Diabaig Coastal Circuit
TORRIDON, SHIELDAIG AND KINLOCHEWE
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1. Park in the small car park just before the pier in Diabaig village. This is a beautiful and peaceful spot, with the green fields, cottages and picturesque old fishing boat contrasting sharply with the rugged and rocky southern shores of the bay. The walk begins by heading to the end of the road and going through the gate of Cadhanahearba cottage. Turn left immediately through another gate, with a blue footpath sign. You'll soon reach a small barn; the path bends right here and ascends through the attractive woodland. Watch out for the word 'Path' painted on a rock; this indicates where the route climbs up a rocky section. There is one awkward step up on a slimy rock which is made easy by the provision of a rope placed to provide a handhold. Beyond this, the path heads right again and passes through a gate in a deer fence. After traversing round a little further, the route heads very steeply up a grass and rock gully for some distance in order to pass above an impassable crag. The path then traverses above the crag on a comfortably wide ledge, unseen from below; the views are spectacular.
2. Towards the end of the shelf the path forks; keep right, as the left branch merely ascends to reach a tall, smooth slab of rock popular with rock climbers. The path now descends slightly. You may notice another, smaller path with some cairns heading round the bay to the right; this is an optional detour out to Araid but is very rough and boggy and not really recommended. Instead continue on the main path which begins to climb again towards the Bealach Mor.
3. Once at the bealach, the path curves round to the left, passing close to two small Lochs, Loch a'Bhealaich Mhoir and then crossing a stream to pass Lochan Dubh. This section is quite boggy in places. At the far end of this second loch, the path begins to descend again, with a wonderful view ahead of Shieldaig across Loch Torridon. A pretty white cottage, reached only by this path or by boat, nestles in the bay below to complete the picture.
4. The walk doesn't visit the cottage, but keeps well left of it and starting to ascend once more. The path climbs up behind the ruins of an old croft, with one or two rocky sections, before beginning to level off and passing through a gate in another deer fence. Some distance further on, after passing round the next corner, there is another truly magnificent view, this time of the head of Loch Torridon. The path now descends slightly and traverses the steep slope of the Leacan Bana, which sweeps down into the sea.
5. Towards the end of this section the path forks. Both forks eventually lead to Wester Alligin (Alligin Shuas on the map). We took the left fork, which is the one marked on the Explorer map. The path crosses a level section of moor before the crofts can be seen ahead, with attractive beechwoods. The path now runs left alongside a fence until it reaches a gate, which it passes through. Descend on the path into the beechwoods.
6. The path becomes less well trodden in the woods but leads back out into the open ground where it fades out. Contour past a couple of ruined crofts, aiming to keep just right of an occupied bungalow; the tarmac road is reached just beyond. Turn left up it the reach the Torridon – Diabaig road at a T-junction a short distance further on. Turn left here.
7. The road crosses a cattle grid and then bends right uphill. After just less than a kilometre, as the road curves back to the left, look out for an old footpath on the right; it is reasonably well-trodden and has lines of stones along each side. This is the old route to Diabaig and cuts out a wide zigzag on the modern road; it continues straight ahead and then climbs more steeply by a small stream to regain the road. Keep to the tarmac over the top of the pass, the Bealach na Gaoithe, passing a small lochan. Shortly after the lochan the old path heads off left down a clear valley to reach the head of Loch Diabaigas Airde. Once at the loch it becomes boggy and ill-defined, and you must pass through a fence before sloping back up to the road. It is easier to stick to the road.
8. Continue along the road, passing Loch a'Mhullaich. At the far end of this loch, turn left, keeping on the loch side of the fence. There is a footbridge over the river right by the fence, which is hard to see until you reach it. Cross the bridge and follow a now clear path through a gate in the deer fence. This now heads downhill to Diabaig, traversing the left side of the impressive Allt an Uain gorge into Corrie Craggie. The path soon veers left a little and descends more directly towards the village, with wonderful views. Lower down, it passes through a gate in an old dry stone wall to reach the barn passed at the start of the walk.
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