Jubilee. The more substantial landrover track that takes you to the other side of the river is of much better quality but quite hard on the feet.

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After the rifle range make sure you stay close to the river - don't be tempted by following any of the baggers uphill! Eventually I passed over an ancient, dainty bridge before joining with the main track at Gaw's bridge, just after Marble Lodge. There were plenty of Wheatear here - a small bird with an obvious black band around the eye. You can continue to avoid this track by taking a rougher, higher path, after a kilometre or so.

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CAMPING SPOT: There are an abundance of good places to pitch a tent before the glen narrows later on. Please abide by the Outdoor Access Code, making sure not to disturb those who live and work here. No fires!

After passing through the grounds of Forest Lodge, I headed further and deeper into the glen. There is real drama here as the looming Beinn a'Ghlo rises to the east and the river passes over a number of waterfalls. A track to the left, just below a small hill called Dun Beag, would bring you to the bothy called, optimistically, the "Tarf Hotel". I briefly considered this long detour from the main route to help inform this report, but decided to leave that to someone else.

BOTHY: Tarf Hotel/Feith Uaine. A very long detour from the main route and the bothy could be confused with a building marked at the end of the trail leading up from Glen Tilt. The shelter is actually much further up the Tarf Water, to the extent that it might make more sense to reach it via the summit of Carn a’Chlamain. Be warned!

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Instead, I continued up the increasingly trench-like Glen Tilt - the river is arrow straight along this section. There is a precarious wire bridge that thrillseekers might consider - it’s a long drop into the river! A more benign crossing is reached later and the smart Bedford Bridge (1886) is a superb vantage point for the Falls of Tarf. There is a dark history here though - it was built in memory of an 18 year old who drowned nearby.

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CAMPING SPOT: There is space for a couple of tents at Bedford Bridge, and plenty of alternative spots just before you reach it as the river turns to the north.

The walk now has a different feel from before - the terrain is more heathery and lumpy, and soon opens out into the boggy watershed as you reach the high point of this section of the route. In wet conditions this could be hard going, but looking ahead you can catch your first glimpse of Ben Macdui - the second highest mountain in the UK. I was starting to tire, so I started to look for a good place to camp. Having been advised by two other walkers that the ruins of Bynack Lodge were a good spot, I cut my day slightly short, pitching my tent under the tall pines.

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I tucked into dinner: rice, oatcakes and cheese, and hot chocolate, at all times watched by a group of curious lambs. Curlews, with their distinctive call, circled the ruins and Grey wagtails flitted up and down the river. Good night!

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CAMPING SPOT: After the wet watershed there are plenty of good places for camping, particularly near the Bynack Burn and the Allt an t-Seilich. It’s exposed though - you might want to continue to the bothy (see below) or further down towards the Dee.

Section 2: The Dee and the Mountains

I took my time in the morning, enjoying the sun on the tent and the ever-present lambs. There was not a cloud in the sky and I was full of excitement for a day in the mountains.

I decided to risk taking water from the Bynack Burn despite the presence of the sheep - most water sources on from here would be downstream from bothies and, on balance, I thought this was the better option to avoid falling ill. Two river crossings are then needed. I was able to cross these without taking off my shoes, but in spate these could be hard to negotiate, both being wide and fast flowing.

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I took a quick detour to the Red House bothy, currently being restored by the Mountain Bothy Association. Recently re-pointed, and with a partially constructed roof, it looked great. I offered my thanks to the MBA volunteers working inside. This may be ready for use later in 2022.

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BOTHY: Red House/Ruighe Ealasaid. A short detour from the route. Under construction at the time of writing.

I continued north towards White Bridge, marching along the wide landrover track. There was plenty of bird life here, including the seldom seen Lapwing or “Peewit”. This track will be familiar with those who have bagged the ultra-remote Munros An Sgarsoch and Carn an Fhidhleir.

I met a group of Duke of Edinburgh award candidates and was impressed by their speed and diligent navigation - they were headed in the same direction as me. I had a good chat with their supervisors camping nearby, who seemed rather more relaxed!

CAMPING SPOT: Endless spots for camping at the Chest of Dee. Take your pick!

At White Bridge I decided to cross the River Dee, mighty even this far into the mountains, and kept to its north/east bank as I headed north, deeper into the Cairngorms. The pools here are translucent and full of fish - I just about resisted the temptation to jump in. Cold water shock isn’t to be trifled with when walking alone!

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There is a track on the other side of the river - this doesn’t look quite as enticing, and necessitates a river crossing further up the glen.

By now the heat was rising fast and I began to feel quite unwell despite working hard to get as much water down me as possible. Just as the Devil’s Point, a distinctive pyramid of rock, came into view I decided to stop, covering myself up with my towel, jumper and hat and taking a long nap in the heather. I was aware that those suffering from heat stroke are often found with plenty of water left over, so when I woke I took several more big gulps just to keep things ticking over.

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This was worth it - it was utterly still and there was no shelter for miles. The sun was still rising, and the large Adder rustling busily through the heather would have been delighted with the sultry heat. This mammal not so much.

The path aligns itself with the 550m contour line as it approaches the pass of the Lairig Ghru - here, a judgement needs to be made as to when best to cross the rough ground to the east and meet with the higher track. An alternative option is to extend your walk as far as Corrour Bothy (and perhaps continue in that direction - see the footnotes).

BOTHY: Corrour. Adds around 5km to the walk and is a popular spot for those making their way along the Lairig Ghru. Small.

Once I’d met with the higher track (strenuous effort required), the going got much easier. At the Luibeg Burn I’d advise swinging north to the bridge - the river crossing could be tricky. This was also a good spot for collecting more water, with fewer campers this high up the river.

Here you get the first taste of the natural pinewoods that are slowly returning to the Cairngorms. It’s just glorious, and in the extraordinary heat (at least for Scotland) the smell was overwhelming. It reminded me of the scent of trees in Yosemite or the Mediterranean.

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It just got better and better - the walk towards Derry Lodge is made of similar stuff, and lyrical birdsong accompanied me all the way down Glen Luibeg.

At the bridge at Derry Lodge (boarded up - not a bothy), I noted a sign explaining that the bridge north at Derry Dam was closed due to flood damage. Given the conditions, I decided to risk the river crossing and stayed on the west side of the river as I headed north up Glen Derry. If the river is in spate I’d advise crossing the bridge and taking the track on the east side instead.

BOTHY: Bob Scott’s south of Derry Lodge

CAMPING SPOT: Plenty of places to camp around Derry Lodge. It might be worth heading north up Glen Derry to avoid the crowds. No fires!

The path here is gentle, flowing, and whisks you up into ever more pinewoods before the glen opens up. With the bridge closed, I took my shoes off for the only time on this trip,crossing the sandy bottom of the Derry Burn just upriver from the closed bridge.

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The glen feels softer and more habitable than the Lairig Ghru - I was enjoyed the contrast. Later, you start to get glimpses of the Barns of Beinn Mheadhoin - huge granite Tors on the summit of this hidden Munro.

At the junction of the tracks turn left - the fainter one to the right leads to the Lairig an Laoigh, the sister pass to the Lairig Ghru. Climb into the bowl of Coire Etchachan, reaching the basic shelter here. In poor conditions it would be sensible to stop here unless confident in making it to the shores of Loch Avon on the same day. The mountain pass is uncompromising (see footnotes for an alternative route).

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BOTHY: Hutchison. A small shelter.

Continue making the steep ascent to Loch Etchachan. This high loch, at 927m, is a stunning spot for a truly wild camp. I pitched my tent between it and Little Loch Etchachan, setting my stove up on the water’s edge and enjoying a second night away from the rest of the world.

Note that this area is exceptionally exposed - no place to be caught in inclement weather.

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CAMPING SPOT: The shore of Loch Etchachan. Exposed, above 3000ft, but a stunning location.

Section 3: Loch Avon & Rothiemurchus

It was warm enough in the morning to eat breakfast in my shorts and baselayer - unusual in Scotland! Feeling a bit groggy, I took the opportunity to strip off and have a quick dunk in the loch. Feeling much refreshed with the sweat and grime from the prior day cleaned off, I packed up and waved goodbye to those just emerging from their tents.

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I set out towards Loch Avon - it was quite wet here, with some of the outflow from Loch Etchachan running north. There follows a steep, gravelly descent where great care must be taken. I fell a couple of times here, losing my grip on the surface. The views down towards the loch are stunning - another worthy breakfast spot.

Huge cliffs to your left have sent boulders cascading towards the loch; as the path levels out, you have to negotiate this awkward mess of tangled rock. It’s worth seeking out the “Shelter Stone” - an enormous specimen under which a small group would be able to sleep in an emergency. It’s dark and dingy!

BOTHY: The Shelter Stone. A big rock. Only if you’re desperate.

After the boulder field comes a tricky river crossing - if the snow patches high above are in thaw, you may have trouble crossing here. I took the standard approach of heading upstream to find a crossing, but it would have been far easier to head to the loch edge and cross there, on the sandy bottom.

CAMPING SPOT: At the west end of Loch Avon. Great spot for swimming.

The track along the north shore of the loch is narrow and undulating - much harder work than you might expect. Make sure not to take the steep track up into Coire Raibeirt - this would take you to the summit of Cairn Gorm itself.

Soon after I came across the gently sloping - and correct - track up to the saddle. Here you can decide whether to continue to the Fords of Avon and pass to the east of Bynack More (see footnotes), or drop into Strath Nethy. I decided to try the latter and headed towards the rocky valley.

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The track, marked as intermittent by Harveys, is basic and similar to that along the shore of Loch Avon. You get a sense of solitude here and the pass is surprisingly dramatic before it widens later.

There seemed to be much more in the way of fauna and flora, too, and I tried to identify as much as I could - cloudberry in flower and talkative Stonechat the highlights. The map shows the track ending about half way down before reappearing again on the other side of the river. In fact, there is a well trodden route on the east side of the river all the way to the footbridge, though this could be very wet in rainy conditions.

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It was a relief when I finally reached the main track that heads towards Bynack More and the Lairig an Laoigh. I picked up speed and passed through yet more signs of the nascent forest, small pines and broadleafs pushing out of the heather - good conditions for Black Grouse, I reckon, with the scattered trees. I nearly stood on another Adder, and came across another bathing in the sun later on.

CAMPING SPOT: On the River Nethy once you reach the main track. Might be difficult to find a good pitch given the depth of the heather.

This path then meets with the Ryvoan Pass - another glorious spot, and the site of An Lochan Uaine - the small green lake - which was emerald green in the sunlight. I experienced the shock of meeting hordes of people walking up from Glenmore, but I was glad to see so many people enjoying the weather.

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BOTHY: Ryvoan. Exceptionally busy given its proximity to the road.

I warned several dog walkers of the Adders up ahead and was surprised at how quickly the leads went on when it was their pet in danger (having ignored all the signs asking them to do so). This is an important area for rare species such as the Capercaillie - please don’t let your bonkers spaniel fire off into the undergrowth.

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Feeling rather Machiavellian, every out-of-control-dog walker in Rothiemurchus and Glenmore was warned about the Adders that day. Doing my bit.

There was also quite an extraordinary amount of tree pollen being emitted by the pines. This manifested as a light fog, and swirled across the forest in the breeze. I had to keep wiping my face clean!

From here there are numerous ways which you could walk to Aviemore. Many of the minor tracks marked on the map simply don’t exist, and un-documented trails can be confused for the one you might be aiming for. Keep your wits about you!

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I’d personally recommend taking the second left after Lochan Uaine (just before Glenmore Lodge) and following the meandering streams of Allt na Feithe Duibhe and then Abhainn Ruigh-eunachan to the shores of Loch Morlich. Here you can take the opportunity to get some food at the cafe near the reindeer centre.

I ordered soup and panini and waited lying on the grass outside. Much to my delight, a fine specimen of a male Mallard waddled up and made my acquaintance, conducting a close inspection of rucksack and showing off his shimmery green head. We were disturbed, however, by a Dachshund rescue team on a charity walk. Mr Mallard was not a fan of the hordes of yappy dogs and fled to the undergrowth. I should’ve joined him.

After this , I followed the south shore of Loch Morlich, glimmering blue and dotted with canoes, before passing by Lochan nan Craobh Laoigh. Here the non-native trees have been felled making for an ugly, bare landscape. Don’t be disheartened: this was done deliberately to let the native trees re-populate the area.

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Diverting from the track that leads to Rothiemurchus lodge, I headed west to a grand junction of woodland trails, including that leading to the other side of the Lairig Ghru. Keep an eye out for Crested Tits, Red Squirrels and, if you're lucky, the elusive Scottish Crossbill. I got a fantastic look at a Great Spotted Woodpecker when I took a quick rest by the Allt Druidh.

You could head north here for a more direct route to the road, but I continued onward to the Cairngorm Club footbridge. Now finally turning north towards Coylumbridge, I tried to reduce the amount of time walking next to the road by picking up a track just north of Lower Tullochgrue - this doesn't exist, as far as I could tell, so I reversed and emerged from the woods at the campsite.

There followed a trudge along the B970, safe on the segregated cycle/walk way, finally crossing the River Spey and walking down into the welcoming arms of the Old Bridge inn. I’d made it to Aviemore! The first pint hit me rather hard.

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Variants: While I think Glen Tilt is a natural fit for the start of the walk, there are numerous alternatives that you might consider later on.

    1) At the ford of the Geldie Burn. Here you could swing to the west and approach the glorious Glen Feshie from the south. This would initially bring you to a remote part of the Cairngorms before reaching the woods and rivers of Rothiemurchus. This route misses much of the grandeur of the mountains in the centre of the Cairngorms.

    2) At White bridge you could head east to the Linn of Dee and perhaps rendezvous with friends and family (or get picked up by the owner of a local B&B…), before heading north to Derry Lodge and re-joining the route. This misses the views of the Devil’s point and the Lairig Ghru.

    3) Below the Devil’s Point you could walk north and head into the famous Lairig Ghru, again ending up in Rothiemurchus. This is a more direct route to Aviemore, and an option for those carrying injuries or unfortunate with the weather.

    4) Where my route leaves the Lairig an Laoigh, tired or time-pressured walkers might want to continue north, missing out Loch Etchachan & Loch Avon (and lots of ascent!), passing to the east of the distinctive Bynack More. This does mean taking on a potentially dangerous river crossing at the Fords of Avon.

    5) Make this a circular walk. Start at Aviemore and head into Glen Feshie before meeting this route at the Red House Bothy.

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Comments: 2



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Attachment(s) Date walked: 13/09/2020
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Ascent: 11000m
Comments: 6
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Activity: Mountaineer
Mountain: The Saddle
Place: North Uist
Gear: Gaiters

Munros: 282
Corbetts: 75
Fionas: 13
Donalds: 3
Wainwrights: 25
Hewitts: 22
Sub 2000: 5
Islands: 36
Long Distance routes: West Highland Way    Cape Wrath Trail   



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Statistics

2022

Trips: 1
Distance: 85 km
Ascent: 2100m

2020

Trips: 2
Distance: 380 km
Ascent: 11000m


Joined: Jun 21, 2012
Last visited: Feb 10, 2024
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