Two Fionas and a sub2k Marilyn in Cowal
Fionas: Beinn Mhór (Cowal), Cruach nan Capull
Sub 2000s: Cruach Neuran
Date walked: 06/07/2021
Following the recent redefinition of the Grahams, I’ve dug out a report, originally posted on Scottishhills.com in 2021, of a couple of walks in Cowal, one of which combines the Fiona, Cruach nan Capull with that of the infrequently-climbed sub2k Marilyn, Cruach Neuran. As both of these are now Grahams, the report might be useful to anyone looking to bag both of these Cowal hills in a single outing.
Fiona: Beinn Mhor
Date: Tuesday 6th July 2021
Who: Just me
Weather: Sunny and humid
Strangely, after all the years I’ve spent walking the hills in Scotland, I’d never been down into Cowal, only clipping the northern margins on Cnoc Coinnich and Cruach nam Mult. Time for a visit.
Rather than make the long journey via the Rest And Be Thankful, I drove round to Gourock to catch the Western Ferries ferry to Hunter’s Quay at Dunoon. It’s worth noting that one can get discount multi-journey tickets either on-line (with a postal delivery, so you need to be able to plan your initial trip in advance), or from a couple of agents in Greenock and Gourock. As I’d made a last-minute decision on visiting Cowal, I stopped at the Co-op at 21 Eldon Street in Greenock to buy a 2-journey ticket. No prior booking is required for the 40-vehicle ferry, so I just rolled up at about 0730, joining a small queue. It wasn’t long before we boarded for the 20 minute crossing.
Over on Cowal, I parked at the end of the public road in Glen Massan [NS116867], and walked along the unsurfaced road to Glenmassan farm.
Carn Ban from Glen Massan
An Creachan
Just beyond the bridge at Glenmassan a forest road rises up to the north (right); this provides a steady climb into the forest round a few switchbacks. A short, level section leads to a further rise and switchbacks, before the road becomes a track and exits the forest steeply up a wide grassy ride.
Walkers Welcome sign in the forest
Forest ride exit from trees
Followed an ATV track for a short distance before it swung away westwards, at which point I meandered up the pathless grassy slopes to reach the south-west ridge of Beinn Mhor where there was another (or possibly the same) ATV track. The ascent of the ridge was just a pleasant climb with improving views.
Beinn Mhor from the south west
Looking down SW ridge to Loch Tarsan
Beinn Mhor from the SW ridge
At the summit, the highest Fiona in Cowal, a slight breeze kept the midges at bay, but in those moments when it dropped, the little darlings instantly came out in force. Views were a little hazy, but it was interesting picking out familiar peaks from an unfamiliar angle. I visited a couple of nearby outcrops which looked to be of similar height to the trig point ... but weren’t.
Summit of Beinn Mhor
Creag Tharsuinn – another Cowal Fiona
Ben Cruachan range
Ben Lui
Beinn Ime (centre) and Ben More (right)
Ben Lomond
Ben Ruadh (left) and Beinn Mhor’s south ridge
Cruach nan Capull and Sgorach Mor
Arran and Loch Tarsan
Paps of Jura
A distant, hazy Beinn Talaidh and Dun da Ghaoithe on Mull
Mackerel sky
Retraced my outward route back to Glen Massan, having taken careful note on the ascent where the exit from the forest was located.
Siskin and blue tit at road end
Fiona: Cruach nan Capull
Sub2k Marilyn: Cruach Neuran
Date: Thursday 15th July 2021
Who: Just me
Weather: Sunny and hot
Having made a first foray into Cowal last week, I fancied another visit. This time my targets were the Fiona, Cruach nan Capull and the adjacent sub2k Marilyn, Cruach Neuran. Cruach Neuran, at 1991ft, just fails to make Fiona status, and appears to be a tough ascent whichever way it is tackled. To make a full day I decided to tag it on after climbing Cruach nan Capull, the col between the two being at about 1000ft.
Caught the 0750 ferry from Gourock to Hunter’s Quay, and then drove the short distance along the B836 to park in a large off-road area behind a passing place about 300 yards west of the entrance track to Corrachaive [NS100822]. There is a small parking area at the Corrachaive entrance, but this looked like it might be for private use, so I used the layby instead.
I took the unsurfaced road towards Corrachaive, but turned soon turned left onto a forestry road. Climbed the fence beside a padlocked gate, stepped over a stream, and then wandered leisurely long the forest road which rose gently up the Corrachaive Glen. The day was already warming up considerably.
Cruach nan Capull from Corrachaive
Cruach Neuran from Corrachaive
The key to the ascent of Cruach nan Capull from this direction is a forest track which rises onto Mid Hill. The start of the path through the forestry is about 200 yards (240 of my single paces) west of the where the forestry road crosses the Corrachaive Burn, being at the top of a rise on the road, and marked by a small cairn on the west of the road.
Cairn and start of forest track
The grassy track climbs steadily in a series of switchbacks through a tunnel of trees, providing welcome shade. In a few places it is a bit boggy, and in others trees have fallen across it, but these are either easily negotiated or bypassed. The track is easy to follow, and makes for a very pleasant ascent. Higher up the track makes a long rise northwards; persist with the track and eventually it breaks out of the forest. Close to its end it looks like a number of paths break left out of the forest; however, I continued to its end, though the trees were a bit denser hereabouts. At the exit point a piece of plastic tape had been tied to a tree, though, by the look of it, this may have done a while ago.
Forest track
Fallen tree
The grassy ascent along the crest of Mid Hill was easy, but the climb up a couple of ramps through crags onto Cruach nan Capull was pretty steep, and therefore hard work in the heat.
Cruach nan Capull from Mid Hill
White thistle
Herd of roe deer
Views from the small cairn were very hazy. The Arran hills floated on a sea of mist, but the Paps of Jura and Mull were immersed in a cloud bank that was settled along the west coast. Cruach nan Capull is credited in various guidebooks as being the most southerly Graham in the Highlands. Whereas this is true for the mainland Highlands, if the Highlands is more broadly defined as being north of the Highland Boundary Fault, then given that Dalradian rocks are found on the west coast of Arran near Dougarie Lodge and in an arc to the east (and are, therefore, by definition, north of the HBF), Beinn Bharrain has a more legitimate claim to that distinction. (The two Grahams on Jura, Beinn Shiantaidh and Beinn a’ Chaolais, are also both north of the HBF and further south than Cruach nan Capull). (Note added in 2022: The above comments also apply to Fionas).
Summit of Cruach nan Capull
Arran hills
Creag Tharsuinn, Sgorach Mor and Beinn Mhor
Beinn Bheula, Ben Lui and Beinn an Lochain
Arrochar Alps
After an early first lunch, I headed back down the steep north ridge and along Mid Hill. The col was a little spongy for a short distance, but nothing too bad, and the low density of trees meant that reaching the Cruach Neuran Burn wasn’t a problem.
Cruach Neuran from the slopes of Cruach nan Capull. My route to Cruach Neuran followed the obvious break in the trees along the Cruach Neuran Burn
On-going felling operations on the slopes of Cruach nan Caorach
Across the col to the Cruach Neuran Burn
Looking up the Cruach Neuran Burn
The climb along the tussocky west bank the Cruach Neuran Burn was helped a little by faint animal tracks between the forest and a dilapidated fence. Once clear of the trees, the going was easier on grass, heather and bilberry, with a profusion of flowers. One of a group of roe deer high on the hill barked out a warning.
Roe deer hiding in the long grass
Golden-ringed dragonfly
Looking back to Cruach nan Capull
Bog asphodel
Orchid
Mountain thyme
I wandered along some of the various crinkles on the ridge of Cruach Neuran, eventually reaching the summit which bears an aesthetic, stone-built trig.
Summit of Cruach Neuran south top (pt 587)
Cruach Neuran from pt 590
Summit of Cruach Neuran
Loch Striven and Isle of Bute
Cruach Mhor (near) and An Suidhe (far) wind farms
Arrochar Alps
Holy Loch
I descended back down the Cruach Neuran Burn, and, having previously had a look at its course on Google Earth and noted that it was clear of trees, aimed to follow it down to where it intersected the morning’s forest road. Below the point where I had joined the burn earlier, I stuck to the grassy west bank, as the east bank was covered in dense bracken. The west bank was steep-sided, but mainly clear of trees and bracken; a landslip was easily traversed. At a couple of places trees encroached to the stream, and so I had to cross over briefly. The last few yards were the worst, having to negotiate chest-high bracken. Earlier or later in the year, when the bracken isn’t high, the east bank might be worth investigation.
Looking down into the valley of the Cruach Neuran Burn
Landslip with fallen trees
Purple thistle
Looking up the Cruach Neuran Burn
Back on the forest road I headed east, and, soon passing the start of the forest path, retraced my outward route back to the car.
Fiona: Beinn Mhor
Date: Tuesday 6th July 2021
Who: Just me
Weather: Sunny and humid
Strangely, after all the years I’ve spent walking the hills in Scotland, I’d never been down into Cowal, only clipping the northern margins on Cnoc Coinnich and Cruach nam Mult. Time for a visit.
Rather than make the long journey via the Rest And Be Thankful, I drove round to Gourock to catch the Western Ferries ferry to Hunter’s Quay at Dunoon. It’s worth noting that one can get discount multi-journey tickets either on-line (with a postal delivery, so you need to be able to plan your initial trip in advance), or from a couple of agents in Greenock and Gourock. As I’d made a last-minute decision on visiting Cowal, I stopped at the Co-op at 21 Eldon Street in Greenock to buy a 2-journey ticket. No prior booking is required for the 40-vehicle ferry, so I just rolled up at about 0730, joining a small queue. It wasn’t long before we boarded for the 20 minute crossing.
Over on Cowal, I parked at the end of the public road in Glen Massan [NS116867], and walked along the unsurfaced road to Glenmassan farm.
Carn Ban from Glen Massan
An Creachan
Just beyond the bridge at Glenmassan a forest road rises up to the north (right); this provides a steady climb into the forest round a few switchbacks. A short, level section leads to a further rise and switchbacks, before the road becomes a track and exits the forest steeply up a wide grassy ride.
Walkers Welcome sign in the forest
Forest ride exit from trees
Followed an ATV track for a short distance before it swung away westwards, at which point I meandered up the pathless grassy slopes to reach the south-west ridge of Beinn Mhor where there was another (or possibly the same) ATV track. The ascent of the ridge was just a pleasant climb with improving views.
Beinn Mhor from the south west
Looking down SW ridge to Loch Tarsan
Beinn Mhor from the SW ridge
At the summit, the highest Fiona in Cowal, a slight breeze kept the midges at bay, but in those moments when it dropped, the little darlings instantly came out in force. Views were a little hazy, but it was interesting picking out familiar peaks from an unfamiliar angle. I visited a couple of nearby outcrops which looked to be of similar height to the trig point ... but weren’t.
Summit of Beinn Mhor
Creag Tharsuinn – another Cowal Fiona
Ben Cruachan range
Ben Lui
Beinn Ime (centre) and Ben More (right)
Ben Lomond
Ben Ruadh (left) and Beinn Mhor’s south ridge
Cruach nan Capull and Sgorach Mor
Arran and Loch Tarsan
Paps of Jura
A distant, hazy Beinn Talaidh and Dun da Ghaoithe on Mull
Mackerel sky
Retraced my outward route back to Glen Massan, having taken careful note on the ascent where the exit from the forest was located.
Siskin and blue tit at road end
Fiona: Cruach nan Capull
Sub2k Marilyn: Cruach Neuran
Date: Thursday 15th July 2021
Who: Just me
Weather: Sunny and hot
Having made a first foray into Cowal last week, I fancied another visit. This time my targets were the Fiona, Cruach nan Capull and the adjacent sub2k Marilyn, Cruach Neuran. Cruach Neuran, at 1991ft, just fails to make Fiona status, and appears to be a tough ascent whichever way it is tackled. To make a full day I decided to tag it on after climbing Cruach nan Capull, the col between the two being at about 1000ft.
Caught the 0750 ferry from Gourock to Hunter’s Quay, and then drove the short distance along the B836 to park in a large off-road area behind a passing place about 300 yards west of the entrance track to Corrachaive [NS100822]. There is a small parking area at the Corrachaive entrance, but this looked like it might be for private use, so I used the layby instead.
I took the unsurfaced road towards Corrachaive, but turned soon turned left onto a forestry road. Climbed the fence beside a padlocked gate, stepped over a stream, and then wandered leisurely long the forest road which rose gently up the Corrachaive Glen. The day was already warming up considerably.
Cruach nan Capull from Corrachaive
Cruach Neuran from Corrachaive
The key to the ascent of Cruach nan Capull from this direction is a forest track which rises onto Mid Hill. The start of the path through the forestry is about 200 yards (240 of my single paces) west of the where the forestry road crosses the Corrachaive Burn, being at the top of a rise on the road, and marked by a small cairn on the west of the road.
Cairn and start of forest track
The grassy track climbs steadily in a series of switchbacks through a tunnel of trees, providing welcome shade. In a few places it is a bit boggy, and in others trees have fallen across it, but these are either easily negotiated or bypassed. The track is easy to follow, and makes for a very pleasant ascent. Higher up the track makes a long rise northwards; persist with the track and eventually it breaks out of the forest. Close to its end it looks like a number of paths break left out of the forest; however, I continued to its end, though the trees were a bit denser hereabouts. At the exit point a piece of plastic tape had been tied to a tree, though, by the look of it, this may have done a while ago.
Forest track
Fallen tree
The grassy ascent along the crest of Mid Hill was easy, but the climb up a couple of ramps through crags onto Cruach nan Capull was pretty steep, and therefore hard work in the heat.
Cruach nan Capull from Mid Hill
White thistle
Herd of roe deer
Views from the small cairn were very hazy. The Arran hills floated on a sea of mist, but the Paps of Jura and Mull were immersed in a cloud bank that was settled along the west coast. Cruach nan Capull is credited in various guidebooks as being the most southerly Graham in the Highlands. Whereas this is true for the mainland Highlands, if the Highlands is more broadly defined as being north of the Highland Boundary Fault, then given that Dalradian rocks are found on the west coast of Arran near Dougarie Lodge and in an arc to the east (and are, therefore, by definition, north of the HBF), Beinn Bharrain has a more legitimate claim to that distinction. (The two Grahams on Jura, Beinn Shiantaidh and Beinn a’ Chaolais, are also both north of the HBF and further south than Cruach nan Capull). (Note added in 2022: The above comments also apply to Fionas).
Summit of Cruach nan Capull
Arran hills
Creag Tharsuinn, Sgorach Mor and Beinn Mhor
Beinn Bheula, Ben Lui and Beinn an Lochain
Arrochar Alps
After an early first lunch, I headed back down the steep north ridge and along Mid Hill. The col was a little spongy for a short distance, but nothing too bad, and the low density of trees meant that reaching the Cruach Neuran Burn wasn’t a problem.
Cruach Neuran from the slopes of Cruach nan Capull. My route to Cruach Neuran followed the obvious break in the trees along the Cruach Neuran Burn
On-going felling operations on the slopes of Cruach nan Caorach
Across the col to the Cruach Neuran Burn
Looking up the Cruach Neuran Burn
The climb along the tussocky west bank the Cruach Neuran Burn was helped a little by faint animal tracks between the forest and a dilapidated fence. Once clear of the trees, the going was easier on grass, heather and bilberry, with a profusion of flowers. One of a group of roe deer high on the hill barked out a warning.
Roe deer hiding in the long grass
Golden-ringed dragonfly
Looking back to Cruach nan Capull
Bog asphodel
Orchid
Mountain thyme
I wandered along some of the various crinkles on the ridge of Cruach Neuran, eventually reaching the summit which bears an aesthetic, stone-built trig.
Summit of Cruach Neuran south top (pt 587)
Cruach Neuran from pt 590
Summit of Cruach Neuran
Loch Striven and Isle of Bute
Cruach Mhor (near) and An Suidhe (far) wind farms
Arrochar Alps
Holy Loch
I descended back down the Cruach Neuran Burn, and, having previously had a look at its course on Google Earth and noted that it was clear of trees, aimed to follow it down to where it intersected the morning’s forest road. Below the point where I had joined the burn earlier, I stuck to the grassy west bank, as the east bank was covered in dense bracken. The west bank was steep-sided, but mainly clear of trees and bracken; a landslip was easily traversed. At a couple of places trees encroached to the stream, and so I had to cross over briefly. The last few yards were the worst, having to negotiate chest-high bracken. Earlier or later in the year, when the bracken isn’t high, the east bank might be worth investigation.
Looking down into the valley of the Cruach Neuran Burn
Landslip with fallen trees
Purple thistle
Looking up the Cruach Neuran Burn
Back on the forest road I headed east, and, soon passing the start of the forest path, retraced my outward route back to the car.
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vuirich
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