MacKinnon's Cave, near Gribun

Summary

MacKinnon's Cave is reckoned to be the longest sea cave in all the Hebrides. This short but challenging walk visits the cave, once regarded as one of the showplaces of Mull and visited by Johnson and Boswell. The coastal setting is superb but the walk crosses awkward slippery boulders and is only accessible below half tide. A torch is essential to explore the cave.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Boggy in places on approach to coast. The final short sections along the coastline involve some very awkward going across slippery boulders. This section is tidal so great care is needed to ensure you can visit the cave - and return!

Getting there

Start

Parking area near Balmeanach.

Public Transport

None.

Start Grid Ref

NM448333

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 3.5km / 2.25 miles
Time: 1.5 - 2 hours
Ascent: 130m (Profile)

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Explorer 375 - Mull East

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Walk Description

User reports (3)

Stage 1

Take the tarmac lane which leaves the B8035 just west of Gribun; after passing some houses there is a signed parking area on the right, well before the road ends at Balmeanach Farm. A map here gives information about the walk, which is only possible when the tide is at least half out; ensure you check the tide-times and preferably visit the cave when the sea is still receeding - otherwise you could become stranded. Begin the walk by continuing along the tarred lane to the farm, keeping to the left at a fork as signed and passing through a gate to climb a rough track to the left of a fence.

Stage 2

At a fence corner turn right to continue with the fence on your right. The path soon becomes very boggy but the worst can be avoided by walking along the stones which were once part of a drystone dyke. This wet section is short-lived and the going improves after a track joins which has run straight through the farm fields. Continue by the fence as it turns to the left; there are great views across the sea to Staffa, Ulva, Inch Kenneth and the distant but distinctive Dutchman's Cap. Go through an old iron gate on the right and head a short distance down a wide, shallow grassy dip, then continuing round to the left.

Stage 3

There is a view along the dramatic coastline to the west, the centrepiece being a high waterfall. The path soon descends a ramp leftwards to reach shore level; the ramp is rocky near the top but the gradient is not too steep. Head across the bay; part of the cliffs on the left have collapsed into two gigantic blocks. Continue until just after a low section of cliff that falls straight onto the beach but then, rather than continuing for long through the very awkward boulders nearer to the waterfall, head up a little to the left to reach a grassy area. A path traverses this just above the lowest rocks and beach boulders before descending to reach the foot of the falls.

Stage 4

The next section is flooded by the sea for at least half of the day. Continue round or over the slippery boulders to reach an inlet immediately past the waterfall. The gaping entrance to the great cave is now on your left. A torch is essential if you wish to explore; the cave is twisting and 500 feet long - no daylight at all penetrates to the far end, so with your torch off you cannot even see your hand in front of your face. Other than that the floor of the cave is fairly dry though stony and the roof is mostly very high.

Stage 5

Boswell and Johnson came here in 1773 on a trip that also included a visit to Staffa. Though they had only a candle, they measured the dimensions of the cave using a walking stick. They also noted - with some amusement - a local legend that a piper and his dog were lost in the cave. Only the dog emerged - terrified, and without its hair. Stories of a lost piper have attached to many caves around the Hebridean coastlines. Return the way you came - hopefully with enough time left to beat the tides!

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