On the remote northern coast of Aberdeenshire, looking out over the Moray Firth, lie three of Scotland’s most picturesque villages: Gardenstown, Crovie and Pennan. Gardenstown (locally known as the Gamrie) is much the largest of the three. A steep, steep road leads down through the modern part of the village to the harbour and the packed jumble of cottages which make up the old fishertown. A warren-like maze of alleyways, walkways and a narrow street connect the buildings and make this part of the village a fascinating place to explore. At the west end of the village there is a…