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Meall a’ Bhuiridh – Uncomfortably Numb

Munros: Meall a' Bhùiridh

Date walked: 20/01/2023

Time taken: 6 hours

Distance: 8km

Ascent: 760m

I’ve had no luck on the hills in regards to winter walking in recent years. An attempted ascent of Beinn an Dothaid with Glasgow HF Outdoor Club saw me limping off the hill when the sole of my boot decided to part company with the upper. I then spent a period searching for new boots and finally settled on the Scarpa Manta Pro, only to find that unlike all of my other Scarpa footwear, they didn’t like my feet. Covid then interrupted things, and since then my chances for winter walking were a mix of blisters and disappointment. As 2023 started I was hopeful that I could get out again, having had a fairly decent finish to 2022. The key to winter hill climbing, to me anyway, is to have had a good summer season to build up the strength for sustained effort on long days with heavy gear. Winter gear is heavy enough, but I do insist on throwing in a shed-load of camera gear. Getting to the top is great, but I can spend just as much time playing with the camera (and now the drone) if the weather and light is right. Often as not the big camera and drone can be dead weight.

The day prior to a walk is often spent prepping gear. With this being my first winter walk for a while I had to rearrange gear, swapping over to a larger rucksack for extra capacity, throwing in extra layers and a survival bag, as well as goggles, crampons and ice-axe. My googles had been in storage for so long that the foam had started to perish – an excuse to upgrade I suppose. Some of my winter gear has served me well for many years and is still in great condition. I reckon that my Gore-Tex mitts must be in the 30 year old bracket by now, bought from the long defunct Survival Aids shop in Glasgow when I was still in the TA. The other task that requires carrying out is the “great charge” where a variety of batteries are placed on chargers around the house – camera, GPS, head-torch, drone, drone-controller, phone, watch… With electricity prices as they are, it’s a dear day out!

I had a poor sleep and could easily have turned off my alarm at 0430hrs, but instead I dragged myself up, made up a drink and got my gear into the car. The temperature was around -4°C, so after clearing the windows I was off, driving north through the darkness. A brief stop off in a lay-by saw me stargazing, watching shooting stars flash overhead. The road conditions were good, despite the temperature, and I was soon ticking off Callander, Strathyre, Crianlarich and Tyndrum in the darkness. There are now average speed cameras between Lix-Toll and Tyndrum, but in these conditions there’s little chance of annoying them.

While stopped at road works just beyond Tyndrum I could see the faint light of the head torch of a solo walker making their way south along the West Highland Way. from the warmth of my car I mentally saluted them. The first hint of dawn was creeping in as I passed Achallader and turned up towards Glencoe, and I was soon parked up in the ski-centre car park, where I began the first stage of the days proceedings – taping up my feet! Compeed on each heel, a padded adhesive dressing and then a layer of tape. With a little luck this would see me out for the day. After a quick trip to the toilets I was off, passing the mustering line of ski-suited people waiting to book themselves onto the ski-lift. The path heads up from the car park towards a few buildings where it turns up onto the hill, by and large following the line of the ski-lift. I passed over a bike track which led down to a ramp and jump which had me sweating just looking at it, vowing never to try that; I’m no Danny MacAskill and have no ambition to be either. I picked my way up the path and it was hard going, trying to find footholds in the snow covered rubble which masqueraded as a path. A light crust of snow hid the ice underneath, and I was still in shouting distance of the car park when I took a slip and fell awkwardly, sliding back down for a few feet before coming to a stop. I’d hurt my elbow and my butt-cheek, which caused me a bit of pain throughout the walk and for days afterwards. I’d been considering putting on the Yaktrax and this fall made my mind up. I sat in the snow, puffing as I contorted myself to pull the rubber over my boots, glad that my fall had not been witnessed by the skiers, who had yet to begin ascending.
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The forecast had been for cloud in Glencoe, but the skies were now blue and clear and I had fantastic visibility. Rannoch Moor was stunning and every mountain top was covered in dazzling snow. I made my way slowly upwards until I reached the chairlift station, where the path veers across to the west over the back of Creag Dubh, before crossing to that far side of the ridge which leads directly up to the summit of Meall a’ Bhùiridh . Technically there’s nothing difficult about this, but I did find my energy being sapped as I ascended the mountain, staying to the west of the ski-run boundary markers. I had a slight rubbing on my left heel, but this was manageable. What was becoming concerning was the complete loss of sensation in my left big toe. For some time I’ve had a loss of sensation in my two smaller toes, apparently a nerve issue. I decided to get to the top and make the call as to whether to carry on from there or return to the ski centre.

I summited the mountain and my breath was taken away – as Loch Tulla and the Orchy Munros suddenly came into view. It’s a straight 500m drop down to the valley floor, which only accentuates the view. Standing astride the rather tiny cairn were a pair of skiers, one of whom was downing a can of beer. Not the usual summit behaviour, but then with a ski-lift barely 200m away, this isn’t your usual Munro summit…
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I took some time to check out my feet. My big toe felt like wood, devoid of sensation. I slipped a pocket hand warmer into my sock and pushed it under my toe as best I could. Hopefully it would activate and bring it back to life. Looking across to Creise I estimated that it would take me around another two to three hours to do the there and back journey, as I wasn’t overly fast. Even at two hours, that would see me descending the path to the car park in the dark. Normally I wouldn’t mind, but that path was a broken ankle waiting to happen. A leisurely return it was then. I changed the Yaktrax for crampons and after capturing some drone footage I began the descent. It was an enjoyable, if knee jarring experience in the hard snow, as I occasionally found my foot disappearing into a soft patch. After around five and a half hours I was back in the car park. As I made my way to my car I noticed a familiar face, but as often happens, when seeing someone in a strange location I get that “is that so and so” feeling. I later found it was indeed Andrew Park, whose Youtube videos are very entertaining. He and a few others were heading up for what turned out to be an eventful overnight camp on Creag Dubh. He’s a hardy soul is Andrew!
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Having not visited Glencoe for a while, and now with time to spare I took a wee tour around, visiting the now revamped Kingshouse Hotel, before stopping off at Lochan na h-achlaise to take in the view back across to Meall a’ Bhùiridh. Having already did that, would it be cheating if I took the ski-lift back up to the summit to continue the rest of my planned walk to Creise? I don’t think so…
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Creaise and Meall a Bhuiridh from Lochan na h-achlaise

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Postscript:

A few days later I was looking at my photos from the walk. When I had arrived in the car park at Glencoe I had spotted the lights from some head torches making their way up near the foot of Buchaille Etive Mor, so as I crossed the back of Creag Dubh, so I took a few random close ups of the face, just on the off chance of spotting someone. Sure enough, I could make out their trails of ascent and the climbers of themselves near the summit cairn. Not bad from around 2km I thought. I also took some pictures of the panorama to the north, and a close up of Ben Nevis. On zooming in to see if I could see the summit shelter I noticed a light coloured line leading up from the Carn Mor Dearg Arete, and at the head of the trail a tiny black speck (circled in blue above). Could this be a climber? Checking the map I measured the distance at around 22km (13.6 miles). That’s like me spotting someone in Glasgow from Airdrie. I put the post on a Scottish Mountaineering and Hillwalking page on Facebook and received a number of responses. One in particular from a guy called Paul asked me for the time of the picture and I established from the file that it had been taken at 1013. Paul then confirmed that this was him, and posted a picture he had taken shortly before that, looking back down the mountain. It turns out he had been on the hill since 0430hrs, climbing Carn Mor Dearg, then carrying on to Ben Nevis via the Arete. You can read his trip report and see his stunning photos on Walk Highlands https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=116426

You can see my video of the walk here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v87ODewQHQ

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Comments: 1



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jester


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Location: An t-Àrd Ruigh
Activity: Mountain Walker
Member: MCofS Glasgow HF Outdoor Club

Munros: 128
Corbetts: 13
Fionas: 7
Donalds: 3
Sub 2000: 9



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Statistics

2023

Trips: 1
Distance: 8 km
Ascent: 760m
Munros: 1

2022

Trips: 3
Distance: 62.9 km
Ascent: 3311m
Munros: 7

2021

Trips: 1
Distance: 32 km

2020

Trips: 2
Distance: 29 km
Ascent: 2143m
Munros: 2

2018

Trips: 2
Distance: 50.6 km
Ascent: 2290m
Munros: 4
Sub2000s: 1

2017

Trips: 1
Distance: 4.5 km
Ascent: 302m

2016

Trips: 2
Distance: 22.6 km
Ascent: 1162m
Corbetts: 1
Sub2000s: 1

2015

Trips: 3
Distance: 26 km
Ascent: 1200m
Hewitts: 1

2014

Trips: 2
Distance: 76.7 km
Ascent: 3072m
Munros: 4

2013

Trips: 10
Distance: 170.8 km
Ascent: 6287m
Munros: 3
Corbetts: 2
Fionas: 1

2012

Trips: 14
Distance: 180.3 km
Ascent: 7498m
Munros: 14
Corbetts: 1
Fionas: 3
Donalds: 2

2011

Trips: 17
Distance: 253.35 km
Ascent: 7880m
Munros: 32
Corbetts: 3
Fionas: 1
Donalds: 1
Sub2000s: 1

2009

Trips: 2
Munros: 1
Fionas: 1
Donalds: 1


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Last visited: Jun 29, 2023
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