A fairly easy walk in north Lewis, past the peat cuttings of today's crofters to reach the remains of the traditional summer sheiling village of Filiscleitir where the dramatic clifftop ruins of a chapel can be explored.
Rough track, short coastal path, sometimes boggy
Bus to Lional (1.5km from start).
Parking area near last house Seilastotar, Sgiorgarstaigh.
If driving, turn off the A857 just before Port Ness, at Lional to head south along the B8015, continue straight ahead at the crossroads to the township of Sgiorgarstaigh. When the main road bends left keep on straight ahead and there is a small parking area on the left near the last house, take care not to block any turning areas or entrances. If taking the bus from Stornoway alight in the centre of Lional and follow the B8015 to the start point. Begin by walking south along the road which is now used primarily to access the local peat cutting areas. Great stacks of dried peats can be seen outside many Lewisian houses, a free source of heat involving many days of cutting, drying and stacking each year.
The road eventually deteriorates into a track at a group of summer huts, caravans and an old bus. Traditionally this area was used by local people for the summer grazing, when the women and children would move with the cattle to fresh pasture. Climb the track ahead and continue until a single hut is near ahead and turn left here to head directly towards the sea - there are infrequent waymarkers but you are heading for the ruined house on the clifftop.
The house was built by John Nicolson, a local man who emigrated to America, made his fortune and returned in the 1900's to build this property and the chapel just along the coast for the people using the summer grazings. There is a good view north to to the Butt of Lewis.
Head south east along the cliff top for a short way to reach the ruins of the chapel. Services were held at this cliff top spot until the 1930's with trawler crews among the congregation. This is also a good spot to watch for passing marine mammals with whales and porpoises sometimes sighted in these waters - the cliffs nearby are also a haven for nesting seabirds.
It is possible to continue along the coast following the Heritage Trail to Tolsta, however the route is long and wet underfoot and for this shorter walk the return is by the same outward path and track. Return to the ruined house and head directly inland, passing a hut on the left, to pick up the start of a boggy track. Turn right to head north west passing the modern huts to pick up the track and then road to Sgiogarstaigh.
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