The Brough of Birsay and Earl's Palace, Mainland

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This exploration of the far north-west tip of Orkney Mainland features rugged cliffs, a tidal causeway and centuries of history. Note: access the the Bough of Birsay is only possible within two hours either side of low tide. Tide times are available online - note these are GMT and so must be adjusted during the summer. There is a charge to visit the island in the summer months

Terrain

Concrete tidal causeway, grass/sand footpaths and surfaced roads.

Public Transport

Bus from Kirkwall runs along the A966 to Birsay (1.5km from start).

Start

Point of Buckquoy. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

If driving to the start of the walk park at the dedicated car park at Point of Buckquoy. If travelling by bus simply walk along the A966 towards Birsay and turn right to walk along the unclassified road to Point of Buckquoy. From the car park the route across the causeway is pretty obvious (unless the tide is in) so follow the steps down to the beach and cross the 240m causeway over the Sound of Birsay. Now uninhabited, the island has a history of occupation leading back to a Pictish fortress in the 5th century. The Vikings seized the island in the 9th century and gave it the name 'Byrgisey' which means 'fort island'.

Stage 2

The remains of a Norse settlement can be found at the top of the ramp leading up onto the island, as well as the ruins of a 12th century Romanesque church dedicated to Saint Peter. Some of this settlement was washed away by coastal erosion in recent years and has led to the construction of some subtle concrete reinforcement cleverly sculpted to resemble the natural sandstone. There is a small Historic Scotland museum and shop adjacent to the Norse village remains, where an admission fee should be paid in the summer months.

Stage 3

Go through the small gate behind this and out onto a grassy path. From here it is possible to ake the path directly over the top of the island to the lighthouse - or, better, follow fainter paths right around the island's clifftops. If doing the latter, faint paths lead first to a long, deep geo, and then climb higher on grassy slopes above the cliffs - ensure you stay safely away from the edge. Eventually the lighthouse is reached; only 11m high, it stands 52m above sea level thanks to the tall cliffs that make up the western side of the island. Built by David A Stevenson in 1925 it has an unusual design with a row of castellations atop the short tower.

Stage 4

The steep cliffs offer spectacular views, but also provide shelter and nesting sites for fulmars, guillemots, razorbills and puffins (look carefully to a grass ledge just below the lighthouse) during early summer. Continue around the cliffs, eventually losing height to return to the viking settlement. Head back across the tidal causeway to the car park.

Stage 5

From the car park a signpost indicates the grassy path to Skipi Geo along the northern edge of Point of Buckquoy. Follow this path above the dramatic rock formations to reach the geo in a sheltered bay. This natural harbour has been utilised since Norse fishermen became established in the area, and a reproduction turf-roofed fishermen's hut helps to set the scene nicely.

Stage 6

The depressions in the ground nearby are nousts - quite common on windswept Orkney to store boats. The path continues along the cliff top - signposted with brown arrow boards - offering panoramic views back to Brough of Birsay and beyond. Watch for a whale bone set atop a wooden post on the edge of the cliff which looks like a bird in flight.

Stage 7

The path turns right to head for the buildings at Banks. Go through these to reach a minor road, cross it and follow the road straight ahead. This meets the A966/A967 crossroads - turn right to head towards Birsay village and the Earl's Palace, a substantial ruin standing right next to the road. Turn left and follow the road to the entrance gate into the palace grounds. Earl Robert Stewart built the Earl's Palace in the late 16th century as much as a statement of power, wealth and royal ambition as a residence. A notorious oppressor of the local population the ground floor had no real windows, just slots to provide all-round musket cover.

Stage 8

The upper story was sumptuous, with long stately rooms and tall painted ceilings. Following Robert Stewart's death the building was only occasionally used and was deteriorating badly in at the beginning of the 18th century. Leave the palace and follow the unclassified road north along the shore to the start, passing Zanzibar Cottage of Top Gear fame.

Route: Phil Turner

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The Brough of Birsay and Earl's Palace, Mainland

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