Erraid, near Fionnphort

Summary

On a sunny day this short walk must compete as one of the most beautiful in Britain. Cross on shining sand to the tidal island of Erraid, the setting Robert Louis Stevenson's Kidnapped, and climb to the highest summit for stunning views to Iona and the many other islands. Check tide times first, walk is only possible at low tide.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Tidal sands (check tides before setting out), muddy paths, steep climb to Cnoc Mòr (optional)

Getting there

Start

Knockvologan.

Public Transport

None, nearest bus Fionnphort 4.5km from start.

Start Grid Ref

NM314203

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 6.5km / 4 miles
Time: 2 - 2.5 hours
Ascent: 132m (Profile)

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Explorer 373 - Iona

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Walk Description

User reports (3)

Stage 1

Erraid is cut off at high tide. To make the most of your visit and make sure you don't get stuck check the tide times first and aim to start about an hour after high tide to give long enough on the island. Take the road past the Columba Centre and free car park in Fionnphort. Pass the farm and campsite at Fidden where the road turns sharp left and continue until a white house. Look for a small off road parking area 100m further on the left. Walk along the road and pass the two barns before going through the gate straight ahead. Follow the track uphill and pass Knockvologan Farm and continue ahead on the stony track that leads down to the shore.

Stage 2

At the shore turn right to head north for a short distance across springy turf. There are usually vehicle tracks in the sand to lead the way to the grass. At a dip bear left to head onto the uncovered sand and then head right to follow the wide sandy gap between Mull and Erraid. It feels special to be walking on the wave-patterned sand that was only recently under the sea. There are often vehicle tracks to follow made by the residents of Erraid, and also hoof prints from the cows and sheep that make use of the low tide to cross between the two grazing areas.

Stage 3

Once through the sandy gap, bear left and keep following the sand around the corner and then eventually follow a faint path up onto the grass and aim for the front of the white cottage, passing a sculpture on a small headland on the left and then a boat shed. Today's residents of Erraid are part of the Findhorn Foundation community based in Moray. They live, garden and farm here and provide courses for guests. Follow the faint path around the coast, crossing the small streams on bridges and then picking up a clearer track that heads up from the beach towards the row of coastguard cottages. Climb a stile and follow the track below the impressive vegetable gardens, sheltered by the solid granite walls.

Stage 4

The track bears left and goes through a gate. Turn left immediately afterwards (the lovely buildings at the jetty can be seen down on the right) and just before the white gate which leads to the cottages turn right uphill on a rough path. This soon goes through a gate and becomes clearer as it reaches the quarry. Here the stone was quarried for the cottages and also the two lighthouses, Skerryvore and Dubh Artach, 15 and 28 miles out to sea from here. Pass the ruined house on the right and then turn left up a path to the right of a gully. Stone steps come down on the right, ignore these as they are part of the return route. Continue up the hill where the going gets rougher and very boggy underfoot.

Stage 5

Eventually the summit of Cnoc Mòr (70m) is reached, the highest point on Erraid, marked with a tiny cairn. From here there are fabulous views over tiny islets and to Iona, with the abbey clearly visible. Robert Louis Stevenson stayed on Erraid twice and used it as his inspiration for Kidnapped, as the island where David Balfour was shipwrecked and believes he will have to live out his days as a castaway before passing fishermen point out that he can easily walk ashore at low tide. From the summit go back down the outward route, heading for the low white tower, take the left path when the route forks to climb up to the tower.

Stage 6

This white metal building was used to communicate with the 2 offshore lighthouses and is now a useful shelter. The lighthouses were built by Thomas Stevenson's, Robert Louis' father. From here follow the stone steps back down to the main path and retrace your steps back to the coastguard cottages. Do not walk immediately in front of the neat cottages as this is a private area for residents and there is no way out at the far end. Instead turn left and then right to go through the farm gate and follow the track back to the beach and the tidal crossing to return to the start.

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