A glorious October Sunday and not another soul on the hill - because they were all on the neighbouring Munros - made the walk even more special. We shared it only with ptarmigan, rutting stags roaring in the corries and an eagle soaring majestically.
The stalking track up through the trees provides a pleasant and steady start, allowing height to be gained quickly, though it's worth stopping now and then for the stunning views of Liathach, Beinn Alligin and Beinn Eighe behind. The ground becomes much boggier as the stalking track deteriorates - especially after heavy rain. The views improve and become more expansive as height is gained to compensate for the rougher going underfoot.
It's easy to miss the rather indistinct path that heads to the right around the rocky top that confronts you after the initial steeper section up the ridge from the bealach. Going too high involves an awkward scramble over boulders.
The final ascent to the summit is exhilarating, though anyone who dislikes exposure might find the gaping corrie to the left rather intimidating. Care is also needed on the bouldery path surface not to turn an ankle.
The panorama stretching out from the summit, with Maol Chean Dearg prominent, is spectacular. Those who set their sights only on the Munros are missing a lot if they fail to ascend this fine hill, and there's the benefit of an award-winning pub and a meal after the day's exertions.