Old Town, Edinburgh

The Old Town is Edinburgh's medieval heart. It is centred on the Royal Mile which runs along the crag-and-tail from the Castle down to Holyrood Palace, and it is packed with notable architecture and fascinating history, being home to some of the world's earliest 'high rise' buildings.

Terrain

Streets and pavements; the Old Town is steep and there are many steps.

Public Transport

The walk described begins from Waverley, Edinburgh's main railway station.

Start

Waverley Bridge exit from Waverley Rail Station. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

Leave the station via the ramp up onto Waverley Bridge, a road linking the Old and New Town in the very heart of Edinburgh. Turn left along this and follow Cockburn Street as it swings first left and then right before joining the Royal Mile. Here turn right; this part of the Mile is High Street. Soon Parliament Square is reached, with St Giles' Cathedral in its centre. The buildings to the left housed the original Scottish Parliament. Immediately past the Cathedral in West Parliament square look out for a heart design set into the cobbles. This is the Heart of Midlothian - it marks the original site of the Tolbooth and as such was the site of public executions. A old tradition is to spit on the heart - said to give good luck.

Stage 2

Continue along the Mile onto Lawnmarket, with many tall old tenement buildings. All along the Royal Mile some fascinating side alleys - known as closes - lead off on either side and are well worth exploring. Look out for Lady Stair's Close; Robert Burns lived alongside here and just through the close is The Writer's Museum - a celebration of Burns together with Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. Famous quotes from Scots writers are set into the pavement. Continuing up the Mile, keep right at the fork by an old church which is now the Hub - the home of the Edinburgh Festival.

Stage 3

The narrow street passes between several attractions, including the Camera Obscura and the Whisky Centre, before reaching the grand forecourt area in front of Edinburgh's famous castle. During the festival, this open area is used for the famous Military Tattoo. At other times it offers splendid views across much of the city, as well as some fine statues.

Stage 4

Turn back to face back along the Royal Mile, and just before reaching it turn right down long flight of steps. This soon reaches Johnston Terrace; turn right along the pavement and after a hundred and fifty metres turn left down an alley with more steps to reach the Grassmarket. For centuries this wide street was one of Edinburgh's main markets for cattle and horses; today it is busy with students and pubs.

Stage 5

Turn left along the Grassmarket and fork left at the far end onto West Bow and Victoria Street. The colourful two-tier buildings and boutique shops make this one of the cities most picturesque streets. At the top end it meets King George IV Bridge opposite the National Library of Scotland. The street - like others in Edinburgh - is named bridge as it is actually high above the natural ground level, though with buildings on both sides this is not immediately apparent.

Stage 6

Continue down the street until a prominent modern building ahead - with a cylindrical stone tower. This is the National Museum of Scotland; the main displays are free and it is well worth a visit. Opposite it an alley leads to Greyfriars Kirk - and the grave of the famous dog, Greyfriars Bobby. There is a small bronze of Bobby opposite the pub named after him; he was a Skye Terrier who remained by his master's grave for fourteen years.

Stage 7

Head up wide Chambers Street alongside the Museum and opposite Greyfriars. If you have time to visit, it is worth heading up to the top of the modern tower which has superb views. The older part of the Museum has a magnificent Victorian hall at its heart which is worth a visit on its own account. Continue along Chambers Street until the major crossroads, where it meets South Bridge. Turn left up here.

Stage 8

Continue up South Bridge until you remerge on the Royal Mile at another big crossroads. This time turn right, downhill on the Mile, along High Street. The street narrows at John Knox House; the fiery religious reformer lived here in the sixteenth century. Today it houses the Scottish Storytelling Centre, whilst on the other side of the street is the excellent Museum of Childhood. It is possible to continue all the way down the mile to visit the modern Scottish Parliament and Holyrood Palace, but our route takes the next left turn onto Jeffrey Steet. Follow this, passing under North Bridge and past the City Art Centre on Market Street. Finally turn right onto Waverley Bridge and the start of the walk at the station.

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