Arran Coastal Way: 6A Lagg to Whiting Bay - via coast

Summary

This is the most challenging section of the Arran Coastal Way, involving difficult clambering over boulders to round the headlands of both Bennan Head and Dippen Head; do not underestimate the time these sections take to complete. Bennan Head is additionally not passable at high tide (the going at Dippen Head is also made even trickier at higher tide) so you need to check the times before setting off. Either or both of the two boulder headland sections can be avoided by taking the alternative inland route.

Grade

Bog Factor

3.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Boggy and rough shoreline paths; rounding each of the two headlands is over pathless, difficult boulder terrain.

Getting there

Start

Lagg Hotel, Kilmory .

Public Transport

Lagg, Kildonan and Whiting Bay are all well served by bus.

Start Grid Ref

NR955216

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Services

There is a hotel / inn at Lagg at the start of the stage and a bunkhouse, as well as a cafe. Part way through the stage, Kildonan also has a hotel. Whiting Bay has a wide choice of accommodation including hotels and bed and breakfasts, as well as a shop.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 15.25km / 9.5 miles
Time: 6 - 9 hours
Ascent: 85m (Profile)

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

From the hotel at Lagg, begin by heading east along the road. Just beyond this turn right onto a earth track - signed for Torrylinn Cairn - that heads uphill through mature woodland. Keep right at a fork, emerging from the trees and continuing along a grassy lane lined with bluebells in early summer. Soon the track curves left - and a gate gives access to the remains of Torrylinn chambered cairn - thought to date back 5,000 years. When the lane ends ignore the turning to the right and head along the path ahead between two fences.

Stage 2

Look out for a pedestrian gate on the right - an Arran Coastal Way marker indicates to turn down a path here. It emerges on a track; turn right along this and follow it down to the shore of sand and pebbles. Turn left here to begin the walk towards Bennan Head. Walking on the beach is easiest at first, but later the best going is over the sometimes wet grassy ground alongside. Any path is indistinct so it's a surprise to come to a large sign indicating a point from which it is '1.3km to Bennan Head, 4.2km to Kildonan'. Further on another sign indicates where the inland route turns off to the left - it is necessary to take this route if the tide is high or if you want to avoid the awkward boulder section.

Stage 3

Otherwise continue along the wet, grassy shore route, passing over a stile by a gate. Carefully placed rocks help avoid some of the wettest ground beyond. As the impressive coastal cliffs of Bennan Head are approached, the going becomes rockier. There is a waterfall reached just before the headland, and then the massive opening of the Black Cave is reached. The largest cave in Arran, it is 80ft high, 40ft wide and 100ft deep; early archaeologists claimed that arrow-heads found here indicated it was used in prehistoric time, and that later it was used as a place of worship, but the uncompromising boulder floor has led others to have their doubts.

Stage 4

Immediately after the cave the shore is impassable at high tide, and gives very tricky clambering over awkward boulders at any time. Eventually the going becomes easier and grass makes an appearance once more. The houses of Kildonan can now be seen in the distance, and the lighthouse island of Pladda is just offshore - in clear weather the peak of Ailsa Craig is visible further out to sea. Pass through a gate, and ignore a signed path off to the left for Auchenchew, continuing by the shore. Seals can usually be seen basked on the rocks at low tide, and the sharp-eyed may spot an otter.

Stage 5

Eventually a clear path leads to the first houses at Kildonan. Continue along a track and then along the coast road, passing the houses including an impressive brick villa with balconies and a tower. The next coastal section includes a long bouldery scramble around Dippen Head, although just passable at all but the highest tides some walkers may find this section difficult and it is not recommended during very high tides or stormy weather. There is a signed alternative before you reach the Kildonan Hotel at a parking area on the left in front of the old schoolhouse. (The signed path off to the left here enables you to switch to the inland route to avoid Dippen Head - whose boulders are even harder going than those at Bennan).

Stage 6

To continue on the coast route follow the road as it climbs up behind the Kildonan Hotel and campsite. Oppposite a grassy area often used for parking and just before the road heads further inland turn right down signed steps to return to the beach and shore and head to the left passing below the ruin of Kildonan Castle. The route along the shoreline becomes ever rockier and is often boggy in places as the cliffs of Dippen Head rise up in the distance.

Stage 7

Pass in front of the gardens of the houses at Porta Leacach on the rocky foreshore and soon the boulder field is reached. There is no marked route through here, and it takes great care and a lot of time to scramble over the large rocks below the impressive cliffs of Dippen Head.

Stage 8

Once past a waterfall the boulders soon come to an end and the house at the far end of Largybeg comes into view. After a short stony section it is a relief to climb up a signed path onto the grassy raised beach which is bright with wild flowers in summer, Holy Isle can be seen in the distance. Head along the grassy path to the big house, Trareoch, where the route goes along the garden fence back to the foreshore. Continue on the foreshore around the bay till past the house at the far end of the bay and then ascend steps to the cliff top.

Stage 9

At the clifftop turn right and cross the field and descend a path near the shore with great views of Holy Isle ahead. Follow this along the foreshore crossing a couple of stiles and a stream before a final stile and then steps lead up to the road. Turn right to follow the road for the short distance to Whiting Bay.

Next stage: Whiting Bay to Brodick - Waterfall Route
Next stage: Whiting Bay to Brodick - Coastal Route

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