Cuber to Binairaix - Mallorca

Date walked: 17/05/2024

Time taken: 4 hours

Distance: 12km

Ascent: 50m

A bit of an amble this, but it makes a nice outing and can be easily added to. Walking this direction, you’ve about 850 metres of descent.
We got the Pollença bus from Port de Soller at 8.30. At a pinch you could catch this bus by getting the 7.30 from Palma, which reaches the port in 40 minutes. The Pollença bus dropped us about 50 minutes later at Cuber, which is just a car park at the end of the reservoir.
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You can see the highest point in the Balearics from here, but you can’t go there, it’s a military radar station.
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The path south west gains about 50 metres to the watershed. It’s a mixture of path and track and occasional donkeys. Mallorca’s not big on wild life. We didn’t see a lizard in a week. On this walk we saw a small raptor, some stonechats, finches, a raven and something which might have been a booted eagle or wishful thinking.
From the watershed we went down the path, crossing and recrossing a track which was being driven along by an old shepherd in a senile Toyota. We came to the serious attraction, the ravine of Biniaraix.
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It's easy to follow the track but it's also well signposted.
The write-up that I’d read of this said there was always a broad path but with some severe unprotected drops. I was in worried condition. It’s like one of these Scottish hill descriptions – there are no difficulties but the exposure is considerable. WTF! Exposure is the only real difficulty!
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Anyway, it was not too bad. I was deeply anxious. Gill, who’s more into horses than hills didn’t even notice. The one evil bit was an unprotected fifty metres which went round the inside of a gully that dropped about a hundred metres on the side. Going in, I could see the ledge on which I was coming out, looking just like a crease in the cliff. There was a helpful local sign saying danger, with a cartoon of a walker going over the edge. But it was ok, them old fears are only in your head.
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Just before this, we could have diverted to Es Cornadors at 950 metres which must be an amazing viewpoint. To be honest, it was more the thought of an extra 200 metres descent rather than the ascent that put us off. The paths around Soller are amazing, but you’re on stone the greater part of the time and a week of it hammers elderly knees.
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The drop down the path was fantastic. It has a history for at least 600 years, and how it snakes down what feels like a vertical prow is awe-inspiring.
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Finally, it emerged at Biniaraix and we’d an excellent lunch in the village before walking on to Soller for the return bus.

The route was quite busy, at least by Scottish standards. There were more coming up than going down. We did it on a Friday. From experience with Spanish hills, I’d think it’d be stowed at the weekends. We were passed by a dozen bikers on the steep bit, fortunately all within about ten minutes. Four were leathery gnarled guys, shouting a cautionary “Olé!” at every corner. You had to cram against the wall, but you’d warning and they were cheery. The rest were young, intense, hanging on the brakes, no warning and felt like a danger. Basically, electric bikes had got them to a place where they were a pest. Anyway, again the numbers would be greater at the weekend.
We used the guide ”Soller Mallorca. Walking between the sea and Mountains” which I think is out of print. I reckon if you were feeling your oats, you could combine this path with the climb to Portell de sa Costa, these are 11 and 12 on the map. There might be a path connection or you might have to do a couple of kilometres down the road from the tunnel to Cuber. It’d be a seven hour day with 900 metres ascent and not one for Summer.
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Activity: Mountain Walker
Pub: Hudsons, East Kilbride
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Place: Glen Affric
Gear: Altberg Boots
Ideal day out: Epic ridge walk

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Joined: Jul 15, 2011
Last visited: Jul 17, 2024
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