Braeriach in Winter Birthday Wrapping
Munros: Braeriach
Date walked: 08/03/2023
Time taken: 13 hours
Distance: 21km
Ascent: 1097m
Before our week long stay in the Cairngorm National Park the forecast for the entire week was pretty miserable, our hopes clung to the tiny chance that there might be one day where the clouds parted, the sun shone and we could once again revel in the majesty that is the Cairngorm hills in winter. This time last year we had an incredible walk up Ben Macdui under a bluebird sky, hard snow conditions underfoot and without a breath of wind, so it was a big ask to ask for the same again.
So picture our excitement when upon arrival the forecast midweek had changed to such another day, cloudless, sun out, barely a breeze. We had to take our chance. The previous couple of days had dumped fresh snow so we decided to keep off any South/Southeastern aspects as per SAIS and decided to walk up Braeriach from the Sugarbowl carpark, via the Chalamain Gap.
The car told us it was -10degC when we set off from the Sugarbowl at 5:30am and it never got warmer for the rest of the day. It was a cloudless morning and the moon was like a second sun in the sky, illuminating the freshly fallen snow on the lower slopes of the Northern Corries. It was dreamlike.
Due to tracks from previous excursions in the snow we made good progress to the Chalamain Gap, the morning taking on a pink/purple hue. The tracks stopped at the Gap, so we slowly and tentatively made our way through, and then vowed on the return to take the high line above the gap on Creag a' Chalamain to save time.
We exited the Gap to an astonishing view across to Sgor Gaoith, dazzling in the early morning sun. No tracks were ahead of us, from this point on we would have to make our own up to the summit of Braeriach. It was totally silent, no breeze, no birdcalls, nothing. We spotted a few hares about their morning business, they had already shed their white winter garb. Thankfully the path down to the Lairig was just visible, the fresh snow soft enough to plough our way with ease. It was about shin/knee deep and never got any shallower. Soon it was time to make the effort up Sron na Lairige and I will say we were not expecting the climb to be as exhausting as it was. It felt like the slope inclined forever. Every step was knee deep, sometimes deeper, sometimes shallower due to a rock underneath. We stopped many times to admire the view but also get our breath back...how we wished we were a tad fitter!
Hours later we had reached a smallish bealach at 1200m with a breathtaking view of Cairn Toul and all the plateau along into Braeriach's huge southern coires. The type of vantage point where one gets vertigo. Our hard work had paid off!
A further effort to reach the summit was made, the snow here was deeper still, beyond the knees nearly every step of the way...but such a fine day makes one almost forget the complaints by the leg muscles! A trio on snow-shoes finally caught up to us just before the summit...how jealous that made us. They were continuing along the ridge to Devil's Point with an aim to stay at Corrour. We wished them well as they set off from the summit. At the top it was truly breathtaking. The slice of birthday cake I had on the hoar frosted summit cairn was probably the best piece of cake I had ever eaten.
It had taken us 8 hours to reach the top, 10km from where we had left the car. We felt like a couple of sloths, but to spend as much time out in this weather, in this country and on these hills was a blessing. It was about -15degC and passing breezes made it a bit too uncomfortable to hang around much longer. Conscious of getting home at a good time we set off back down, following the footsteps we made all the way back to the Chalamain Gap.
We bypassed the Gap by getting up on to and following its Northern edge which saved a lot of time. A late lunch of sandwiches and crisps was enjoyed with views back to Braeriach and on across Loch Morlich and Glenmore forest.
During the last stage, across the lower slopes we were treated to a wonderful sunset. The setting sun cast the snow encrusted corries in a light pink which contrasted the clear ice blue sky.
We reached our car at 18:30pm, pretty much bang on 13 hours since we left it, so 5 hours for the return leg. A quick drive back to our cosy cabin with a big plate of pasta awaiting us, plus some birthday chocolates. Best birthday ever.
So picture our excitement when upon arrival the forecast midweek had changed to such another day, cloudless, sun out, barely a breeze. We had to take our chance. The previous couple of days had dumped fresh snow so we decided to keep off any South/Southeastern aspects as per SAIS and decided to walk up Braeriach from the Sugarbowl carpark, via the Chalamain Gap.
The car told us it was -10degC when we set off from the Sugarbowl at 5:30am and it never got warmer for the rest of the day. It was a cloudless morning and the moon was like a second sun in the sky, illuminating the freshly fallen snow on the lower slopes of the Northern Corries. It was dreamlike.
Due to tracks from previous excursions in the snow we made good progress to the Chalamain Gap, the morning taking on a pink/purple hue. The tracks stopped at the Gap, so we slowly and tentatively made our way through, and then vowed on the return to take the high line above the gap on Creag a' Chalamain to save time.
We exited the Gap to an astonishing view across to Sgor Gaoith, dazzling in the early morning sun. No tracks were ahead of us, from this point on we would have to make our own up to the summit of Braeriach. It was totally silent, no breeze, no birdcalls, nothing. We spotted a few hares about their morning business, they had already shed their white winter garb. Thankfully the path down to the Lairig was just visible, the fresh snow soft enough to plough our way with ease. It was about shin/knee deep and never got any shallower. Soon it was time to make the effort up Sron na Lairige and I will say we were not expecting the climb to be as exhausting as it was. It felt like the slope inclined forever. Every step was knee deep, sometimes deeper, sometimes shallower due to a rock underneath. We stopped many times to admire the view but also get our breath back...how we wished we were a tad fitter!
Hours later we had reached a smallish bealach at 1200m with a breathtaking view of Cairn Toul and all the plateau along into Braeriach's huge southern coires. The type of vantage point where one gets vertigo. Our hard work had paid off!
A further effort to reach the summit was made, the snow here was deeper still, beyond the knees nearly every step of the way...but such a fine day makes one almost forget the complaints by the leg muscles! A trio on snow-shoes finally caught up to us just before the summit...how jealous that made us. They were continuing along the ridge to Devil's Point with an aim to stay at Corrour. We wished them well as they set off from the summit. At the top it was truly breathtaking. The slice of birthday cake I had on the hoar frosted summit cairn was probably the best piece of cake I had ever eaten.
It had taken us 8 hours to reach the top, 10km from where we had left the car. We felt like a couple of sloths, but to spend as much time out in this weather, in this country and on these hills was a blessing. It was about -15degC and passing breezes made it a bit too uncomfortable to hang around much longer. Conscious of getting home at a good time we set off back down, following the footsteps we made all the way back to the Chalamain Gap.
We bypassed the Gap by getting up on to and following its Northern edge which saved a lot of time. A late lunch of sandwiches and crisps was enjoyed with views back to Braeriach and on across Loch Morlich and Glenmore forest.
During the last stage, across the lower slopes we were treated to a wonderful sunset. The setting sun cast the snow encrusted corries in a light pink which contrasted the clear ice blue sky.
We reached our car at 18:30pm, pretty much bang on 13 hours since we left it, so 5 hours for the return leg. A quick drive back to our cosy cabin with a big plate of pasta awaiting us, plus some birthday chocolates. Best birthday ever.
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iain_mac
- Activity: Mountain Walker
- Place: Wester Ross
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- Distance: 21 km
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