Day 1 - Thursday 1st June, 2017 (Milngavie – Sallochy Campsite)

Our Adventure Begins…….just follow the thistles

We meet early to make the walk to the train station to get the 07:46 train direct to Milngavie where the adventure begins in earnest.
Walking through Milngavie to the official start of the walk, we make the stop at Costa for a caffeine fix, and Greggs to stock-up on some lunch and nibbles.



Walking under the ‘WHW’ archway into a carpark isn’t the most exciting or encouraging ways to begin such an undertaking but with the help of one of the bag-drop drivers, we were pointed in the correct direction and moved off into Mugdock Park to start our trek.
The opening miles through Allander & Mugdock Parks are easy and pleasant on the eye, following Allander Water we quickly move from suburbia into the great outdoors & the greenery of Mugdock Wood.
We don’t make it far – maybe a mile or so – before the heat take hold and we need to stop (still in the park – at the top of the first wee hill) to remove the zip-off’s. Quick drink and bags back on, we wander past the picturesque Craigallian Loch, some new (and old) cabins and then Carbeth Loch before turning left onto the Ballachalairy Yett (B821) for the short walk to where the track restarts. Heading North for Drymen the scenery opens out properly now and we can see into the Queen Elizabeth Forrest and Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park beyond.
The path is really easy going and we are keeping good pace as we see Glengoyne Distillery ahead. As a visit would involve a bit of detour, we decide to give it a miss and keep on, saying hello to the Shetland ponies who greet us at The Beech Tree Inn. With a small nature garden on the side it looks like it could be a ‘family’ stop in the future, but we stop to read some of the signage (avoiding temptation of the ‘bar’ one) and cross the A81.
Weather had been great and the path had been flat so we remained in high spirits as we started to think about stopping for some food. Crossing the A81 again, we soon hit Gartness Road and follow the tarmac across the water (Endrick) to a small row of houses and our first ‘Honesty Box’ – ICE LOLLIES were the shout and we chucked in payment, said an anonymous “thankyou” and started up the hill until we found a wee makeshift bench to rest out legs on and get the Greggs out.



The rain had started to come down – very light – so we decided to get the jackets on at least. Cleared our mess and continued to follow the road for what seemed like miles until we reached the sign for Mulberry Lodge, and we joined the track again taking us through a wet and boggy sheep field, up a hill and out the other side on the Stirling Road (A811) at Drymen where we crossed and turned right along a narrow path.
The rain was coming down heavier now and we were beginning to look (and feel) like the sort of sorry walkers you seen when you are out in the car and it’s pee’ing with rain – I’ll never smirk at them in the same way again!
We left the A811 after a short distance and turned left back onto the route, up to the forestry road and through Garadhban Forest. We were getting really we by this point and the legs were tiring, so we stopped when we found some shelter under the pine trees for some juice and sweeties before soldiering on towards Conic Hill and Balmaha.
It was at this point that we had the option to take the ‘dog walking’ route around Conic, or batter on up Conic – we opted to go up the 558ft………we should have gone around!!
The going was tougher now and the path had changed to being stony. We were soaking (still hadn’t out on waterproof trousers – crazy!) and the climb was a lot steeper that we had envisaged it’d be. At our summit (there is an option to properly summit – we didn’t take it) the visibility was LOW and the wind was HIGH and the rain was WET, so we were glad to start the descent into Balmaha and were already taking about the Oak Tree Inn and what we would have for dinner. The climb down was pretty uncomfortable on tired legs, but as we came out of the cloud cover we were greeted with the sight of Loch Lomond in all its cloudy glory.



We marched straight through the Conic Hill carpark and into the Oak Tree, dumped the bags at the reception area and started the drying off process in the toilets – thankfully the toilets weren’t being used often so no one got to see pants, t-shirts & shorts being dried – not sure Dyson designed his driers to be used for this, but it worked pretty well and we managed to get seated in the bar not looking too shabby!!

1x Pizza, 1x Burger, 1x chips & 2x Guinness later we were loading up again and heading back into the rain to stop in the village shop for some sweets and a couple of cans (Innis & Gunn) for the campsite – just to help us get to sleep!
The 4.2mile walk was about 2-miles more than we thought it would be and with the steep, stepped climbs thrown in as well, by the time we reached Sallochy Campsite (passing
Milarrochy & Cashel in the process) we were far from cheery and just wanted to be under canvas and out the rain. Both Milarrochy & Cashel looked like decent wee campsite, probably with dry rooms and facilities (any facilities) so getting to Sallochy and checking in with the lady in the Portakabin wasn’t quite the welcome we needed at this point in our day.
(Sallochy would be amazing in the sunshine – it’s a bit grim in the rain, after Conic Hill & 23-miles).
We plodded back to the lochside pitches and got the tents up as quickly as possible in the rain, whilst being under (mild) midgey attack. Got the wet stuff laid out as best possible and joined ranks in the 3-man tent to enjoy the Innis & Gunn and some banter.

Day 1 – DONE - 23-miles


Day 2 - Friday 2nd June, 2017 (Sallochy Campsite – Beinglas Farm)

Dampness everywhere……….

Awoke at about 5AM to no rain  and some sunshine  so tried to get some more sleep before waking again about 6.30AM and getting organised in the tent before stepping out to check for midges. Out of the trees and down by the Lochside was best so we hung our wettest clothing out – Nairn’s on a clothes line that someone had kindly left, and mine on random tree branches.



Wandered up for some water and got the stoves out to trial properly for the 1st time. Delighted to see that they performed amazingly and we had boiling water for the porridge & coffee within 2-mins. Our first WHW breakfast was quite pleasant and we quickly cleared-up and stared decamp .
Shook off the tents as much as possible and rolled them into their bags before sorting out all of the other drybags and packing the rucksacks. Wasn’t much fun being had at this point!
Once sorted, filled-up with water and started off on day-2’s adventure. Didn’t have to go too far from the campsite to hit the 1st obstacle of the day – a 90m steep, stepped climb into the trees!! This was torture so early in the morning and we had to stop to catch out breaths a few times before making it to the top, and flatter ground. Just what we needed first thing!
Weather was great though and the path levelled out through Rowardennan Forest and past the University Field Station. We stopped at Rowardennan Hotel for some snack and to fill up with water again before moving on up the loch towards Inversnaid Hotel where had planned to stop to eat lunch.
This full day would prove to be slow going due to the terrain of tree roots, boulders, climbs and having to stop to allow mountain bikers to carry their bikes past! Bad enough walking some of this, never mind trying to get a bike over it! The sight of a Navy Hercules skimming the loch was impressive – went by too fast to get a photo though.
Passed the twiggy memorial for Bill Lobban and then over a bridge to find a small cottage with the best honesty box – all homemade treats and fresh fruit.

Just around Ptarmigan Lodge, we opted for the easier high route instead of following the “for the adventurous only” water’s edge trail, and stopped off at a nice lookout point with bench, to take in the surroundings. The rain threatened so jackets went on – 2-mins later, jackets were off. This would be the theme of the walk going forward – but we got better at the quick pit-stops – passing Tarbet and the Arrochar Alps (great view of The Cobbler) on the far side.



Off the forestry track the path returned to the roots and boulders but we made it to Inversnaid Hotel in the sunshine and we even managed a ‘taps’n’boots-aff’ lunch to allow the clothes and socks to dry out a bit more. Too many humans about for our liking, but sat here for a good 45-mins, filled bottles with water again and moved on. We opted not to walk off-trail to see Rob Roy’s Cave – how special can it be!? – as the terrain along the woodland trail remained tough and one stumble and scratched hand later we finally left the shores of Loch (should be renamed LONG) Lomond behind and stepped into the greenery opposite Ardlui. Scenery here was amazing and we climbed up away from the water, we got a 2nd ‘buzz’ of the day from a Navy/Coastguard Helibus as we passed Doune Bothy.
Up and over the hill with the last views of Loch Lomond behind us, the last 4-miles or so down into Glen Falloch were a struggle with rockier climbs and a final (sore) descent past the Drover’s Inn and into Beinglas Farm Campsite – a welcome sight. Kept an eye out for Rory, but alas he remained missing!

We had thought that we would try and ‘wild camp’ somewhere past Beinglas, but the soaking we received on day-1 made our minds-up that we needed some form of minor luxury – and a dry-room!
Glad we did, as the bar served ice cold Tennents and the kitchen kicked out huge portions of fish’n’chips – just what we needed. Tiredness prevailed though and we both left the live music of Kara & Chris to the other, and headed back to the soft glass pitches and the comfort of our tents & sleeping bags not much after 9PM. Took great joy in watching the Scouts try to get their tents pitched in the midges
Wee snifter of whisky from the hipflask and it was time for big ZZZZZZ’s

Day 2 – DONE - 18-miles 


Day 3 - Saturday 3rd June, 2017 (Beinglas Farm – Bridge of Orchy)

Village idiots & leaky bladders……….

Awoke early having not really heard the late-night live music and drunken camper being sick near our tents at whatever ungodly hour he eventually packed-in for the night. The campsite pitches were grassy, flat and soft which was a real pleasure compared to the stony Sallochy ones, but despite the dry(ish) night we awoke to tents that looked as if they had withstood a real downpour. Soaked inside and out, it wasn’t really much fun having to roll and bag them, knowing we had another ~20-miles ahead of us with heavy, wet tents!
We decanted our kit into the dry-room/kitchen and started taking down & shaking off the tents – bug nets on as the midges were still a bit of a pest!! Managed not too badly and made a dash for the dry-room to pack properly and make some porridge & coffee. Quick wash and a breakfast supplement of a can of Coca-Cola, and we were off just after 9AM to follow River Falloch into the forested area and towards our first real stop of the day, Tyndrum.

The going was ok underfoot and the scenery kept us going until the inhumanly short railway underpass (“sheep creep”) – def not for 5, never mind 6-footers! The clouds were coming in now and as we exited the underpass (much better height) beneath the A82 and up onto the 18th Century military road we decided to stop and get the jackets and trousers on – good decision.



It was at this point the 1st of our 2 water bladder issues were noticed. Bladder #1 had sprung a leak and was deposited in the farmer’s bin after it had been drained. Not what we had wanted, but as we had bladder #2 and some other smaller water bottles with us, we were not in any danger of death by dehydration!

Looking along the length of the old military road we could see – waaaaay in the distance – where we were heading. The next honesty box served us well, and we were as ‘honest’ as we could be…………honest!
For the next ~90-mins it was pretty miserable. The rain was incessant – although not too heavy – which probably made the route seem more unappealing that it actually was. We made it to the ‘end’ in decent time though and split left at Crianlarich Forest, to start the steep climb into the trees. A couple of girls coming the other way suggested we were still some 2.5hrs from Tyndrum, so smiled (grimaced) nicely and said “thanks”.
The sun came out soon after this turn in the path and we stopped to de-kit – quickly as the midges soon found us and started to take aim!
As we reached the top, and started the climb down the pain in my knees started to really get pretty bad, but with some funny walks and slower than planned progress we made it out the woods, under the railway arches and across the A82 (again). The land thankfully flattened as we crossed the water and came to St.Fillans Priory which would become our lunch stop for the day. Kicked the boots and socks off, got the stoves lit and settled down for a well-earned break of Adventure Meal Chicken Curry.



It was here that Bladder#2 decided to give up the ghost – with a bit of help from a sharp log! Lesson = don’t store the bladder on the outside of your bag, and put your bag down, on your bladder!! Oh well – we had enough water to make lunch and it was only about 25°C, so happy days!
Kitted back up and left the Priory behind, moving into fields full of calves & lambs and past Fillans Wigwams. This was a nice flat stretch of path and we again hit the A82, crossing and following the appealing looking waters of River Fillan. The scenery had changed to a forest of Scots Pine and stopped to read about the legend of Kettle Loch and Robert the Bruce’s dump of arms that (if you believe the story) still remain at the bottom of the loch.



The scenery continued to impress – until we hit the 150-year old site of the old lead crushing plant on which nothing has grown since. All very dry & barren.
We knew we were near Tyndrum now as we wandered along the river and past Pinetrees Caravan Park – maybe one to consider for suture family holidays?
We saw the town ahead and crossed the (now dry) waterway and up to the A82 just above The Green Welly Stop and a well-earned cappuccino stop. Popped into the outdoor shop to buy new water bladders - £27 for a Camelback – we didn’t buy new water bladders. So a 2L bottle of Highland Spring was the choice of replacement.
Decided to make a move as it looked like the clouds were coming into ruin the blue skies and sunshine, so started the climb out of Tyndrum past the village hall and alongside the A82 (getting bored of this road now!) and railway until we left the main path and off onto the hillside, climbing quite steeply until we dropped down to the railway underpass and the path towards the impressive Beinn Dorain. Jackets and trousers were on and off, and on and off about 4-times on this stretch until we eventually crossed a wee bridge at the foot of the mountain and decided that we had to strip off for definite for the last push into Bridge of Orchy.



The path followed the river past some wild campers and then back across the railway for a few long miles until we saw the whites of the Bridge of Orchy railway station and Hotel – a very welcome sight at the end of another long day. As usual the rain came on for the last 300-metres or so, so on went the waterproofs again!!

Knees were sore again as we stepped down into the station, under the tracks and down to the Hotel (on the A82!). We were greeted by a gentleman (village idiot – more later) on the old bridge as we approached camp for the night – we would be beside the 3 or 4 other tents in the unofficial wild camping ‘field’ on the other side of the water – very picturesque, if a little unflat and wet! Midges were on form so it was a quick pitch, bags opened out, and a march back up to the hotel for dinner and the Champions League final (Madrid v Juve) on BTSport.
Hotel was really nice, and we got a prime table – at the bar and right in front of the TV. Ordered food quickly (but after the beer) and settled in for the game………and a few more pints!
We also decided to phone ahead to Kinlochleven to book a campsite as the thought of wild-camping with wet kit wasn’t really doing it for us. Phone call made, payment accepted, booking done! 

Day 3 – DONE - 19-miles


Day 4 - Sunday 4th June, 2017 (Bridge of Orchy - Kinlochleven)

Now this is just getting sore……….

Despite a good night watching the footie over a few beers, we awoke to **** rain and clouds of midges outside! We lay in out tents packing our bags & listening to the rain, waiting for the first break in weather and then went for it – midge nets on, bags out, tents down and ‘dried’ and then back up to the hotel to sort everything out properly.

Hadn’t had a chance to get the stoves out so we ‘had to’ opt for roll’n’bacon & filtered coffee as a poor alternative to our usual oats’n’coffe sachets!! It was tough!
The hotel was quiet that this hour and they were kind enough to let us take over a small corner to get packed-up properly and prepare for the day ahead. It was at this point that I noticed that my binoculars were about and I unpacked again to check I hadn’t stashed them somewhere safe……. but I knew I hadn’t! Pretty sure I left them laying out in the tent – who’s the ‘village idiot’ now????
Got the bags back on, and moved off (slightly miffed about the bin’s) across the River Orchy for one last time and to check the campsite (and the ‘idiot’s’ car (!) and then off up the hill – there was always a hill after a stop or night camping – into the trees and over towards Glen Orchy and the Black Mount. It was warm today, so we started off in shorts & tee’s making it up the cairn at the top where we have amazing views down to the Inveroran Hotel, over Loch Tulla towards Rannoch Moor and beyond – quite a sight in all directions.



This entire stretch of path was over stony, heavily gravelled, rocky ground and it was starting to smart a bit, feeling every rock under foot and every jolt on the knees as we walked downhill.

Wandered down past the Hotel and some small houses (wondering how anyone can live out here) and then behind the Black Mount Estate – home of the late Ian 007 Fleming) – up through the woods where the scenery started to open out as we started the long walk through the Rannoch Moor and over Ba Bridge. This was a nice section of the Way and the weather remained warm (if a bit moist with the occasional spells of sunburn) so we battered on, climbing up and over the last hill where we were met with our first proper view into Rannoch Moor, Beinn A Chrulaiste and the ever impressive Glen Coe.

The walk down into the Glen took us past the famous Blackrock Cottage with Buachaille Etive Mor in the background – well worth a few photos – and we could finally see Kingshouse Hotel in the distance. Turned out to be further in the distance that we thought, but as we’d planned an Adventure Food lunch we didn’t mind the last slog………….and then the rain came down…. HARD!



No dry-rooms available so we ‘had to’ opt for the café and a coffee and steak panini instead – we enjoyed the break inside, and getting the boots off for a while as well.
Nicely rested and refuelled, we filled our Highland Spring with real highland spring (from a tap) and walked passed the hotel – looking bit tired now – to spot our first deer of the walk. Not 1005 sure how ‘wild’ it was, but we counted it as #1 and doubled back behind the hotel to cross the small bridge onto the old military road and through the Pass of Glencoe – a really amazing experience. The path was nice and flat – which did not prepare us for the what lay ahead! The Devil’s Staircase – the highest point on the route!

The guidebooks had suggested that this shouldn’t be feared and that the climb did not live up to its name – but it does. After the long trek in, and the days of punishment before this was a real struggle and a slow section as we neared the top. Once guy we saw at bottom (as we were half way up) passed us at pace, with a smile on his face, taking the direct route up instead of the zig-zags!! And this was after 2-pints that we’d seen him devour in the Blackhouse!



Anyway, we caught him up at the top and stopped to admire the view north towards the Mamores, Ben Nevis and Fort William – not that we could see Fort William, but we knew it was over there somewhere! Home!

The next stretch into Kinlochleven was a very long one. Pretty much all downhill, on the stony stuff and never ending! We could see where we wanted to be, but just could seem to get there!
Deer #2 was spotted (100% wild this time) but our feet (his) were done and our knees (mine) needed a rest – only “500m” to go said the sign – couldn’t come quick enough!
Kinlochleven doesn’t look like much and the pipeline and Aluminium Works isn’t the prettiest welcome, but it was home for the night and we were glad to be here.

McDonald Hotel & Cabins was the chosen destination and a nice wee site it was too. None of the cabins were available, and only had space for about 11x 2-man tents but as we were there before many others we had a good choice of spots to set-up in. Midges were also few and far between which was amazing, so set-up was relatively pleasant and weather was braw so we could get aired and dried in the sunshine for change.

We got the stoves out and split 3x Adventure Food Spag Bol’s between us – very tasty and set-us up nicely for a pint and a chill-out at the bar. 2x pints of River Leven Pilsner (tasty) and a dram before bed. Happy days.

Day 4 – DONE - 21-miles


Day 5 - Monday 5th June, 2017 (Kinlochleven – Fort William)

The last 16-miles can’t be that bad……….can they???

Another day, another climb!
Got a great night’s sleep on the flat pitches and awoke in good spirits – despite the noise of the rain battering down!
Body was feeling pretty stiff but managed to get the bags packed-up quickly in the tent and get the stove on for breakfast. Decided to brave it (village idiot) and do this in the tent due to the rain, and all-in-all it was a success – no spillages or tents burning down = success.
Used one of the cabin porches as shelter for the bags and got the tents shaken off and rolled-up not too badly. Washed-up, re-packed bags & filled bottles and headed off for the last day of the walk and the VERY steep climb up to the top of the hill above Kinlochleven!! Another day – another climb! The lower section of the climb was wooded and we quickly stopped to strip down to tee’s and for an early juice intake! Spirits were still high and we made it up to the forestry road which would lead us through glen all the way to Glen Nevis Forrest.



We had great early views over Loch Leven & the Pap of Glen Coe, but the road was more of the same gravelly stony kind so we took our time and enjoyed the scenery and run-in to the end.
There wasn’t much to this section other than long monotonous stretches of track, hills either side with very few significant points of interest and (the usual) lack of any real wildlife to note. Still we enjoyed the peace and quiet of the countryside and the ruins of Tigh Na Sleubhaich, but the clouds were looming behind us and we continued on passing (long) periods of time by trying to guesstimate the distance and travel time between us and the furthest point of on the road – Nairn won!



Eventually the track turned around the hillside (Meall a’ Chaorainn) and we stopped under some boulders to shelter from the wind and take on some juice and Haribo. From here on we were in and out of forest & wooded areas – or they would have been if they hadn’t been heavily felled!
This would begin our long run down into Fort William and the path continued to be unforgiving with lots of stones, boulders & streams to manage never minds the occasional steep assent. The small bright yellow storm shelter caught our eye and we were delighted to find, considering the remoteness of it, a well-stocked honesty box with cans of pop, crisps, protein bars & Lucozade tabs. Thanks whoever you are!

Small info board told us we were 7.5 miles from the end and we walked up over the hill and into Glen Nevis Forest proper, which we would stay in until the end. THE END  - sounded good!
Here we got our first proper sight of Ben Nevis – capped in cloud – and it brought back good memories of the 3-Peaks challenge we had started here a few years ago. She looked a lot bigger than I remember and I was glad that I wasn’t starting that climb again today.

Found a real nice spot for lunch, beside a steam and under a pine tree. Got the stove out and cooked-up our last bag of Chicken Curry & Carbonara (pasta options were def better). Some walkers passed us as we cooked-up and ate, but as had been the case for most of the walk, it felt that we largely had the route to ourselves which was great.
It was nice to get a warm meal in us, but as we were walking about eating it to try and keep the midges off us (wasn’t too bad, but it was lunchtime for goodness sake!!), we wrapped up quickly and moved on again.
Much of the forest that we were to walk through had been devastated by some form of fungus/bug so the authorities had started the process of stripping the land – we assume to regrow, but this hadn’t started yet – which made the landscape appear very sorry for itself.
There was one final steep climb up to the log trucking road and we stopped at the top for some juice and to regroup before the long, sometimes steep descent to the finish line. Much like the finish to day-4, this final stretch seemed to go on and on, but we knew we were near the end now so we trundled & stumbled on; bodies, legs and minds getting wearier with every step.

A couple of logging truck swept by us – a bit close and quickly – on the way down and we finally hit tarmac on a small B-road, just past the Ben Nevis Hostel. We trudged along the pavement past a small cemetery and decided to take the scenic (and hilly) route into the Braveheart carpark and up over Cowhill. This turned out to be a bad choice (especially for my knees that had decided they’d had enough) as the walk down into town was pretty steep in places, but it eventually brought us out directly behind the ‘finish line’ and the David A Annand ‘sore feet‘ sculpture - the honorary Chief of the West Highland Way Clan. We took rest beside our new best friend, got some random to take a snap before heading directly to the nearest pharmacy to replenish the stock of Compede and medical tape – two of the four feet would need some TLC!!



Managed to force down a couple of beers in a bar on the precinct – no idea which pub as it was all a bit of a haze by this point – and decided to grab a taxi for the journey to the hotel – we’d walked more than enough to consider taking on the last 1.4-miles!
We landed at the welcoming (!) Ben Nevis Hotel & Leisure Club (the hotel that time forgot), dumped our bags, ran a cold batch to dip the feet into and had possibly the best shower ever!



The hotel wasn’t really doing it for us and the thought of sitting down to dinner as “a lady with an electric keyboard” serenaded us was just too much. Taxi back into town, curry at Spice Tandoori, a few beers and we were spent – ready for the train journey back to Glasgow and to see the families.

Amazingly great experience – not to be repeated………well certainly not for a long time, and definitely not with the bags on our backs.

Day 5 – DONE - 16-miles

West Highland Way – DONE - 97-miles