This beautiful waymarked circular walk explores some of the fine countryside around the town of Ballater. The route described includes an optional detour to the ruins of a sixteenth century tower house.
Waymarked paths, tracks and minor roads
Ballater is well served by buses running between Braemar and Aberdeen.
Old Railway station, Ballater.
Due to flood damage, there is currently a detour away from the river at Stage 3. Follow the signposted diversion.
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The walk begins from the car park in front of the restored railway station in the centre of Ballater (now painted green rather than the red in the photo); the route is waymarked in blue. Begin the walk along the main road in the direction of Braemar (turning right coming onto it from the station). It crosses what looks like a railway bridge but there has never been a railway here; the planned extension of the line to Braemar was abandoned as Queen Victoria objected to it running close to Balmoral. After a couple of hundred metres, turn left onto Invercauld Road in front of the old church with a tall spire; this is now a B&B. Then take the next right (waymarker post) and follow the road past some of Ballater's fine old stone houses.
Continue ahead as the road becomes a footpath; when it reaches a cross-roads with another lane, go straight across. The track now reaches the edge of an oakwood; take the right fork past the wooden barrier. This is the start of a delightful section as the path follows the planned line of the abandoned railway, running through the woods well above the wide and beautiful River Dee. The drop down to the Dee is quite steep in places; at one point the path crosses a small wooden bridge to avoid a steep slope. This spot is known as Postie's Leap; according to local legend a postman jumped to his death from here after being jilted on the night before his planned wedding. At the far end of the woods there is a wooden bench; a fine place to sit and contemplate the world as the river rushes below.
After some distance a fork is reached. Take the path that bears right towards the main A93 road. Just before reaching the road turn left to follow a track down behind the barns and sheds. At the far end of the farm turn right to cross a footbridge over the River Gairn. On the far side turn left and follow the river downstream, before veering right and coming briefly alongside the mighty River Dee. Pass through a gate and keep left, closer to the riverside once more.
Soon the impressive old Polhollick bridge is reached. This is a white-painted iron suspension bridge for foot traffic only, and was built in 1892 at the expense of Alexander Gordon of Kent - an exile from Ballater. Go through the gate and cross the bridge and continue ahead to reach a track; follow this to the left. The track heads into Dalliefour Wood - this may be a plantation, but the trees are native Scots pines.
The track runs for several kilometres almost dead straight but there are good views towards Craigendarroch, Ballater's oak-clad hill. The tiny but very cute cottage passed at one point was once the home of a renowned angler and poacher who, according to his own calculations, lived to be 124.
Another kilometre - passing fields often full of Highland cattle and keeping straight ahead at a fork - brings you to the road. The continuation of the waymarked walk goes left here, but if you wish to detour to visit the ruins of Knock Castle you should instead turn right. For the castle, follow the road for four hundred metres to where it bends left. Leave the road here and go straight ahead onto the rough track up into the wood. Ignore a branch off right and continue on the grassy track uphill. It soon meets a much bigger, stony track, with a first view of Knock Castle over to the right. Turn right up the track and follow it for around three hundred metres until level with the castle, where there is a large stile on the right hand side. Cross the stile to head across to the castle.
Maintained by Historic Scotland, this is a good example of a sixteenth century tower house. You can enter it through the door; clearly the lower floor was a vaulted cellar and the rooms were above - there were originally four storeys. The tower was the home of the Gordons; in a feud with the Forbes' family, all the Laird's sons were killed and he himself fell down the stairs and was killed when he heard the news. The elevated position give the castle fine views over the surrounding lush countryside. Return to the road and then head back along to where you reached it earlier, this time continuing ahead towards Ballater. The road crosses the Bridge of Muick at Bridgend cottages; go left here then take a signed path that runs parallel to the road on the right side. It soon returns to the road to pass a house, and then heads off to the right again. There are views across the road towards the stately Dee.
When the path slopes down to a track, turn right along it. At the next junction go straight across a track through the woods, then keep left (signed for Ballater). The path passes a massive memorial cairn and seat built to commemorate Sir Allan Russell MacKenzie, the 2nd Baronet of Glenmuick. At the next juncton turn left to head down to the road, then cross the final bridge of the walk to return into Ballater. This is the Royal Bridge, opened by Queen Victoria in 1885; it had several predecessors none of which seemed to survive the Dee in full flood, but thankfully this one seems built to last. Continue along the main street of Ballater to return to the start.
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