Corbetts: Beinn Leoìd
Fionas: Meallan a' Chuail
Date walked: 09/08/2023
I make no apologies for giving my very limited Gaelic an airing courtesy of Duolingo, an embarrassment free way of learning as no-one has to hear my mangled pronunciation of this lyrical language. My English pronunciation of Beinn Leoid generated a joke from David Allison, the very helpful head stalker on the Reay Estate who I consulted before setting out. I’m afraid it wasn’t until later I realised I had missed his reference and then I had a laugh. Contact details for the Reay Estate are on the "Heading for the Scottish Hills" site. https://www.outdooraccess-scotland.scot/doc/heading-scottish-hills-stalking-tables-northern-highlands-area-2
The omens weren’t good. I drank my morning coffee, still half asleep as I had booked to go by train to Inverness rather than the bus which meant I could have a later than usual start. I was rudely woken by the traffic news which told of the closure of the Aberdeen–Inverness rail line with replacement buses operating. All due to a car crashing onto the line overnight. The resultant delays meant I arrived in Inverness after 4 pm, sometime after the last bus had departed for Ullapool and with it my chance of reaching Inchnadamph that night. I was directed to the duty manager. Once I explained my problem she, with very little fuss, arranged for a taxi to take me from Inverness to Inchnadamph. Cost to Scotrail (and the tax payer) £175 but possibly cheaper than providing me with accommodation and food for the night. The taxi came promptly and the 2 hr journey passed pleasantly with the Spanish born driver, an easy conversationalist who likes bothying around the Cairngorms.
NB the 22 yr.old driver who was driving the car that ended on its roof next to the railway line was taken to hospital “as a precaution” and was also charged in relation to the crash. Fortunately, no-one appears to have been hurt although some of my fellow passengers may have altered that if they met said driver.
On the path up I met one person descending from Conival who spoke of slippery rocks and blustery wind but the path was dry enough although suffering from footfall with some parts needing TLC to improve drainage and reduce erosion. I stopped for the night before the path up steepened too much. The breeze put paid to any interference by a’ mheanbh-chuileag one of the words I have learnt on Gaelic duolingo and one I think I may use more than the phrase chan eil drathais orm.
First night camp spot with view to Loch Mhaolach-coire by Seal54, on Flickr
Dreaming of dogs barking I woke to deer barking right next to the tent. They gradually moved away and that was the last contact I had with deer over the next few days. There was a dearth of a sustained breeze so not wanting to become breakfast for a’ mheanbh-chuileag, I packed up and put off breakfast and coffee until I reached the ridge. Said breakfast became quite an extended affair as low cloud was lingering around the summit but showing signs of shifting. There was shelter for my burner amongst the rocks but plenty of cool breeze to see off the midge. The cold meant I ended up wearing all my layers, including waterproof trousers, to keep me comfy whilst I waited for the clouds to lift a bit.
It was good to leave my bag as I climbed up to the summit of Conival, noting again how the path has deteriorated since my last ascent sometime in the noughties. As I climbed the cloud lifted off the tops. This is my 3rd visit, my first in poor weather, the 2nd excellent; this time I am missing out Ben More Assynt as it is not on the Watershed and I am slow enough without adding any more extras. I popped over to look down the SE ridge a few metres away from the cairn. It was so vertical I could only see the top 10 metres or so and I was very relieved that I felt no guilt in missing this section of the Shed.
Summit of Conival looking down on Breabag, with the knobbly spine of the Watershed clearly visible by Seal54, on Flickr
Quinag from summit of Conival, Loch Assynt down to the left by Seal54, on Flickr
Pano from Conival summit by Seal54, on Flickr
Top of the SE ridge of Conival by Seal54, on Flickr
Summit cairn Conival by Seal54, on Flickr
A fast, young walker had overtaken me on the ascent (he last climbed Conival when he was 12, 25 years ago if I remember correctly but maybe slightly wrong) another arrived at the summit just as I was leaving. I passed 6 more walkers ascending as I returned to my bag, my last human contact for 3 days. The onward route for the next couple of miles was very straightforward. In clear visibility the terrain looks as if someone has taken a large broom and swept up piles of rocks, some big, some medium sized and some small with easy paving slab walking interspersed with rough ankle wrenching rocks or easier gravelly sections.
The sweeping lines of Conival and way of the Watershed ahead by Seal54, on Flickr
The cool breeze whipping across the unnamed lochan that discharges down into Coire a’ Mhadaidh and eventually to the Dornoch Firth via Glen Cassley meant I wasn’t tempted in for a dip. Besides I hadn’t gone a mile on the Watershed and I was already halfway through the day. Even for me that is poor progress indeed. I pressed on, there would other opportunities as the day improved. Two golden plovers mourned overhead and later frogs leapt out of my way.
Unamed loch by Seal54, on Flickr
My next objective was Mullach an Laithaid Rhiabhaich, a bump on the long ridge that extends down from Ghlas Bheinn. It had seemed impossibly far off from the summit of Conival but after stopping for lunch above Loch Bealach Mhadhaidh the last mile passed quickly enough although my hip was complaining.
Looking to Ghlas Bheinn and Quinaig by Seal54, on Flickr
Looking to Loch Assynt with Ghlas Bheinn in front of Quinag by Seal54, on Flickr
I was pleased with my improved progress and was confident of catching up on the lost time of yesterday. I had forgotten that the cardinal rule learnt early on this journey is never count your Watershed miles before they are done. I think worry about the descent occupied my thoughts and I failed to take a photo from Mullach an Laithaid Rhiabhaich. Rather than head straight (is it ever straight) down the Watershed route which looked steep and craggy, I chose to go down the narrow ridge named Leathad Rhiabhach. Once again I struggled with fear on the steep downward journey. This still required some picking of route through steep sections it was more mentally exhausting and longwinded than ascending. Let me be clear, I am of an age that I do not fear death, life is terminal after all but I do fear the process and the pain of it before oblivion. Also I don’t want my nearest and dearest to be put through the trauma of not knowing what had happened to me if I did have a fall.
The way I came down ''almost" by Seal54, on Flickr
I was glad to reach the stalkers path in the tight narrow glen that would take me back ½ mile to the Watershed. If the fancy took me I could head North west along the path then take a turn off to the top of the Eas a’ Chual Aluinn, Britain’s highest waterfall but although it looked an interesting route with the steep sides of the glen rising to the Stack of Glencoul, today it wasn’t my fancy. The descent from Mullach an Laithaid had taken its time and toll on my endurance and hip so I decided to camp above one of a series of lochans just short of the Watershed. So much for making up lost ground. Bha mi cho sgith ri seann chù.
It was time to try out the tasty sounding Sainsbury’s lemon and coriander couscous, a departure from my own tried and trusted couscous mix. Previously the only failure on the wild camp cuisine front had been a packet of instant macaroni cheese. The lemon and coriander was indeed quick to cook but equally quick to be dumped into a double layer of plastic bags and consigned to the bottom of the rucksack. Would I remember it when I got home? Actually how could I forget its tasteless, yuckiness. Oatcakes, cheese and cucumber saved me from hunger pangs, rounded off with a snicker bar for pudding.
Morning was broken with low cloud and midges, a theme that was beginning to repeat on this outing. I’ve been using my Vaude pitch-in-one tent since losing my poles to my more conventional Terra Nova tent with separate flysheet. The Vaude is great for pitching in the pouring rain but not so good for packing away wet on a multiday trip and an teanta cho fluich ri sgarbh. I love some of the Gaelic similes but I have yet to see sgarbh (a cormorant) on the Watershed.
camp 2 on watershed Gorm Loch Mor in distance by Seal54, on Flickr
Still if the weather forecast held good this was to be the best day and it was to be breezy so I hoped to have a chance to dry the tent off later. Again I postponed breakfast until I reached a better place, hopefully not too far off. In theory navigation in poor visibility is fairly straightforward on the ‘Shed; keep the Atlantic waters on the left and the North Sea on the right. However, the knobbly ridge I was heading up could give Knoydart a run for its money so I needed to navigate with care as both waters were more or less heading south either side of the ridge but not visible for any distance. I had left the very, stony terrain back on Mullach an Leathaid Riabhaich, now there were green (brown) patches amongst the rocks but the vegetation was mainly short especially as I climbed higher. Still I had to watch out for potential ankle turinng loose rocks.
At one point the tip of my walking pole almost speared a sluggish lizard who had ventured out, clearly expecting sunshine rather than the damp (but warm) cloud. This made a change from the frogs who were leaping, kamikaze style, out of my way. I felt as sluggish as the lizard and as a breeze put paid to the midge took a good hour over breakfast. There were threats that I was in an inversion but the temperature had been really quite warm overnight.
Clearing by Seal54, on Flickr
Looking South to Gorm Loch Mor by Seal54, on Flickr
A misty Loch by Seal54, on Flickr
The views west when I reached Loch nan Caorach were shrouded in mist and I could only vaguely see the outlines of the Stack of Glencoul and the steeps slopes of Ghlas Bheinn and what may have been the sea. As I turned the corner to climb the unamed ridge that divides Loch nan Caorach from Loch an Eircill, the sun finally broke through and with it I could definitely see the deep blue sea beyond Loch Glencoul. So exciting was this I almost broke into song but not quite…. Where have all my tuneless tunes gone? Quite why I was so excited is a mystery as I also saw the sea on my last trip out but it was now a good deal closer and more substantial than the vague, thin grey smudge seen from Breabag. The view over Loch nan Caorach and Loch Glencoul was dranatic with the Stack of Glencoul looking well er stack like.
Loch nan Caorach by Seal54, on Flickr
Morning mist to the south by Seal54, on Flickr
Loch nan Caorach and the sea by Seal54, on Flickr
Out of the mist...Loch nan Caorach by Seal54, on Flickr
Turning my back on the sea I ascended the unnamed ridge. Across the head of Loch an Eircill the lower slopes of Beinn Leoid looked steep at the start but I was confident I would find a way. Increasingly fine views could be had down to Loch Shin with Ben Klibreck rising from the undulating terrain in the far distance and Gorm Loch Mor nearer to hand. The weather was now beautiful sunshine with a breeze to keep me cool and midge-free. Behind me the drama of Ghlas Bheinn and the Stack of Glencoul were now fully appreciable and I also could see Foinaven to the north.
Loch Eircill with Beinn Leoid rising above, Meallan a Chuail summit in cloud by Seal54, on Flickr
Loch Shin in far distance by Seal54, on Flickr
DSC_0398 The sea, The Stack of Glencoul and Fionaven by Seal54, on Flickr
Along the ridge looking down to Loch Shin, Ben Klibrech on the left by Seal54, on Flickr
Cloud clearing off Ben More Assynt, Loch Shinn far distance to the left, Foinn Loch Mor closer by Seal54, on Flickr
The Sea with the Stack of Glencoul in the middle of photo by Seal54, on Flickr
A slanting descent took me down to the peaty, damp glen floor. Mid way across a drier, higher spot and with a good breeze and warm sunshine gave a good spot to pitch my sodden tent to dry it out. This meant a longish lunch (oh yes!). My tent dried very quickly. I was getting through water though but there was no decent source nearby. I spotted a damsel fly but it didn’t stay around long enough for me to get a good look and attempt to id it. So far this trip my wildlife encounters had been of frogs and plovers (more of the latter today) and hearing rather than seeing deer but little else.
The steep climb out of the glen was not comfortable, I think I chose a bad line but it was very short and I was relieved to be out onto the easy angled lower slopes of Beinn Leoid. Somewhere along the way I managed to lose my pocket water-bottle (the 2nd I have lost on the watershed, annoying for the loss and the litter)
Ben More Assynt and Conival above Gorm Loch Mor from lower slopes of Beinn Leoid by Seal54, on Flickr
Meallan a' Chuail behind shoulder, Klibreck in far distance and Loch nam Breac Mora in middle by Seal54, on Flickr
All went well until Lochan Druim nan Eithreag. Here I could fill up my water, here I could have a dip. With only another 200m or so to the summit of Beinn Leoid I could also spend some time checking in with my daughter. There had been chat back and forward about not being able to make it to see my grandson in The Forth Children’s Theatre’s production of The Addams Family musical. By all accounts (and reviews) it was a fantastic production and SHOULD NOT BE MISSED. My daughter managed to get me a ticket for the Saturday evening show. It would be tight but if I could get a seat on the Durness bus to Inverness on Sat morning (I would not be able to catch Fridays bus), I could make it. Only thing was I couldn’t contact the Durness bus company. Eventually I sent a message. All this took time and the loch was really beautiful and an excellent campsite so despite the early hour and the very few miles I had put in, I decided to stay put.
Lochan Druim nam Eithreag by Seal54, on Flickr
Loch nam Breac Mora and view beyond by Seal54, on Flickr
DSC_0416 3rd camp by Seal54, on Flickr
I looked forward to a relaxing, midge free evening after my dip and if they ever put on a wild camping masterchef competition, I have the winning dish. 3 tablespoons (approx.) of my secret couscous mix (so secret, I don’t even know it so it’s never the same from one trip to the next) currently this features finely chopped up sundried tomatoes and stock.
Add water (add enough to make a thick stew),
half packet of Heinz instant tomato soup.
Bring to the boil and add bits of parmesan cheese.
remove from heat and enjoy the rich tomato flavour, the saltiness of the melting parmesan and slivers of sundried tomatoes.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME it is likely to taste vile but as I write this my mouth is watering. I followed with a pudding of hot chocolate, snicker bar and my last satsuma. Bliss. Bha mi cho sona ri bròig, although I am not sure how happy my shoe was. This is a recent acquisition in my lexicon of Gaelic expressions and its quirkiness appeals to my humour.
Perfect campsite by Seal54, on Flickr
I lay, looking over the loch and for a time it was wonderful and peaceful, I did notice a plane flying overhead and a short time later another one and I vaguely wondered if I was in the flight path from Europe (or UK) to America. Then they came minute after noisy, roaring minute and I realised that it was probably an exercise over Cape Wrath. Either that or the Russians were attacking. Eventually it halted and I hoped that they wouldn’t do any night time practise. Forecast spoke of thundery downpours in the morning. I was as well to make use of this idyllic spot, tomorrow could be wet and the final camp would be close to the A838.
I was woken by heavy rain on the tent and did not rush to start. I still I only had one more night camping and could manage a wet tent by using my bivvy bag to keep me dry inside the tent. For once I was able to breakfast as I broke camp but noted that 2 days of extended breakfasts had depleted my coffee supplies and I had little left for the next day. To the south the weather showed promise but the cloud was low down on the hills. A message from the Durness Bus company confirmed my place on the Saturday bus. I had said that I would be at West Merkland and this was apparently fine. When I let my daughter know she told me that she was glad that she had boughtme a ticket as they were now down to the last 4.
Farewell to my campsite by Seal54, on Flickr
Looking SE to Loch nam Breac Mora by Seal54, on Flickr
Following the Watershed was easier than the previous day despite equally poor visibility but I constantly checked as it does twist and turn a bit to the 729 point SW of the actual summit. There I made sure of my route by taking a bearing. The cloudy dampness meant that the boulders on the final approach were wet and slippery and slowed my progress considerably. Finally still in cloud, I reached the trig point of Beinn Leoid rather a long time after leaving my camp. I took a couple of photos into the cloud along the Watershed but with the cool breeze did not hang around although the sun at times threatened to break through. I headed down the broad shoulder along the clear walker’s path to Drocha Beinn Leoid.
No view of the watershed by Seal54, on Flickr
Beinn Leoid summit and trig point by Seal54, on Flickr
Extent of summit view by Seal54, on Flickr
The walkers path follows the Watershed by Seal54, on Flickr
This was the easiest descent of the whole trip so far and as I descended the cloud lifted and broke. Unfortunately, this made Mullain a’ Chuail look rather massive in front of me. It is only 42 metres lower than its neighbour but this difference is enough to shove it down the pecking order of classifications. The views to South with Ben More Assynt over the wild and wonderful Gorm Loch Mor (Big Blue Loch) and Fionn Loch Mor (Big Fin(?) Loch) reminded me of where I had come from and that I had finally put travelling through Ullapool behind me.
Meallan a' Chuail through the mist by Seal54, on Flickr
Across to Conival and Ben More Assynt by Seal54, on Flickr
At the col I decided that it was time for lunch and I needed some sustenance but found the wind was overly strong and cold so delayed putting up the tent to dry and didn’t hang around. One of my shorter stops on the trip. I attacked the climb up Mullain a’ Chuail with surprising energy and found that the boulders on the approach to the summit had dried off and were consequently a joy to scuttle across until horrors of horrors...
Now I know these creatures are much maligned and that Speilberg in particular is to blame for the bad press surrounding them but this one definitely attacked me and I found myself sprawling on my back, my fall fortunately cushioned by my rucksack. I waved my poles menacingly and this seemed to do the trick as it stayed stone still under its rock as I continued on my way.
A grinning shark by Seal54, on Flickr
Mullain a’ Chuail summit cairn is an understated small pile of stones almost overcome with woodrush. The views, however were magnificent with all the lingering cloud cleared away. Foinavon and Arkle to the north, Ben Hope to the NE, the Watershed hills across the A838, Ben Klibreck to the east, The long stretch of Loch Shin to the south east, Ben More Assynt and Conival to the South and neighbouring Beinn Leoid to the west.
Summit Meallan a' Chuail by Seal54, on Flickr
Ben Stack in the middle, Foinaven group to the right. by Seal54, on Flickr
The Hills ahead, over the A838 by Seal54, on Flickr
Summit Meallan a' Chuail by Seal54, on Flickr
Looking back along the Watershed from Summit of Meallan a' Chuail by Seal54, on Flickr
Beinn Leoid from Summit Meallan a' Chuail by Seal54, on Flickr
Looking back to Beinn Leoid Ben Stack to the right by Seal54, on Flickr
Mullain a’ Chuail may fall short of the height that would give it Corbett status but in my opinion it is a better mountain than its neighbour. That said in my aversion to steep descents meant that what once would have been enjoyable rocky steps became more anxiety inducing moments. I did not record which order I climbed this trio of hills from the A838 in early March 2014. I suspect I went to Ben Leoid first and then followed the Watershed mainly to Mheall a Fuar Loch (but passing to the south of Loch Cùl a Mhill). I have a memory of seeing swans on a high loch, probably Loch Dubh on the way to Beinn Leoid. My very brief note on the day states “Snow conditions on Mullain a’ Chuail made life interesting – cornices. Wind got worse on each summit”. Not so today as the wind had lessened and on one of the flatter sections of the ridge I stopped to have a more extended break and pitch the tent to dry it. The Watershed hills across the A838 looked steep but I would worry about them at a later date.
L-R Carn an Toinall Beinn Direch, Sail Garbh, Ben Hee and far right Ben Klibrech by Seal54, on Flickr
Looking across to Watershed over the A838 plus Klibreck on far right by Seal54, on Flickr
As I waited for the tent to dry, I was conscious again of feeling quite weary. I still had Meall an Fheur Loch to climb (approx. 150 m of ascent) then over Creag An Sgamhlainn before what looked like a difficult descent to the road. I had already decided to miss out the latter by descending NW to the stalkers path from Meall an Fheur Loch. Now, I decided to miss out Meall an Fheur Loch arguing that I had already done this part of the walk previously and in any case I wasn’t going to shorten the distance covered. It turns out that this act of cheating wasn’t going to be my worst crime on this trip.
Descent, Mullan a' Chuail by Seal54, on Flickr
The bumpy descent of Meallan a' Chuail by Seal54, on Flickr
Mind made up I packed the now dry tent and continued down leaving the Watershed just where it turned SE up the shoulder of Meall an Fheur Loch. The wind was dropping and I was aware that the midges may come out. I saw another damselfly (possibly a large red) and what I think was a Northern Emerald dragonfly, which if it was, was my first ever sighting. Lower down there were a number of Scotch Argus butterflies and I managed to capture a poor photo of one. I hit the road and with it the wind dropped away altogether and I just had time to cover my exposed parts with Smidge (other brands of repellent are available but I am a late convert) and cover my head with my midge net before black clouds of a’ mheanbh-chuileag surrounded me.
Looking back to Meallan a' Chuail from where I turned to join stalkers path by Seal54, on Flickr
Hills of the Watershed over the A 838 by Seal54, on Flickr
Arkle and Foinaven middle skyline from stalkers path by Seal54, on Flickr
Scotch Argus by Seal54, on Flickr
I walked up (south) the road towards Loch Merkland looking out for a decent campsite, not right on the road edge. A track heads off round the top of the loch which is not marked on the 1:50.000 paper map, nor on the 1:25 000 OS digital map but IS marked on the 1:50 000 OS digital map. This would have made a fine alternative route down off Meall an Fheur Loch and it would have been shorter than the way I came. I found a suitable pitch about 200 metres from the road. and under the steep descent of the Watershed. Still the midges clouded round me but another benefit of pitching all in one meant minimum midge invasion, that is until I actually entered the tent. I cooked my delicious tomato soup couscous outside then made everything ready to get into the tent as quick as I could. Before I did I squirted liberal amounts of smidge over my outer clothes (covered in live midge) and my rucksack. Brushing off the dead and dying, I had no mercy. Once inside the tent, I sprayed all remaining invaders with Smidge. I couldn’t have done this with a deet containing repellent as it would have dissolved my tent. Smidge’s active ingredient is Picaridin which also deters ticks and is safe to use on synthetics. I did remove 3 of the latter during this trip but suspect that I had missed the spraying the areas that the ticks attached themselves to.
Spot my tent amongst the drumlins by Seal54, on Flickr
My killing spree at an end, I settled down to eat my tea (covered to avoid the extra flavouring from Smidge). I have to say it was again delicious. No midges were left inside to bother me through the night.
The final morning dawned sunny and breezy so the remaining midges of the area could live to bite another day. I mixed my small amount of remaining coffee with hot chocolate to make it a bit more flavoursome, cleaned myself as best as I could, changed into my clean set of clothes and was packed and ready for the bus way ahead of its due time. When it came, the driver greeted me with a cheery smile. and I settled into a comfy seat. The minibus has a trailer for bikes -bikes must be pre-booked and passengers are advised to book ahead too. With no delays on my 3 subsequent trains, a quick shower at my daughter’s I made it to Broughton High School for the brilliant show by the Forth Children’s Theatre with just enough time to buy raffle tickets and a G&T at the bar. My luck held out and I won a bottle of gin in the raffle.
Can I complete the Watershed with my ever decreasing speed, who knows? Chan eil mi fallain ri fiadh. But then I know of no-one who is as fit as a deer.
If I have learnt anything (apart from the best camp food recipe and the wonders of Smidge) it is not to count the Watershed miles in advance. I did remember the remains of the couscous in the bottom of my rucsack. As far as my cheating goes, when I got back home I refreshed my memory of Dave Hewitt's account of this section and was pleasantly surprised to discover that he also missed it out. I have also been waiting for a knock on the door from the SPCM (Society for the Protection of Cruelty to the Midge) but they have to find where I live first and I suspect their numbers are few and their resources even less. Meanwhile the midge numbers are still sufficient, even with my intervention, for their important role in the biodiversity of the NW Highlands to continue.
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Date walked: 21/04/2023
Fionas: Beinn a'Mhanaich
Date walked: 28/03/2022
Date walked: 24/08/2021
Beinn Dearg (Ullapool), Eididh nan Clach Geala, Meall nan Ceapraichean, Seana Bhràigh
Corbetts: Beinn Enaiglair
Sub 2000s: Meall Liath Choire
Date walked: 31/05/2021
Sub 2000s: The Coyles of Muick
Date walked: 29/05/2021
A' Chailleach (Fannichs), Beinn Liath Mhòr Fannaich, Sgùrr Breac, Sgùrr Mòr, Sgùrr nan Clach Geala
Date walked: 14/05/2021
Fionas: Beinn Bheag (Letterewe Forest), Beinn nan Ramh, Groban
Date walked: 16/10/2020
Date walked: 10/08/2020
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