Bolstered by surviving the pre-big-birthday test of Beinn a'Ghlo, I looked around for a post-big-birthday outing which might stretch me a little bit further. Doing the munros east of Glenshee, I'd often gazed over at Lochnagar. I loved walking on the high plateau and The White Mounth seemed to offer more of the same - but the total distance for the circuit was still daunting. Studying the route and reports I looked for a way around this and decided I'd make it my first attempt at a bike'n'hike. I'd picked up a mountain bike from Gumtree earlier in the year with this vague intention. At £25 it was cheap, battered and old but still reasonably functional - much like myself!

The plan meant a variation on the WH route, cycling in to Glas-allt-Shiel, leaving the bike there to take the Glas Allt path up to Lochnagar, following the normal route round the other four munros before descending via the Corrie Chash path and looping round the head of Loch Muick to retrieve the bike. I calculated this would reduce the 29km walk to a 20km walk bookended with two 5.5km bike rides on a fairly level track. The difference might've been mainly psychological but this variation felt more doable to me.


After a ridiculously early start and a three hour drive, I got to the car park by about 7.00. The forecast was good. Clear tops, good visibility but with a gusty breeze which might intensify later in the afternoon. I hoped to be on my way down by that time so wasn't perturbed. I hauled the bike out and set off, determined to take it easy and save my energy for the ascent to come. The track was more undulating than I expected but the lochside views were lovely and it was an enjoyable way to start the day.


Bike safely locked up in the trees just before the bridge, I had a walk around the lodge before heading up the hill. I took the path behind the lodge marked on the OS maps.This seemed to be under repair and it soon veered to the right to join a much better - more recent? - path.


Once on this better trail, the walk up the gorge was an absolute joy. A nice steady ascent with the constant accompaniment of rushing water to the right and the spectacle of the falls up ahead. 200m gained without much effort and with a big smile on my face.




Once past the falls, a wooden bridge marked the next section of the walk - an even better path very gently following Glas Allt along the floor of the glen before beginning the final climb up toward the corrie rim and the summit ridge.


This was the point where I met the first of only two people I'd encounter all day. Descending, he warned that the wind was getting up on the top and I realised that the approach I'd taken had completely sheltered me from this. I braced myself and ran through possible alternative plans in my head if it proved too arduous.


In the event, as I headed toward and then past the cairn of Cac Carn Mor, it wasn't too bad. It was in my face at this point but that meant it would be at my back for the latter part of the route. It certainly wasn't strong enough to deter me exploring the edge of the corrie and enjoying the views of the buttresses, The Pinnacle and Meikle Pap beyond. I made a mental note to return at some point and come up that eastern approach with its famous views.




The summit cairn was impressive and the views amazing. It also provided a choice of spots to shelter from the wind for a bit and grab a snack. I was encouraged that the bulk of the ascent for the day was now done and I still felt good. The outlook toward the other munros was filling me with excitement rather than anxiety. All I needed now was for the sun to come out!


The walk across to Carn A'Choire Bhoidheach didn't take long and - like the hill itself - was fairly unremarkable. The name means 'rocky hill of the beautiful corrie' which evokes a dramatic and romantic image which the flat, featureless summit defiantly refuses to live up to.


Much more fun was exploring the rocky promontory of The Stuic - a few hundred metres north of CCB. This gave a great outlook across Coire Lochan nan Eun.


Rather than return to the usual path, when I left The Stuic I headed west and descended to the 1003m point before veering SW to take in the top of Carn an t-Sagairt Beag. With the wind at my back now I picked my way down the rocky slopes to the bealach on the way to Carn an t-Sagairt Mor.


The bealach was a bit boggy in parts but it was easy enough to navigate without disaster. The approach up the slope to CSM looked a bit steep but I knew it was only 50m or so and there was a narrow path to follow. About half way up something caught my eye off to the left. Investigating, I realised it was a small part of the Canberra wreckage from the 1956 plane crash.


I'd forgotten that this was 'that' hill and the surprise and remarkable condition of the metal made its incongruous position on this lonely hillside even more poignant somehow. Carrying on to the summit I passed more substantial pieces of debris higher up - including the large wing section - but it was that little section of riveted aluminium which stayed with me.


The sun finally came out on top of CSM and gave a really fine view across Glen Callater into the shadowy void of Coire Loch Kander. I remembered the spectacular day I'd had two years ago with Francis on Cairn an Tuirc and Cairn of Claise in perfect weather. The excited boy was now a grumbling teenager, but we were overdue another day like that.


I think James Coutts in one of his Scottish Munro Journey videos described the traverse from CSM to Cairn Bannoch as one of the easiest routes he'd ever done between two munros. And who am I to argue. It wasn't difficult but it was enjoyable. Good walking. Blue skies (at points). Wide horizons. I think it was at this point - with the last two munros within touching distance - that I started singing, slightly drunk on the altitude and isolation!


From a distance, I thought I saw someone standing at the foot of the rocky summit cairn but on arrival it turned out to be a fence post. I did notice that the stone beside it seemed to have a smiley face though. I wondered if I was going a bit mad, subconsciously craving company, anthropomorphising random objects and talking to myself.


I climbed - very carefully - up the boulders to the summit and enjoyed the view across Allt an Dubh Loch to the crags and waterfall but Broad Cairn was now tantalisingly close so I didn't linger long before climbing - very carefully - back down the boulders and rejoining the path.

Still feeling pretty good, I decided I'd detour south a little from the path and take in the top of Cairn of Gowal - it seemed rude not to somehow. But before I could do that I was slightly startled to be overtaken by the second - and final - person I'd meet that day. An energetic young woman travelling light and obviously much faster than me. I hadn't even noticed her coming up behind. I hope she didn't have to endure any of my singing or shouting at the clouds! After a quick chat - I think she may have been checking on my mental health - she zoomed off toward Broad Cairn while I made my detour.


By the time I reached Broad Cairn myself, she had already been and gone. I navigated - very carefully - the rather daunting boulder field to the fine rocky summit and took in the 360 degree views.


I sat down for a while, refuelling, and raising a toast with Irn Bru. Five munros in one day - and it had been a day of enjoyment rather than endurance. I was feeling very pleased with myself. Proud even...


When I got up my legs felt a bit stiff and heavy so I picked my way - very carefully - down through the boulder field knowing that a tired descent can often be the most dangerous part of a route. I felt a flood of relief when the boulders finally gave way to the beginning of the path - and it was at exactly that moment that I stumbled and fell over!

Typical! I thought on my way down. As it turned out, 'bloody typical' might've been more accurate. My left knee took a bash but my outstretched hands stopped any more serious impact. However the granite surface is incredibly abrasive and I managed to tear skin from several fingertips on both hands. I hobbled down the path a bit and sat down to sort myself out. Opening my rucksack I realised I'd made the basic error of packing my first aid kit at the bottom.

My hands were streaming with blood as I pulled stuff out to get to the kit. Then it took half an hour to clean and tape each wound. By the time I was sorted, the rock I was sitting on was like a crime scene - blood splatter everywhere. The rucksack looked like a prop from a Tarantino movie. What an idiot!


Anyway, embarrassed more than damaged, thankfully, I cleared up all my medical debris and belatedly headed down. The Corrie Chash path was easy to find but quickly became steep and very loose in parts. Given what'd just happened, I descended super-cautiously trying not to be distracted by the great view down Loch Muick or the helicopter which was buzzing about (ferrying rocks for path repairs, I think).


Once at the water's edge it was a pleasant stroll across the boardwalks and beaches at the head of the loch before coming back to the trees - and the bike - at Glas-allt-Shiel. Maybe it was adrenaline from the fall, maybe it was because I was focussed on the pedalling rather than the view - but the cycle that had taken nearly 40 mins that morning took only 25 mins on the way back.

All in all, a pretty memorable day - for all sorts of reasons!